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Old Sep 15, 2012, 02:32 PM
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Gluehand's Avatar
The windy west coast of Sweden
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Quote:
Similarly they also use tubing clamps
Adjustable tubing clamp from the proverbial "rig".....
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 04:42 PM
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Belgium
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Originally Posted by Gluehand View Post
I have never really liked the black neoprene fuel line, as you cannot see the fuel move inside....

However, several years ago I had an operation, thus staying at the hospital for a while....
I instantly spotted the drip-feed line....non silicone...good size....obviously a potential fuel line for small diesels...
As the "rig" of lines etc is regularily discarded and thrown away, I asked the nurse if it was ok to take it....?
She not only approved on that, she also kindly brought me another, unused length.......i.e. now I've got a stash of the best diesel fuel line I've ever had, super soft (even to this day) , which will probably outlast me....

I can recommend the medical care as a source of fuel line...it's great quality..
That' a device I used to learn years ago for my very small engines.
Dammit, did run in the OSFS40SP this afternoon, handstarted the thing and the Graupner prop flew off right past my face, luckily was wearing safety glasses and my heavy Graupner finger reenforced glove but still have a swollen hand. Should have known better (with a girl like you...) with that 12 year old Tornado glow fuel, contaminated with water hence the detonation...
who said old fuel keeps well ? And I had fresh fuel available ! I'm off to bed now, we had a Chinese birthday celebration for my father in law with the European part of the family, too much good wine but off to the seaside tomorrow with wife and kids for some peace of mind. Good night all and keep it up. I am bidding on that Svenson SV4 for a club member on GB ebay so stay away from that one you do'nt stand a chance...... I should'nt drink that much really but fortunately I am a happy drinker. Ah well next weekend we are all going to fly sailplanes at Cat Blanc Nez in France, standing atop the main German bunker where once Hermann Göring did stand upon during the invasion. "When we jetz den krieg verlieren räshe Ich mir den arsh raush'. Wonder if he finally did that..... But losing he did anyway. It's a great historical site. Been going there for over 30 years.
All those boys that left their life there as well at Juno and Utah and Varreville or St Mére Eglise. I do know all these places very well. Still do have a famous M1 from a resistance-uncle in the attick. Becoming rare these days. Sleep well.
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 09:59 AM
robinson727
USA, MS, Byhalia
Joined Nov 2010
114 Posts
Hi All
Yep, Reginalds right Gluehand, you have to strip the old anodizing.. Easy enough w/ a mild acid solution, you just have to watch the time so it doesn 't eat it. Can't wait for Jena to get here and make it all perfect again.. what fun.

I made the carb mod for the Mk17 this morning.. I bored the disk valve casting first then worked on the carby next. My 4 jaw is to big for the carb body so I made a quicky mandrel with a light press fit of the carb.. A skim cut on the OD of the spigot and she was done, a nice press fit into the disk valve body.. I have to go over to my friends house today and see if he has a metric set screw, it will hold the carby in place and is the same location as the old spray bar so you really won't be able to tell it's non standard after the carb body is anodized.. Only issue is airflow.. I might have to make a smaller ID carb barrel to keep the airflow up around the spray bar but it's not to much different in dia. from the insert that was in it and easy enough to do if it requires a mod. . We will see..

So Reginald, please send some pics of your adventure in France.. that sounds fascinating and appeals to the arm chair travellers that we all are and you are so right about Normandy.. We owe a huge debt to these folks that sacrificed everything for us.
Hope everybody is having a great weekend.
Al
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 10:01 AM
Edubarca
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Colombia, South America
Joined Oct 2009
1,092 Posts
Anybody knows if the Mills .75 replica is still being made?
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 12:09 PM
robinson727
USA, MS, Byhalia
Joined Nov 2010
114 Posts
We got a chinese copy from Ed Carlson.. It seems to be doing well, we have a bunch of flights on it .. Google Carlson Engine Imports.. He's a good guy and we have been doing business with him for 20 years. Look back a coupla pages for the pic of my daughter Katie with her Bugaboo ,that's what the engine is on.
Hope that helps.

