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Old Dec 04, 2009, 07:32 AM
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gkamysz's Avatar
Chicagoland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gluehand View Post
1. The diesel incident:
When bench running a Super Tigre G15RV diesel, I tried a home made silencer, which was badly designed, in the way that it allowed the accumulated burnt goo to run back into the engine, after it had stopped.
This is actually a well known problem with muffled diesels. The corrosion is caused by ignition improvers in the fuel. The nitrates produce acids that if aren't removed will cause damage. A muffler tends to collect oil and you experienced the result first hand.

http://www.eifflaender.com/instruct.htm

Look at #15. They recommend this to allow the engine to ventilate.

I've never seen an engine damaged by castor. In fact the best ones to buy off ebay are the ones covered in castor. I picked up an atrocious looking FS-40S that was said to have low time. It went cheap. After washing the castor out it was essentially new.

Are there and MPJet .061 users out there? I have a couple but haven't used them. We ran up a friend's engine last week and man did that howl. it's the loudest diesel I've ever experienced. of course it was propabaly turning 18-19kRPM with a small prop on it.

Greg
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Old Dec 04, 2009, 08:09 AM
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Gluehand's Avatar
The windy west coast of Sweden
Joined Sep 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gkamysz View Post
This is actually a well known problem with muffled diesels. The corrosion is caused by ignition improvers in the fuel. The nitrates produce acids that if aren't removed will cause damage. A muffler tends to collect oil and you experienced the result first hand.
That's a fair suggestion Greg, BUT I didn't use any ignition improver at all ...so as I see it, the spotlight is still on that kerosene...()



Quote:
Originally Posted by gkamysz
I've never seen an engine damaged by castor. In fact the best ones to buy off ebay are the ones covered in castor. I picked up an atrocious looking FS-40S that was said to have low time. It went cheap. After washing the castor out it was essentially new.
I'll sign on that ! I bought (unseen & very cheap) an OS FS60 open rocker, and received it as a brown lump in a plastic bag....after some treatment it was like new...and additionally, it turned out to be the early version with alloy rockers + machined head & carb...
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Old Dec 04, 2009, 03:31 PM
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Mt Evelyn, Melbourne, OZ
Joined Dec 2008
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Hi Greg,
I have one of the MP Jet 061 BB's , just starting to build a 70's aerobatic design for it (I chickened out on a flat-out racer). Bench running is very impressive on a 7x4, I expect it will be ballistic on something smaller. I am not too horrified by the noise, the muffler seems to work OK (maybe it was because I had just been playing with a Russian KMD - boy is that loud!).
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Old Dec 04, 2009, 08:22 PM
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Canada, ON, Hamilton
Joined Oct 2005
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Cleaning up the old burned on oil residue can be done by soaking the engine in a container of diesel truck engine oil high in detergents. As Chas mentioned, a heat gun can help.

If you are in no rush, leave the engine to soak for a few months.
I use car engine oil (DG, MM, designations) as “after run oil”. It’s cheap and keeps everything free.
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Old Dec 04, 2009, 08:30 PM
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Canada, ON, Hamilton
Joined Oct 2005
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Parra 2.5 diesel

PARRA 2.5 diesel

The specs on this engine are better than the ETA.
Just maybe, it might be best to leave the muffler off it. All the above notes point to Corrosion .

See what fuel is used.

http://www.clubtamaran.com/INSTRUCCI...20D%20ingl.pdf

* Displacement 2,49 cc *Power 0,45 hp/ 18.000 rpm *Weight 160 gr
The new PARRA 2.5 diesel engine was designed for all aeromodellers who love diesel engines.

RUNNING IN
The engine is accurately fitted and adjusted at the factory, so it requires a relatively short running-in period of about 3 to 5 runs of 5 minutes each, allowing it to cool down between runs.

The recommended mix is: 20% Castor Oil, 33% Diethyl Ether, 45.2% Kerosene and 1.8% Ethyl Nitrate or DII.

FIRST FLIGHTS
It is very important to not overwork or force the engine during initial flights. Set compression to avoid darkened exhaust oil colour. Never black! Darkened exhaust oil indicates overcompressed condition, which generates excess heat and load on the parts.
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Old Dec 05, 2009, 09:50 AM
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Canada, ON, Hamilton
Joined Oct 2005
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“Has anyone here ordered one of those Indian Mills that was mentioned a few weeks back? If so, what is it like? “

Tag1260, that was on another thread.

Check out post #442 for sale, and
#472, Chas seems happy. Ask him.

