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Old Nov 07, 2009, 03:15 PM
MFR
just a ordinairy guy
Netherlands
Joined Sep 2008
365 Posts
As promised the video of my completed static diplay, enjoy

Rigging of my VIIC part 2 (2 min 16 sec)


Greetings Manfred.
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Old Nov 08, 2009, 12:40 PM
Registered User
Bucharest, Romania
Joined Sep 2009
19 Posts
Manfred,

there is only one word that can describe your work: “impressive”!

Thank you.

Bogdan
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Old Dec 23, 2009, 10:41 AM
MFR
just a ordinairy guy
Netherlands
Joined Sep 2008
365 Posts
It has been a while, but i started the works under the waterline, first thing on my to do list is to make the horchgerat at the bow.

Because the positions of the listening elements are differend all the way made a paper mould of it.

Turned the crosses into circels, cutted the holes out, and placed the mould back on the hull.

The result is the positions where the elements are coming, next step will be to make some tools to stamp the circels out of plastick card

Greetings Manfred.
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Old Dec 26, 2009, 03:04 PM
MFR
just a ordinairy guy
Netherlands
Joined Sep 2008
365 Posts


This is the result after placing the parts, tried to imitate the piezo elements with a small dental cutter.

Also made a start with the weldingslines, first collected enough info for drawings and pictures.



Made first the central weld on the saddletank, then i divided the rest on the saddletank, glued it with CA glue bit by bit, then removed all not needed parts.









First thing to do is to seal the weldlines with paint, then i can start with the next serie of weldinglines and start making the grids that are placed at the bottompart of the saddletank.

Greetings Manfred.
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Old Dec 26, 2009, 05:39 PM
RC sub dude
CaptainNemo12's Avatar
Montreal, Quebec, CANADA
Joined Nov 2004
301 Posts
Great job as always Manfred! What type of string are you using for the weld lines?
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Old Dec 27, 2009, 03:54 AM
MFR
just a ordinairy guy
Netherlands
Joined Sep 2008
365 Posts


I'am using this fishingline for the welds, some guys at our dutch forum gave this as a advice.
The problem with normal string is, after glueing you have to sand it down to get it smooth, the string i use has a special fibre and the sanding is not needeed.

Also started with the inlets at the underside of the saddletank, first took some measurements and drawn it on copper plate.

Cutted al the bars needed to make 4 pieces.

This is the result after soldering, still have to smooth everything down with the dremel.

Smooth everything down an cleaned the new part, the aim was to get one where you could look through.

She will be placed at the bottom of the saddletank, have to make three more, and some other kind of inlets.

Greetings Manfred.
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Old Dec 27, 2009, 06:07 AM
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Horseman's Avatar
The Netherlands, FR
Joined Aug 2008
627 Posts
Hello Manfred,

Thats takes a lot off work off your back by using the vising lines instead the little rope I used for the welding lines, we discussed that matter last time when we met each other with Toneburst at the Sea bottum Subseal 2009 in Holland and it will get your Sub to a even higher standard than it already is

Then your work on the brass filters for the saddle-tank seawater inlets are very impressive.

Greetings,

Jan.
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Old Jan 02, 2010, 09:56 AM
MFR
just a ordinairy guy
Netherlands
Joined Sep 2008
365 Posts
Still working on the weldinglines, one side is already finished, the weldingslines and the inlets are sealed with paint.



Working at the lower set of weldinglines.





Placing the inlets at the right position, i first had to outline the inlets and took the cutter to place the frames nearer to the hull.



This was the unpainted endresult, had to correct some places with filler and sanded it down.

Made a vid to show the entire boat, due to the length it's nearly impossible to get it detailed on picture.

Rebuild under the waterline (3 min 12 sec)


This spring i want to spray the underside all over, gives me the time the finish the other things i want to place during the winter refitt.

Greetings Manfred.
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 11:38 AM
MFR
just a ordinairy guy
Netherlands
Joined Sep 2008
365 Posts

Removed the diveplanes and protectors from the rear, everything is fastened with M2 screws, so you can replace parts when they are damaged.

Did the same with the front divingplanes.

Removed the profiles of the divingplanes, the problem was, that after 20 years the glue started to get loose.
By means of a small knive there were easely removed.