Al
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 12:09 PM
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USA, TX, Grapevine
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No they are not being made anymore. But CS out of China was making sort of a copy of it still.
http://www.csmodelengine.com/?a=productlist&cid=1
But otherwise one has to look for someone selling them someplace such as Ebay, etc.
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 12:17 PM
robinson727
USA, MS, Byhalia
Joined Nov 2010
114 Posts
Report 4029 is the one with the picture of our Bugaboo with the Chinese Mills. I spoke with Ed Carlson 2 weeks ago when I ordered another Mk 17 and he wanted to know how the CS Mills was doing.. I had to admit I was sceptical when I bought it but it starts well and does fine so I'm pleased with it so far.. Maybe it will end up being a better deal than the used Indian Mills replica's.. Who knows.. Time will tell..
Al
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 12:23 PM
robinson727
USA, MS, Byhalia
Joined Nov 2010
114 Posts
I forgot to mention..
I ran up the Mk17 carby diesel just now and it does well.. The idle is not the best but that it's a disk valve engine this is to be expected.. I need to run it some more to get a better eval. but so far, so good.. I think it's going to turn out to be a good mod..
Al
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 02:40 PM
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The windy west coast of Sweden
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Cleaning a Mills

Hi,

Could anyone suggest a (reasonably) good method of cleaning/de-gunking the black magnesium crankcase of a Mills P75...?

(I would never ever try to cook it in antifreeze ....hence my question....)

Thanks..

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Old Sep 16, 2012, 04:25 PM
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John Moore's Avatar
Southern Spain
Joined Nov 2003
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[QUOTE=robinson727;22747457]Hi All
Yep, Reginalds right Gluehand, you have to strip the old anodizing.. Easy enough w/ a mild acid solution, you just have to watch the time .......


Having worked in the anodizing business for a few years I must disagree with the above comments. Firstly what is a mild acid solution? There are hundreds of acids out there, so you have to be more specific, i.e. sulphuric ,nitric,acetic etc.
Normal anodising of aluminium is achieved by making the aluminium the anode in a 12% (or there abouts) Sulphuric Acid anodizing bath. The cathode can be the lead lined bath itself or lead or aluminium sheets.
After approximately 1/2 hour at room temp the work is removed, rinsed of and can be dyed with organic or inorganic pigments. Afterwards the Anodizing is sealed by placing in boiling water.
Stripping of the anodic coating is most easily achieved by immersing the piece in hot 10% sodium hydroxide, although there are many propriety strippers available. As you mention, care must be taken not to dissolve to much aluminium and the piece can be considered stripped as soon as an overal white frosting of gas bubbles appears.It is then rinsed off in water and desmutted in a dilute nitric acid solution, rinsed and dried.
Before re-anodizing, the same finish as the original had (machining or polishing )must be applied, otherwise the appearance will be completely different.
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 05:05 PM
Registered User
Gold Coast Australia.
Joined Jan 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gluehand View Post
Hi,

Could anyone suggest a (reasonably) good method of cleaning/de-gunking the black magnesium crankcase of a Mills P75...?

(I would never ever try to cook it in antifreeze ....hence my question....)

Thanks..

Acetone and tooth brush is my best suggestion.

I have four of those all in models, and to be honest leave them oily and gunky to stop the atmosphere getting to the magnesium.
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 07:11 PM
robinson727
USA, MS, Byhalia
Joined Nov 2010
114 Posts
The black on the Mills cases is from the magnesium chromating process used to protect the casting and you can re do it but for such a small piece I would probably send it out.. It's necessary to protect the magnesium and should be renewed.
Here's a little more about the process:
http://www.magnesium-elektron.com/da...s/DS256SU0.PDF

John.. you are correct, sodium hydroxide is used for a stripper.. it was typo / brain fart on my part.. I don't do it often enough to remember and it's easier to go over to a friends shop and let them do it, thanks for the correction.
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 12:47 AM
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Belgium
Joined Aug 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robinson727 View Post
Hi All
Yep, Reginalds right Gluehand, you have to strip the old anodizing.. Easy enough w/ a mild acid solution, you just have to watch the time so it doesn 't eat it. Can't wait for Jena to get here and make it all perfect again.. what fun.

