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Old Jan 30, 2013, 08:39 PM
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Plenty of sanding will lighten things up a bit
does anyone still dope airframes anymore ? or am I the only one .
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 09:30 PM
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Gold Coast Australia.
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Originally Posted by olmod View Post
Plenty of sanding will lighten things up a bit
does anyone still dope airframes anymore ? or am I the only one .
My word, I do and have done since Adam was a boy.
3 or 4 coats of very thin dope onto the structure, sand lightly with well worn fine grit paper then on with the covering.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 09:58 PM
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I made an exhaust restrictor for my K-Mills (.75cc) to quiet it down and reduce the peak RPM. First, I cut a piece of aluminum tubing (3/4" OD, .065" thickness) approx 5/16" wide. I removed a portion of it so that the piece would just cover both exhaust ports of my motor as shown in the photo. I drilled two 5/64" holes in the region of the exhaust ports and then bent the piece so that it snaps onto the engine. The fit is far from a perfect seal, but it does the job intended and only took 15 minutes to make with hand tools. Now I can fly in the park next door without raising much attention.

Steve
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by olmod View Post
does anyone still dope airframes anymore ? or am I the only one .
I would guess you're far from alone....
Personally I have never abandoned the use of dope, mainly because I've yet to find any superior method when it comes to lightness and general appropriate properties for model aircraft building.
Of course I'm also a conservative old f*#~*t...

Within controlled limits, I like the smell too...

I am happy that the stuff is still available...
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Last edited by Gluehand; Jan 31, 2013 at 02:51 AM.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 04:39 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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South-west France
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Originally Posted by JohnAV8R View Post
Geoff,
Iím over 65 too, catching up to you!.

Hereís what I did. ( In addition to letting a little cat out of the bag!!!)

J
Glad to see your TT is progressing John, although I'm surprised you feel you might have a weight issue, the prototype only weighs a pound AU. Still, if you do decide to fit an oil burner, I'll be interested to hear how it goes.

BTW shouldn't the upper wing pylon be installed before planking??
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 06:38 AM
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Thanks for that John ,all filed away in the notes section of my iPad for my next effort ,grand daughter says she now understands,well see.I notice in the pictures of your model (TT ?) you have massive bulkheads ,if I was building that style of thing for Texaco with a say 61 OS 4 stroker in it I'd have used 1/16 balsa with a 1 mil ply face on one side.Its certainally well engineered but gee there's some weight in it and one doesn't see it when finished I presume and for a little desiel !!! I built 3 Sparey 5 cc desiels and I have one in a full size Powerhouse and it swings a 15x4 prop at 4800 and the front bulkhead is1/8 light ply with a machined out of solid aluminum mount hanging off it.Ive just taken some pics so see if Megan can make it work. This model was supposed to have 4 bulkheads of at least 1/4 thick but has survived 4years of work with only one and everything else 1/4 square balsa, ready to fly at 4 lb 9 oz so I get 5lb fuel allotment of 10cc and usually 4 mim 50 sec engine run time.The Sparey was a great little project to make ,was my first effort with casting ,learnt a lot about patterns and drawings and such real quick.Well John all that didn't work on my iPad ,I can still only put one picture on ,the advance picture up loader does not work because adobe flash player doesn't work on an iPad so I'm told.Geoff.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 07:17 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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Geoff

I don't use the advanced picture loader;

Click on "Manage attachments"
In the window that opens click on the first of the six "Choose File" boxes which will then open a window for you to find the right folder and file on your PC. Having found the file highlight it and click "Open". The screen returns to the first window, DO NOT click "Upload" but instead click on the second "Choose File" label, and so on until all six lines (or any number up to six you want to load) have a file in them THEN click the "Upload" button.

The pictures will upload, there should be a "percentage completed" counter at the bottom left.

When the pictures appear you can type in a caption for each one if you want and also select the order that you want them to display (if you leave the order box blank they will display in random order). When you have finished all the captions etc. DO NOT FORGET to click "Save", after which you can click "Close this window" at the bottom. The pictures will then be listed under the "Manage Attachments" banner. If you want to add more than six pictures, just repeat the process.

Hope that helps

BTW, you may be thinking of the wrong "TT", the model John is building appears to be my Frog Tom Tit x2 biplane, I know he has the plans and was intending to start one. It isn't a Texaco model of any type, it's a lightweight electric biplane scale-up of an 18" rubber powered model. On my original the formers were sandwiches of 1 mm ply/1/16" balsa/1 mm ply, but I don't know what he is using.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 08:19 AM
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I have no idea at all I'm afraid but my girl does get to all the lines are full and showing each pic,then push up load and it just sits there doing nothing at all. We thought that the file ,is that right? might be to big so she resized it but didn't make any difference , got to up load and went no further .I use an iPad not a pc ,does this make a difference. Thanks for the help guys. Geoff.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 09:29 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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Hmmm. Know nothing about iPads Geoff, I have no idea why it won't work for you. File size shouldn't be a problem, my pictures are up to 3 Mb and it just loads thumbnails from them with no problems.

Anyone any ideas???
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 07:26 PM
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Geoff, your Sparey 5 cc diesel build looks good. Does it have a vibration problem turning the 15/4 prop at 4,800 RPM? I have some Drone BB diesels and they are real vibrators at least at higher RPMs with 13 inch props. Did you ad any counter balance to the crank? Jack
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 09:26 PM
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These ones of mine are or seem to be reasonably powerful compared to 5others I have seen .I made the cranks out of EN36A and they have a full circle web and 7075 rod "H" section ,hollow gudgeon pin from 4140 and I ground the piston and also made it as light as I could .This one is mine and seems to be the best of the 3,the other 2 went to other people and they are close to mine but I have also spent a bit more time on it ,eg ,made 2 more pistons to try things out and push the boundary a bit .A friend that I make vintage motor cycle parts for runs a Drone deisel and it has a vibration problem as well,which we worked at and did improve a bit ,then we started balancing the props to suit it and that fixed it .BUT don't put em on anything else or the wrong way around on the Drone ,DISASTER. Geoff.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 05:00 AM
Good Better Best quest.
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Australia, VIC, Cranbourne East
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I have often wondered about the value of trying a ring type ballancer fitted behind props similar to a washer with a tube around the edge with some ball bearings inside ,I have some years back seen small ones but have not been able to find any, has anyone else tried them?
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 05:21 AM
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I try not to add to cranks if I can and didn't with the Spareys ,but I built a 1.5 with a steel front housing twin b/r ,rear drum induction,ABC,push pull head and supposedely balanced crank by puting two carbon steel discs,wich I cut off a broken end mill,into slots cut out of the web and then epoxied them then shrunk a steel ring around the lot. Worked well for awhile and was quite a good engine until we got the prop down to a single blade and low pitch .When the ring and the epoxie let go it wasn't pretty .Havent seen the ring and balls thingy at all .Geoff.
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 07:55 AM
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A Komet & a bunch of ED's

Here's a Komet MkI in good company with a handful of ED engines, as published in the 1950 Wentzel's catalogue...
There was a serious spares backup for them all...

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Old Feb 02, 2013, 10:15 AM
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USA, Eastern Ohio
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Need some help here on K-Mills that I have. Seems the connecting rod is made of Jello and I am looking for a replacement. There is someone in the UK (I believe) making replacements. Anyone know who it is? I had the website at one time but no longer do.

Thanks
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