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Old Sep 21, 2010, 02:18 PM
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Castor does blend with gasoline and kerosene above about 40F, it will separate below. Add ether and there is no problem.

Castrol R is castor oil. Castor oil is not used in turbine engines.

Mineral is OK, but try to find SAE40 or 50 non detergent oil. Castor is about SAE50 in viscosity.

Greg
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Old Sep 21, 2010, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Gluehand View Post
I wouldn't be surprised if this turns out to work just fine...diesels are, in many ways, quite non-critical, and tall inlet manifolds are rarely a source of trouble, particularily if you don't intend to squeeze the last rpm's out of the engine, anyway...
And this experiment could be done without modifying anything...
You have whetted my appetite again Glue'
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Old Sep 21, 2010, 03:30 PM
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Thanks for all of your input guys.

It look like I have enough ingredients to 'give it a try' and see if I get any success.

I'll just have to decide the balance of ingredients, as it seems there are many trains of thought on this. My preference initially is to run with the oil content on the upper side, I can put up with the mess and want to have plenty of lube around those old joints.... sounds a bit like my knees these days!

As Glue says i'm not looking for the last drop of power, just want to be able to run the old engines for now. Then I'll make a decision on usage in the future.

thanks again chaps!
sparks
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Old Sep 21, 2010, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by sparks59 View Post
You have whetted my appetite again Glue'
Yes, why not give it a try....

One thing came to my mind, though:
I've heard rumours (of which's certainty I'm not sure...), that some PAW's have 'sub piston induction', i.e. when on TDC, the piston skirt opens a small slot to the atmosphere, seen through the exhaust port. If so, there's no chance to get stable throttling properties.
However, the old PAW that I mentioned above, did not feature SPI, as well as the more modern ones that I have now.....so this may be just a 'rumour'.

I thought I'd just mention this...it's easy to check.

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Old Sep 21, 2010, 10:03 PM
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As to venturi heights/lengths etc, I think this is completely non-critical. I ran my AM15 with a neoprene tube over the standard venturi, connected to an Enya barrel carb mounted on the cowling side - length must have been about two-and-a-half inches (well it was November) and it worked a treat. Don't expect 1200 rpm tickovers on these small diesels though.
Key to success I think would be to ensure NO air leaks, eg. mastic the NV and use o-ring keepers on the tubing joints. Then, getting a good steady head of suck would actually improve matters at the remote RC carb (I see OS are extolling the benefits of a long intake venturi, albeit upstream of the Atomiser).
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Old Sep 21, 2010, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Chas View Post
As to venturi heights/lengths etc, I think this is completely non-critical. I ran my AM15 with a neoprene tube over the standard venturi, connected to an Enya barrel carb mounted on the cowling side - length must have been about two-and-a-half inches (well it was November) and it worked a treat. Don't expect 1200 rpm tickovers on these small diesels though.
Key to success I think would be to ensure NO air leaks, eg. mastic the NV and use o-ring keepers on the tubing joints. Then, getting a good steady head of suck would actually improve matters at the remote RC carb (I see OS are extolling the benefits of a long intake venturi, albeit upstream of the Atomiser).
Great stuff Chas! The neoprene tube sounds like a good starting point to try before getting into any miniature engineering work! I seem to recall that long inlet tracts on carburetors have the effect of increasing mid range / torque but reduce the power output a little, anyway, it's one to try out.
cheers, sparks
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Old Sep 21, 2010, 11:08 PM
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Remote needle valves became a fact of life on nitro engines to get fingers away from the props. I have never sen any complaints I remember specifically.
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Old Sep 21, 2010, 11:38 PM
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Speaking of sub-piston induction,
I had a thought on the weekend about my throttle equipped ED Hunter.
I knew it had SPI and never expected great throttle performance, an expectation which was fully met!
100% revs maintained down to about 5% opening after which it went to an unsteady burp...burp...burp.
Lot's of character, but not very useful for cruising around.
This 1954 short cylinder, long shaft Hunter had about 1.5 mm SPI.
Looking at my two other Hunters:
1950 finned head - about 0.5 mm SPI.
1958 green head - much less than 0.5 mm SPI.
So I swapped the carb onto the green head and the difference is amazing - not exactly linear throttling, but it has a mid range.
Installed in plane (enlarged Bugaboo), just waiting for some flying time.
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Castor oil is not used in turbine engines.
If you re-read Greg, I said Turbo-prop and I could go into a long explanation to qualify this.

