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Old Sep 17, 2010, 03:05 PM
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In England, engine powered flying was banned during WWII. Maybe rubber also. British modelers were not happy that modeling, with engine powered flying, went on in the German occupied areas all during WWII. Most US manufacture of engines was suspended during WWII.
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 04:00 PM
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OTOH there were tons of surplus machine tools and suitable metal stock available just afterwards..parachute silk too..and dope..and a huge interest in aircraft.
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 07:20 PM
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what a wonderful collection of Ed’s

Gluehand, what a wonderful collection of Ed’s. You said “…the Taplin Twin ... I once had it "grunt" a little…” Just one or two, it did it fire up for a few revs? What size prop? The green head is the 3.5cc X 2 or about .42 cubic inch. What is the red head TT? I thought it was closer to a .49, so what ED engine was used, or am I just dreaming? I looked at an Indian copy of the TT, red head, about 30 years ago in Toledo, asking $100 US. I guess I should have taken it, as I never got a second chance later on. Keep them oiled and they’ll last forever.
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 07:45 PM
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local diesel fuel mix

Chas offered me a little golden diesel nectar, but I never took him up on his kind offer. Listening to what many of you are telling me, I went to my local CTC (store in Canada) and bought kerosene ( $8/ 4L and starting fluid about $5 /can), The Castor came from Sky Craft (LHS). Being in a hurry and not overly precise, I just mixed up equal parts using a 200 mL bottle and poring each into a metal can.
I test ran the brew in a Cox .09 with a DD head. An 8x4 wide blade gave a steady 10,200 rpm, peaked out at 10,300, so I backed off the compression to run at 10,000 rpm. Easy to start, steady run and really oily. So, the bottom line, get the larger RC diesels going and try a few different blends.
Lastly, as mentioned above, where do you find the time? I guess you just have to make it at the expense of something else. Who really cares whether or not the grass gets cut, or the windows get washed?
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Old Sep 18, 2010, 03:28 AM
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I think i'll have to have a look around some of the auto shops to see if I can find the easy start. I've not seen it here though, not something used very often in desert locations! ;-)

I met some guys yesterday and I asked them if they had seen diesel fuel for sale..their initial response suggested DERV, I couldn't believe that they had never heard of diesel MIC engines. Now I have to find ingredients and show them what a real engine is like! ;-)
That is if the DC Merlin and PAW 1.49 will run after 35 years in a box.
- course they will I hear you all say!
sparks
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Old Sep 18, 2010, 07:08 AM
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Mt Evelyn, Melbourne, OZ
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Hi RyanNX211,
Scan for Irvine 20 as requested (copy to your email as well).
Regards
Warren
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Old Sep 18, 2010, 08:14 AM
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looking for a taifun hurrikan. is it sold? Let me know!

Hi my name is Lars Vidlund, living in Sweden. I´m looking for a nice Taifun Hurrikan, use to have 3 copis of this nice engine it in the late 60´s unfortunatelly I sold them all in the 70´s. I´ve started with this nice hobby again! Let me know if there is one for sale!
Best Lars

Vintagesoundster@gmail.com
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Old Sep 18, 2010, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
What is the red head TT?
Saw one recently for sale in UK and the red headed version was billed as 15cc, the green headed original was billed as 6.8cc.

Regards Ian.
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Old Sep 18, 2010, 09:58 AM
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Canada, ON, Hamilton
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Taifun, nice little diesel

These come up now and again, and we all know where.
1957 Taifun Hobby RS 0.98 cc Diesel Engine .
This engine was manufactured by Hans Hoernlein in Germany and distributed by Johannes Graupner.
Technical data: Bore 10.7 mm, stroke 11 mm, total combustion 0.98 cc and power 0.1 Hp at 15,200 rpm.
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Old Sep 18, 2010, 11:16 AM
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United Arab Emirates, Abu Dhabi, Abu Dhabi
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Hi Guys,
I have been out today looking for potential sources for fuel.
I would be grateful for any comments or help that you guys may be able to offer!

1. Castor oil, available but only small bottles found so far. Could I substitute with mineral or synthetic oil?
2. Kerosene, should be available. Is lamp oil based on kerosene? As that easy cheap and readily available locally
3. Ether/Ethanol. The only thing I have found so far is antiseptic disinfectant which contains 70%v/v Ethyl Alcohol ... I'm sure that this doesnt have the required oomph, but comments welcome.
4. I found starting fluid, but only in spray can form, which I can imagine will be difficult to accurately mix with other fluids. It contains di-ethyl ether, which sounds more like the proper stuff, and other hydocarbons.

I also found the following...none of which appear suitable but...
Methyl ethyl ketone 35
Xylene
Denatured alcohol - Meths spirit
VMP Naptha
Turps
Toluene
Acetone
Any thoughts?
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Old Sep 18, 2010, 12:45 PM
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The windy west coast of Sweden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnAV8R View Post
…the Taplin Twin ... I once had it "grunt" a little…” Just one or two, it did it fire up for a few revs? What size prop? The green head is the 3.5cc X 2 or about .42 cubic inch.
Ok, maybe a little more than a 'grunt'....
This engine came to me almost 30 years ago, having spent many years as a 'collector's item', i.e. all screws were loosely tightened, and there were no gaskets, except for the remains of the cork seal of the exhaust manifold.
An extra set of prop driver + spinner nut (good, but most likely home-made) came with the engine...that's why the original green anodised parts still look new...
I was eager to hear it run, so I hastly made some paper gaskets, hooked on a wood 13x5 (as I recall) and started flicking (which has a strange feel, as there are 2 TDC's on 1 turn...). It did start quite easily though, but the run was very uneven, no matter what I did to adjust it. Quite soon I discovered leakages at the backplate + one cylinder foot....my home-made gaskets were obviously too thin, or I should have used some sealing paste (too much hurry..).
During these attempts, the top of the carb came loose too (the part where the needle is threaded in). As I understand, this part is meant to be an interference press fit into the carb housing, maybe even crimped, but this was not the case, as the vibrations made it slip out. I guess some lock-tite would have done a good job here.
I didn't proceed though...I dismantled the engine, gave it a good wash + some oil, and to this day, no more has happened...