The same story with the front diveplanes.

After cleaning all parts the glueing started with 2K glue, repeated this for al components.

Same story, same glue.

After using filler and a lot of sanding it became like this, ready to be painted.

I'am now in the process of remaking the rear protectors, in the background allready made the left example ready for the filler, the right one has to be worked with the dremel.


Greetings Manfred.
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Old Mar 06, 2010, 10:45 AM
MFR
just a ordinairy guy
Netherlands
Joined Sep 2008
365 Posts
It has been a while, but here is the new update.

Finished up the front diveplanes and the protectors.

Also finished up the rear diveplanes, complete with the modification to hoist the divingplanes.

The assembled endresult of the rear diveplanes and rudders, still have to modify the place of the anodes, they are placed wrong on the divingplanes.

The endresult of the front diveplanes, have to place one set of anodes more onto the diveplanes.


Made the system for replacing the diveplane protectors much easier, can take them of during transport.

Greetings Manfred.
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Old Mar 22, 2010, 10:01 AM
MFR
just a ordinairy guy
Netherlands
Joined Sep 2008
365 Posts
This will be the last job for this winter, i came across a picture about the loadingdevice for the torpedo's.

The crew can build it up from seperate pieces, in the next serie of pictures i'll show the proces of building.








This was the first step for the loading device.
The next one was to build the table on which they place the torpedo for loading, it was a bit tricky because you need to solder everything together, and still keep all the other soldered parts in place.



First i made the ribs that support the table from copper plate 1 mm.



Placed the central spar and soldered the ribs under a straight angle and devided them all over the main spar.



Made a dryfitt to see if everything still fitts.



Made the other spars on both sides of the table, after this i could solder everything together without the risk of loosing already soldered parts.



A dryfitt with the dummy torpedo, from drawings i could see that the angle for loading was about 30 degrees.





Since i want to use it for display only i can take it apart.



The finished endresult after painting, complete with the wooden blocks that guide the greased torpedo during loading.
The only consession i made was that the real thing can slide together, since i want to take it of the boat this version will be more robust.

Torpedo loadingsystem scale 1:35 (2 min 1 sec)


This is a extra bonus, i was wondering if i could make it functional, it doesn't move a lot but it's still funny to see.
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Old Mar 24, 2010, 08:40 PM
just a modeler
BK 1125's Avatar
LA
Joined May 2008
368 Posts
Just the best Manfred. My favorite VIIC model of them all.

Steve
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Old May 10, 2010, 01:58 PM
MFR
just a ordinairy guy
Netherlands
Joined Sep 2008
365 Posts
It's been a while but i made the first testtrail after the new paintjob, still have to test some things, but i want to do this step after step.
My wife shot some vid's of the testtrials, enjoy.

testtrail of the boat. (7 min 23 sec)



Greetings Manfred.
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Old May 10, 2010, 10:00 PM
Registered User
Philippines
Joined Jan 2005
831 Posts
Greetings MFR.

Can you tell me more about your ballast system. At the beginning of this thread I see a pressurized air bottle and also a snorkel device. Are you using a hybrid system to blow your ballast tank (gas/snort) or is the snorkel just used to recharge the onboard gas bottle?

Can you post a close up photo of the snort head. I see a float valve mechanism. I'm interested in knowing how it's constructed.


Redboat
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Last edited by redboat219; May 11, 2010 at 09:33 PM.
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Old May 11, 2010, 01:31 PM
MFR
just a ordinairy guy
Netherlands
Joined Sep 2008
365 Posts
Hello Redboat,

I use compressed air, made by a automatic onboard compressor, using valves to get her underwater.
The snort i use for getting the last water out of the ballasttank, more or less i use this for fine tuning during the last stage of diving.

On the left side of the snort head you can see the outlet for the water, normally they would use this for the diesel exhaust.

This is the floatvalve system i use, the left valve will close the valve that regulate the dive at the first stage, there is a second valve connected to the snort mast that does the same, i can steer this one by my transmittor open or close at any time.
The right one is the inlet for the compressor, by diving the boat this one will stop the compressor and seal of the boat from the water.
There is a safetydevice, when the pressure of the air is to low i cannot dive, only by getting more compressed air it will release the valves.


Greetings Manfred.
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