I made the carb mod for the Mk17 this morning.. I bored the disk valve casting first then worked on the carby next. My 4 jaw is to big for the carb body so I made a quicky mandrel with a light press fit of the carb.. A skim cut on the OD of the spigot and she was done, a nice press fit into the disk valve body.. I have to go over to my friends house today and see if he has a metric set screw, it will hold the carby in place and is the same location as the old spray bar so you really won't be able to tell it's non standard after the carb body is anodized.. Only issue is airflow.. I might have to make a smaller ID carb barrel to keep the airflow up around the spray bar but it's not to much different in dia. from the insert that was in it and easy enough to do if it requires a mod. . We will see..

So Reginald, please send some pics of your adventure in France.. that sounds fascinating and appeals to the arm chair travellers that we all are and you are so right about Normandy.. We owe a huge debt to these folks that sacrificed everything for us.
Hope everybody is having a great weekend.
Al
I bet Carlson does not have one of these conversions of the Mk-17 ?
No no it is only next week that we are going to Cap Blanc Nez with the club.
Read the Ambrose book on the Normandy Landing the very best to my feeling. Things did'nt go so sweetly smoothly as presented in The longuest day movie. I did mine-sweep training on an MSO ship (no keel at all) so can imagine what it must have been on those Higgins LTC's ..... bweuk ...
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 12:55 AM
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Belgium
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Originally Posted by gossie View Post
Acetone and tooth brush is my best suggestion.

I have four of those all in models, and to be honest leave them oily and gunky to stop the atmosphere getting to the magnesium.
You are probably right about that protective film just as 'surface-rust' gives protection on steel (has been talked about here before) but carefull with acetone. I used to sweep and brush away happily in one big basin in my previous life before my Ultrason days. Nowadays I only touch the stuff with rubber gloves (finally managed to find some that are NOT attacked by aceton, kitchen rubber gloves are a nono) Acetone penetrates deeply into the skin.
I am NOT keen on magnesium made engines, have a few like the Ardens and an Avion-Mercury etc.
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 01:07 AM
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Belgium
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[QUOTE=John Moore;22750008]
Quote:
Originally Posted by robinson727 View Post
Hi All
Yep, Reginalds right Gluehand, you have to strip the old anodizing.. Easy enough w/ a mild acid solution, you just have to watch the time .......


Having worked in the anodizing business for a few years I must disagree with the above comments. Firstly what is a mild acid solution? There are hundreds of acids out there, so you have to be more specific, i.e. sulphuric ,nitric,acetic etc.
Normal anodising of aluminium is achieved by making the aluminium the anode in a 12% (or there abouts) Sulphuric Acid anodizing bath. The cathode can be the lead lined bath itself or lead or aluminium sheets.
After approximately 1/2 hour at room temp the work is removed, rinsed of and can be dyed with organic or inorganic pigments. Afterwards the Anodizing is sealed by placing in boiling water.
Stripping of the anodic coating is most easily achieved by immersing the piece in hot 10% sodium hydroxide, although there are many propriety strippers available. As you mention, care must be taken not to dissolve to much aluminium and the piece can be considered stripped as soon as an overal white frosting of gas bubbles appears.It is then rinsed off in water and desmutted in a dilute nitric acid solution, rinsed and dried.
Before re-anodizing, the same finish as the original had (machining or polishing )must be applied, otherwise the appearance will be completely different.
Yes I use acide sulphurique (12 V lead-attery stuff) myself and the brand-name DYLON for colouring (clothes dye). Not too sure about aluminium leads, altough I did use this myself, but a friend of mine runs a chroming factory nearby and they use red copper wires, but the I am NOT professional and maeby alu is a better guide for anodising. I did not find that all Dylon coulours give a good result red beeing the easiest. There was a good article about anodising for amateurs in one of the Model Engine World magazines written by N. Rat. It has been awhile since my last anodising, I use a very small tupperware box and have different little 'crockpots' for each colour. I am not very keen on acids in my workshop. I can scan the MEW article if wanted (still have to figure out sizing scans for mailing purposes on my new HP)
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