This all started two Saturdays ago when I was at a float fly....more than a handfull of gentelman asked me when I was going to get an autogyro to fly off of water. First, I thought they were nuts and then I thought, "Why not!"

Since I have built 4 DAG's, I figure it would be a perfect platform. I didn't want to just attach floats on a exsiting DAG so I decided to build a new frame and the pylon on my DAG-R2.

I started this last Monday and it went together quick. I used some E-flite 25 size floats and I think they are perfect for the job. A little heavy, but they look great. I had to not use there landing gear....so here's the beginning.

I put on a OS.28 first on the nose but the hang angle was enough, so I ended up putting on my trusty Saito .56 off my DAG-R2.

Next I put it in the water just to see where it would sit on the step. I was still able to move my floats forward or back.

To my surprise, it was very stiff when I pushed it left and right and forward and back. It seemed like this actually might work.

Also a nice advantage to the DAG is I can lean the blades back to get them to spin up.

Here's some pics with the Saito . 56. Increased my prop from 9 to 12 inches so hopefully I won't have problems with the water in the prop!

Thank goodness the kids have water in there pool!

Today...all systems are go!

My plans are taxing it around the water and just see if the motor pulls it down into the water. If so, I'll have to shift the floats forward and add some tail weight probably. We'll see.

Final weight....5lbs 7 oz. A little heavy for a DAG but it should still work!

Joe,

That is just too cool! Looks awesome.

Mike

Very cool.

Your model boat is neat too...any specs?

Nice one Jodini! Have you decided to omit the rudderlets?

Joe,
Fantastic ..I love it

I think you may benifit by using Aerobalsa blades on this one to give you the extra lift at 5lbs 7oz is rather heavy (the 60 is only 4lbs heavier!) ...I no you will take no notice and just go out there and try anyway ...Good Luck and try not to roll it
I am excited about this


Well done

Regards Rich

Hi Joe,
That is pretty cool! I have the utmost confidence in your creation.......that being said; do you have access to a boat? Can't wait for the videos Joe!
Regards,
-Mike

Originally Posted by Boneswamped

Hi Joe,
That is pretty cool! I have the utmost confidence in your creation.......that being said; do you have access to a boat? Can't wait for the videos Joe!
Regards,
-Mike

Boneswamped....you're killing me! I'm going to take off and do a loop with this thing, since I missed my chance with the RPG! O.K...new rule, first one to loop a gyro with floats wins! (inside joke)

Thanks guys for the excitement.

Let's see.....questions in order.
1. Puget Sound Flyer - It's a standard DAG - R1 (with a lot of extra weight)
2. pluriel - I'm going to leave off the rudderlets. I'm still thinking about adding a single rudder below it like most float planes.
3. Safelandings - Let me try the DAG blades first and then I'll try the AB. I love the AB blades but here's my thinking. I transfered all my settings from my DAG - R2 to this model. I'm hoping I get a level takeoff at the beginning and no surprises. I know it will feel heavy...that's what the SAITO .56 is for... She's going to probably fly fast to keep her flying!
4. And last but not least Boneswamped - YES, I NEED A BOAT! I think I'll just go to the lake with a 20 bucks in my pocket and hire someone on the spot to retrieve my sub!

But one step at a time. I want to taxi it around on water first....I'll take a video camera! Hopefully tomorrow!

P.S. And anytime Mike Smith says he likes my project, that makes my day! Thanks Mike. I might be calling you for some new blades!

Holy moley.........we have created a MONSTER!!! Man! We can't leave alone for a few days and look what you got yourself into!!!! I think it looks great Joe. I can't wait for some video!!

The weight issue: I have flown at 5.5 lbs with the blue and white one I used to have with AB blades. In the begining, I used to use a brick pack of lithiums that was pretty heavy and it flew with that but I never weighed it. You may have to bull back the stick through the turns. Just go nice and easy.

Good luck my friend!!!

Dave

I put it back in the pool and leaned it back and forward. When you go past 45 degrees forward, it goes down quick....like a sub! When you lean it back...well it's impossible to tip back...which is nice to know! I would rather it be that way...now the question will be what will it do with power! Only one way to find out!

Hi Joe,

That's a real beauty!

I remember seeing a picture many moons ago of a Cierva on twin floats like your layout. I think they were longer overall. I 've put the kettle on and will get on the case, certainly being longer in the front will help prevent nose over. You could be looking in the order of 'clown shoe' proportions, for stability, especialy with regards to the motor down thrust. The high centre of drag in the vertical, 'Z' axis will combat the nose over but I guess the changing dynamics from static, spin up, powering forwards then rotating the head aft for lift off, will be akin to a sack full of monkeys going to a Mongoose convention!
You certainly enjoy a challenge mate, love your work, laters.
regards Al

AL! Great to see you out here again! Hey look "imsofaman"...rotorheid is back!

If you can find pics of that Cierva....link me to it. I would love to see what's going on!

Once again...good to see an Aussie out here again!

Hi Guys,

Joe, I couldn't find the picture I was thinking of, it was a 'Avro Sea Rota' a
license built version of the Cireva C30a, Wikipedia gives quotes on 10 built plus one on twin seaplane foats, sorry no more info at this time.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avro_Rota
Read the line above the Production information.

Do you have an elevator on your Aqua DAG ? I see a third servo under the mast, AMT? That will help, the floats may need to project forward by a prop diameter distance from the current position, hope that makes sense to you, I would just try it, once you have completed your float mods. Alternatively make a 'old style' set of three with flat bottoms, the front pair going rearwards only to 1" behind the vertical datum, where you have the 'Step' now, a la Sopwith Schneider, easy build as they are square section and all flat surfaces. Good Luck, cheers,
regards to all, Al