In the beginning
The 'original' TT's are the aircooled 7 cc (.42ci) green head model, and the watercooled 8 cc (.49ci) red head one. These were sold side-by-side.(catalogue photo below)

Following steps
It is a bit beyond my knowledge, but I beleive that an 8 cc (.49ci) air-cooled red head model, was introduced at a later stage, as well as the aformentioned 'big one' of 15 cc....the story & chronology of this, I have yet to learn though....

The later, Indian TT's
As far as I know, they were all red anodized, and there were some variations of head and cooling fin design, and maybe more....i.e. these engines are quite easy to distinguish from the British examples.
Rumour says the Indian TT's were good though...


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Old Sep 18, 2010, 12:56 PM
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The windy west coast of Sweden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparks59 View Post
I also found the following...none of which appear suitable but...
Methyl ethyl ketone 35
Xylene
Denatured alcohol - Meths spirit
VMP Naptha
Turps
Toluene
Acetone
Any thoughts?
The 'VMP Naphta':
If (and check this up befire trying!) this is the kind of crystal clear naphta, that is used for washing paint brushes, thinning of certain paints etc.....this is a good substitute for kerosene (it IS, in fact, almost kerosene).
I have used this for decades now...great stuff.

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Old Sep 18, 2010, 02:16 PM
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amherst,nova scotia,canada
Joined Nov 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnAV8R View Post
Chas offered me a little golden diesel nectar, but I never took him up on his kind offer. Listening to what many of you are telling me, I went to my local CTC (store in Canada) and bought kerosene ( $8/ 4L and starting fluid about $5 /can), The Castor came from Sky Craft (LHS). Being in a hurry and not overly precise, I just mixed up equal parts using a 200 mL bottle and poring each into a metal can.
I test ran the brew in a Cox .09 with a DD head. An 8x4 wide blade gave a steady 10,200 rpm, peaked out at 10,300, so I backed off the compression to run at 10,000 rpm. Easy to start, steady run and really oily. So, the bottom line, get the larger RC diesels going and try a few different blends.
Lastly, as mentioned above, where do you find the time? I guess you just have to make it at the expense of something else. Who really cares whether or not the grass gets cut, or the windows get washed?
Gotta be a john deere tractor dealer in your area. Their starting fluid is both cheap and contains the highest concentration of ether of any quick star fluid I understand. About eighty percent in fact.

As for the good castor oil the most convienient is to phone around to various automotive speed shops. Or have a hobby shop bring in some for you if the price is favorable. I think mine was sig by the gallon. May be available by quarts too but I do not know.

I have no ideal on any ignition improver in Canada easily available but have not checked. At 2-3 percent I have just enough to meet my needs over time I hope.

Purchased it from Eric Clitton the p.a.w. retailer in the states and had it shipped to an american drop point I had established just over the border years ago. I was a little suprised at the price of kerosene reciently. Not a big issue just suprised.
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Old Sep 19, 2010, 08:21 AM
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Canada, ON, Hamilton
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what's at the store for possible use in model diesel fuel ?

Sparks59,

1. Castor oil, try SIG , or Klotz, see previous old post for synthetic oil?

2. Kerosene, should be available. Is lamp oil based on kerosene? Yes, just check to make sure it does not have unwanted additives (ie. to mask the smell)

3. Ether/Ethanol. The only thing I have found so far is antiseptic disinfectant which contains 70%v/v Ethyl . This is no good, contains 30% water.Ethanol is alcohol, and the ether must be di-ethylether.

4. I found starting fluid, but only in spray can form, which I can imagine will be difficult to accurately mix with other fluids. It contains di-ethyl ether, which sounds more like the proper stuff, and other hydocarbons.
Cool or freeze the can. Invert the can and “spray” out the propellant, use an opener to make a hole in the can and quickly pour out. Yes, John Deer has the tractor starting fluid.

I also found the following...none of which appear suitable,
Correct- Not Suitable
Methyl ethyl ketone 35
Xylene
Denatured alcohol - Meths spirit
VMP Naptha
Turps
Toluene
Acetone
Any thoughts?


Search the following for more details

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naptha

Naphtha .In petroleum engineering, full range naphtha is defined as the fraction of hydrocarbons in petroleum boiling between 30°C and 200°C. It consists of a complex mixture of hydrocarbon molecules generally having between 5 and 12 carbon atoms.
Naphtha is used primarily as feedstock for producing high octane gasoline .

Kerosene, also known as paraffin in UK and South Africa, is a combustible hydrocarbon liquid, not to be confused with the much more viscous paraffin oil used as a laxative.
It is also less volatile than naphtha, and is closer to light diesel fuel (carbon chain length)
Kerosene is widely used to power jet-engined aircraft (jet fuel)
It is obtained from the fractional distillation of petroleum between 150 °C and 275 °C, resulting in a mixture of carbon chains that typically contain between 6 and 16 carbon atoms per molecule
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Old Sep 19, 2010, 08:30 AM
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Canada, ON, Hamilton
Joined Oct 2005
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TT, what an engine!

Circlip, that’s for confirming the TT, 15 cc. Much bigger than I guessed.

Gluehand, sounds like you’ve got a real jem in your green head TT. Since it is Loose and well oiled, perhaps you could get us a few more pictures. Maybe a peak in the back or with one of the cylinders removed to show the rod and crank?
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