Lastly, post #475. Here's the replica, and under a $100 US. My email contact was great. The service was excellent. Contact Gao Guo Jun at
csmodels@citiz.net

This little replica is no “slag” engine. It appears to be well made.
Replica engines are just that.

See post # 530 from Chas. The Mills used a special process to treat the metal resulting in a 400 hour life expectancy, kind of like a little Rolls.

I guess it all comes down to what you want or need. For a collection to look at, for a collection to say, “I have an original”, or just to have!

If you want to fly with the engine, and you want it to run well, be easy to start, and give good service, only you can make the choice.

Look at “JETT” engines. There’s quality there; too bad they don’t offer a diesel.
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Old Dec 05, 2009, 10:34 AM
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JackHiner's Avatar
Joined Jan 2005
702 Posts
I have had problems with Mills 1.3 cc needle valves holding a setting. So I modified some other brand carbs that hold needle valve settings great. Someone suggested I taper the Mills needle valve and that might improve the stock needle valve performance. Jack
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Old Dec 05, 2009, 08:45 PM
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gkamysz's Avatar
Chicagoland
Joined Feb 2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnAV8R View Post
PARRA 2.5 diesel

The specs on this engine are better than the ETA.
Just maybe, it might be best to leave the muffler off it. All the above notes point to Corrosion .
I'm waiting for the AAC RC version to be released. I just might have to buy one. I'll run a muffler. I ran a muffled MVVS 2.5 when I first started RC and never had trouble.

Greg
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Old Dec 05, 2009, 08:52 PM
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Upper Arlington, Ohio
Joined Dec 2007
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This isn't my engine, but this picture from eBay is as good as I would take. It was giving to me and is really nothing more than a curiosity. Particularly with respect to its provenance.

The labeling is conflicting and I can't tell if it was made in East Germany or West Germany
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Old Dec 06, 2009, 05:02 AM
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Stuttgart, Germany
Joined May 2001
44 Posts
I have one of these WEBRA Record 1,5 diesel engine.

At your picture, because of the shape of the cylinder head, I think it is more like a WEBRA-Winner 2,5 ccm from approximate 1956 or later.
(But the displacement must shown on the chrankcase as 1.5 or 2.5 !)

My one, shown on my pictures is a WEBRA-Record 1,5 ccm also from approx. 1956.
The cylinder head is more round and red anodized.
Manufacturer and distributor was:
WEBRA-Fein-Modelltechnik, Berlin
Made in Germany
(which means West Germany)

The name WEBRA comes from the two company`s founder
Walter WEichler and Martin BRAgenitz (WE-BRA) back on 1949.
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Old Dec 06, 2009, 05:23 AM
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Stuttgart, Germany
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Very comparable to your picture is my ED-1,5 diesel.
He is, let me say a "WEBRA clone"
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Old Dec 06, 2009, 07:01 AM
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Upper Arlington, Ohio
Joined Dec 2007
1,413 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieter Doerr View Post

The cylinder head is more round and red anodized.
Manufacturer and distributor was:
WEBRA-Fein-Modelltechnik, Berlin
Made in Germany
(which means West Germany)

The name WEBRA comes from the two company`s founder
Walter WEichler and Martin BRAgenitz (WE-BRA) back on 1949.
Interesting, I had always thought that stuff made in the Federal Republic was stamped: W.Germany whereas things manufactured in the DDR was stamped: Germany.

Is this address in West Berlin?
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Old Dec 06, 2009, 07:21 AM
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The windy west coast of Sweden
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A rough Webra Record history

Hello,

Basically, there were 3 versions of the popular Webra Record.
Ryan's photo shows the later of them.
Dieter's engine is the "59-64" version.

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Last edited by Gluehand; Dec 06, 2009 at 07:31 AM.
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Old Dec 06, 2009, 07:39 AM
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John Moore's Avatar
Southern Spain
Joined Nov 2003
231 Posts
Dremo 0.5cc diesel

Another small diesel from Germany
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Old Dec 06, 2009, 07:57 AM
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Gluehand's Avatar
The windy west coast of Sweden
Joined Sep 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieter Doerr View Post
Very comparable to your picture is my ED-1,5 diesel.
He is, let me say a "WEBRA clone"
Dieter, this engine is the German made "ED HAWK".

Quote from "The Ed Story":
"The thing that will surprise most modelers familiar with previous ED products is the legend "Made in W. Germany" cast into the crankcase. The Hawk is, in fact, made in Germany to E.D.'s specifications and those modelers familiar with the products of Messrs. Fein und Modell Technik of West Berlin, will not be long in recognizing the obvious relationship with Webra engines".

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