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Old Mar 08, 2013, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnAV8R View Post
I'm not doing too good with the John Deer starting fluid.
What is your mix?

Greg
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 02:14 PM
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Canada, ON, Hamilton
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Greg, I have mixed one third of John Deer (JD, tractor), Castor and kero (1:1:1).
The MVVS .40 didn't have any problems with this.

I was able to get a small amount of pure ethyl ether and it worked fine in the Cox TD .09 with DD head.
But I have no more of this fuel.

My two year old can of Eric's (Dr. Diesel, picked it up in Toledo) diesel fuel isn't doing much other than a
mild "pop".
Last month I tried CTC starting fluid. It must have been really, really, lacking in ether. Even at 80% from the can it did nothing , not even a "pop".

I just got a couple of cans of JD to try out again. Have the castor and kero.
I have a diesel head for the Cox .049. It uses a Teflon insert/disk for a seal. With this I've also tried a disk made from an aluminum pop can.

I want to use the Cox to test the fuel. If it doesn't work in the Cox, then I'll not risk my better diesels.
I've set maximum compression (Cox) by having the piston actually touch the seal ever so slightly, then backed off so it is free. Again, just a "pop" and will not run. I am reluctant to use an electric starter, but I feel I am getting closer to with the Cox.

When I was a kid I used Mercury (?) model diesel fuel. It ran fine, easy starts, no problems.
In fact I can still remember when I was once playing with the compression from maximum to so low the diesel burped and then quite. I was so intent on “adjusting” the compression that I slowly turned my knuckle into the back of the prop and did not immediately notice until I had removed a bit of skin.

John
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 03:22 PM
Sticks, Tissue & old Diesels
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France, Centre, Amboise
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John,
Could I respectfully question your reasoning. You say that you don't want to test the fuel on a good diesel... Why not? Providing you don't do anything silly like "setting maximum compression" (whassat?), gross overcompression or electric starters, etc. there's no risk. At present, you have a binomial equation with two unknowns! You need one known and reliable element to determine whether there are problems in the other...
From what you say, it seems possible that the fuel simply has insufficient ether. OK, try it on a real Mills or an Oliver, etc. and you'll soon determine whether the fuel is OK or not! There's no risk in flicking an engine over on a reasonable compression setting.
IMHO, the problem is compounded by the fact that, in addition to doubtful fuel, you're messing with "iffy" motors, none of which are real diesels.
I'm lucky to possess very many diesels that start reliably in one or two flicks, and I'm always amazed by the trials and tribulations of the guys messing around with pop can or teflon disc contra-pistons, converted glows and the cheap oriental or Russian "replica" diesels. Just stay with good, properly made diesels and, if you have a fuel problem, at least you'll be sure!
Finally, if your known good diesel doesn't start reasonably, with moderate compression, then the fuel is probably no good. Don't just keep increasing compression in the hope that something will happen!!! Something probably will happen, but it won't be what you wanted!
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 07:56 AM
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Thanks Brian. You're right.
I was "hoping", but that didn't solve my problem.
I'll mix up a new fuel batch and try it in a tough old OS .60 which still has a lot of compression, but doesn't look too "pretty" these days.
First though, I've got a few builds to finish up or I'm going to be in trouble.
John
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 08:48 AM
Sticks, Tissue & old Diesels
brokenenglish's Avatar
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John, Thanks for not being offended by some of my rantings!
However, everybody to his own thing, as Sundancer would say, and having thought about it, I can better state my feelings like this...
Considering the engines you're playing with, it will be a minor achievement just to get them running reasonably. If that interests you and it's your objective, fine!
But I feel that if we're dealing with practical flying engines, and not ultra-rare collection stuff, then an engine should run dead easy, any time, any ol' way yer want, as Ben Buckle used to say.
Imagine we spend several months building a superbly finished old timer... and then we're going to drive several hundred miles to a meet. Would you go to that much commitment based on the results you're getting from a converted glow with a Teflon disc?
If the answer to that question is "No" then (only) my opinion is that there's no point in messing with such stuff, you won't have any problems with a PAW!
Not to mention the fact that the Cox TDs are absolutely superb glow engines!
and Thanks again for not being offended!
Brian
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 09:15 AM
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Brian, thanks again. I need a jolt of reality now and again.
You're absolutely correct in stating that you don't want to drive to the flying field and then spend all day trying to start an engine, or at worst not starting it.
I can remember past years trying to start in the winter, weak battery, no glow on the plug, no flying.
But, I can also remember one winter, Webra 1.5 cc diesel did start rather well and I flew and had a good time in the snow.
I haven't been out in the snow to fly for many years, maybe time to start again.
John
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 09:39 AM
Sticks, Tissue & old Diesels
brokenenglish's Avatar
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John, This is the kind of thing I mean. I love playing with engines. A few weeks ago (Jan 20 to be precise), I decided to give this Speed Demon a run.
It was very cold, around 0°C, so I decided to use my fixed compression fuel.
The engine started immediately, really a couple of flicks, and ran powerfully and very evenly, so I'm now considering what would be a good plane for it!
PS: I'm not asking for suggestions, I've already decided!
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 11:44 AM
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I do have this feeling he's got someone bidding for him to push-up the price.
You know, I am always weary when some bidder with a score of 9 is bidding on a rare expensive engine...
That Uranio diesel sold for 910$ won by that 9-score bidder.
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 12:16 PM
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I like 5 cc diesels for R/C old time models. I have been flying a GB for about ten years. First in a full size Playboy Cabin. Last year in an 810 sq. in. wing area Airborn. Probably better in a larger model. Some day. Jack
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 07:13 PM
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Over on the glow thread, we were discussing the Stegmaier brothers who utilised vacuum operated R/C gear. What I didn't realise was that Webra also produced a "Bully" (the 1950's 3.5 cc Diesel, not the large latter day one) with a factory fitted vacuum pump to operate this specialised R/C equipment - see here
http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...&%20Bully.html
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin Stack View Post
Over on the glow thread, we were discussing the Stegmaier brothers who utilised vacuum operated R/C gear. What I didn't realise was that Webra also produced a "Bully" (the 1950's 3.5 cc Diesel, not the large latter day one) with a factory fitted vacuum pump to operate this specialised R/C equipment - see here
http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...&%20Bully.html
Suprisingly there is no mention of the pump in the otherwise very complete books by Holger Menrad.
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 03:43 AM
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http://www.old-engine-model.com/en/k...onacni-motory/

Husička 2,5
Year: 1965
Size: 2.5 CC
Manufacturer: Josef Pfeffer
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 07:06 AM
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Typhoon

I still do regret selling mine ! This was made in the Netherlands by Veenhoven, factory situated at the Keizersgracht in Amsterdam. Extremelly rare is no excageration here. There was also a twin inline version, I do know someone in Holland that has one.
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Old Mar 12, 2013, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Reginald View Post
That Uranio diesel sold for 910$ won by that 9-score bidder.
Just in case they all missed it Reggy, the engine below made $910
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Old Mar 12, 2013, 01:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin Stack View Post
Just in case they all missed it Reggy, the engine below made $910
I know, that 9 score bidder did get it.
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