Regards Ian.
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Circlip View Post
If you re-read Greg, I said Turbo-prop and I could go into a long explanation to qualify this.

Regards Ian.
A link would be fine.
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry wilson View Post
Remote needle valves became a fact of life on nitro engines
We're not just talking about remote NV here though, we're talking about remote RC carbs. For example, many OS engines use a remote NV mounted on the backplate, but this just allows a regulated amount of liquid fuel to run down a pipe to the spraybar which is in the "normal" position in the crankcase venturi. The mixture we recommended on the AM15 deal has already been converted into Eau d'Macclesfield at the remote location, and is then sucked into the engine down our wide-bore neoprene venturi. The original NV is removed, and the orifices blanked off.

C
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Old Sep 25, 2010, 01:01 PM
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what diesel is this ?

A gentleman in the UK sent me these pictures of 2 of his diesels.
Yes, a real photo, not an EFile!
The Frog is an easy ID.
What is the other diesel? Perhaps a "one off".
The crank case appears to be bar stock.
Judging by the size of the NVA, maybe a 2.5 cc?
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Old Sep 25, 2010, 01:49 PM
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Perhaps a "one off".
I think it is....it certainly looks home made. Sometimes you can spot a detail or two, indicating more advanced machining work etc...but not on this engine, as far as I can see...
There are many plans around, of diesels just like this one, e.g. the German plan below.

It might also derive from one of several plans, published in the "Model Engineer's Plans Handbook" along the years....

Well, that's my guess...
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Old Sep 25, 2010, 02:05 PM
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I agree with you guys, it sure looks to be home made or low build number engine, very similar to the German plan Gluehand posted.
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Old Sep 25, 2010, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Circlip View Post
As Patmcc says, mineral oil would work, but if you're going down the Jet -A route, Castrol -R is a vegetable oil like castor, and I remember that oil with the same smell as "R" is used as a lubricant in turbo-prop engines.

Used to be a "Thing" in WW1., the pilots with the blackened faces from the oil blowback, had the permanent "S***s" due to the Castor.

Regards Ian.
I bought a few gallons of Castrol M many years ago. I am still using it in all my fuels, glo & diesel and if you can get it it is a great oil to use.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/secti...027099#7094387

My understanding is that Castrol "M" is "degummed" Castor oil and it certainly does not gum up or varnish over as pure Castor oil tends to do.
As far as I know Castrol "R" is a blend of synthetic and pure Castor oil and apparently does tend to gum up as well, but to a lesser degree than pure Castor oil....
There was a lot of marketing (and probably still is) "vagueness" about any descriptive blather as to exactly what these products contained mostly due to the fact that that saying they were "Castor oil" put them into the Food Safety categories and all kinds of testing and certifications were required etc.
By calling them "Castor based" and "Synthetic" they could bypass the stringent food saftety regulations.

If you cannnot obtain any of the Castrol oils or Castor oil even any of the oils sold at the hobby stores for glo will work just as well.

As for Ether, if you cannot easily get any, then try the John Deere products, Farm & Tractor suppliers will have the "easy start" type of products in aerosol cans (and John Deere is apparently 80% ether, the rest is oil).

If you can get these then after freezing the cans punch a hole in the bottom and catch the liquid in a bottle and use this in your diesel mix, the oil content will not make much of a difference.


Mark
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