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Old Jun 30, 2011, 04:26 PM
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Oh Ok that makes sense. Thanks for the info. I guess they never did that over here as I never saw it. Our drug stores used to have the soda fountain shop inside for soft drinks, ice cream et cetera.

I can agree about the stopper working well. I remember in my old Chemistry classes in the lab where the various chemicals used different stoppers, including glass stoppers on the bottles.
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Old Jul 01, 2011, 05:33 AM
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New Zealand, Auckland, Papakura
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Mills 1.3cc Mk 1

Hi all you diesel buffs,

Having a problems with the Mills pictured. Basic problem is it won't run! Just gives a couple of pops after a prime. Have done the following:
1. Ensured both the stepped piston and cylinder liner are in their correct positions - ie: both step on piston and the two small transfer port holes to the front of the engine.
2. Put new gaskets on cylinder flange and back plate for good seal.
3. Cleaned out carb and ensured the fuel is fresh. Fuel works fine in my other diesel engines and I make up small quantities as needed. I have even swapped another carb off a running Mills but it still refuses to run.
4. Have changed the 9x6 wooden prop for a nylon 10x4 for better inertia.

With a model desperately wanting to be in the air with this engine I would be grateful for any other ideas. Have closely inspected crankcase for any signs of cracks but nothing evident. It also seems to have good compression. Confused

Thanks
Allen

PS: I do have one idea to try tomorrow by taking fuel bowl off and connecting up another tank with clear tube. That way I can see if it is drawing any fuel up.
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Old Jul 01, 2011, 06:03 AM
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Gold Coast Australia.
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Just sent you the clue on it via PM.
If that won't work post it over here. I don't have a MK1, only MK2s.
In actual fact it does look very nice. David I hope can help you.
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Old Jul 01, 2011, 07:42 AM
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Teals, " the Mills pictured. Basic problem is it won't run! Just gives a couple of pops after a prime."
Sounds like maybe it's just running[?] out the prime, or if not really running, just "popping", then I would say the compression is a little too low. The "prime" initially results in loading and higher compression.
If not the compression, the fuel may not have enough ether?
Let us know how you make out.
John
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Old Jul 01, 2011, 02:15 PM
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Christchurch - New Zealand
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Allen, That step in the piston needs to be at the front of the engine (prop side) at the transfer port.
Mark

PS - did you try my suggestion of taking the whole inlet / fuel tank off and blowing through it? Idealy you need to suck but only if you fill it with water
Stick a straw or longer tube into the bell side and blow and you will be able to see if the fuel/water lever drops as you blow through it. That will show if it is sucking ok or not when running...
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Old Jul 01, 2011, 08:28 PM
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New Zealand, Auckland, Papakura
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Mills update

Just letting you know that after fitting new gaskets and fitting a temporary replacement carb, I have got her running. Doesn't really sound that healthy but at least it was running which is an improvement. May have to look for a replacement carb/bowl assembly as needle doesn't shut off even when screwed in as far as it will go. Alternative is to have this one looked at.
Thanks for all the replies.
Allen
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Old Jul 01, 2011, 08:55 PM
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Teals

sounds like me , Im good with glows but diesels wow, they can be hard , the motor actually needs to be in good mechanical condition or else your up the creek,

I fly them because they are hard and smell better than glow
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Old Jul 01, 2011, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teals1 View Post
Just letting you know that after fitting new gaskets and fitting a temporary replacement carb, I have got her running. Doesn't really sound that healthy but at least it was running which is an improvement. May have to look for a replacement carb/bowl assembly as needle doesn't shut off even when screwed in as far as it will go. Alternative is to have this one looked at.
Thanks for all the replies.
Allen

Compare your carb. with the loaner one. Is the needle closing down and opening as it should?
Is the opening clear into the engine when looking into the venturi?
Does it suck fuel when choked?

Just took a look at your pic. of it. Is the cutout lever closing off the hole properly? You could try taking the lever off and cover the hole with tight fitting plastic tube.....I've done that on a Comp. Spec. that's missing the lever.
I notice the rear of the carb. has been cut to an angle. Probably so it can be choked in a model at some stage. That won't make it run either better or worse.
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Last edited by gossie; Jul 01, 2011 at 09:31 PM. Reason: More info.
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Old Jul 01, 2011, 09:28 PM
kill your idols
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my new diesel engine

picked up what i think is blue head am .10 rc with exhaust collector


3 Phillips screws on the head and no marking on the case

its varnished up so stuck i have no idea how to clean her at all

i know know why this crud is called varnish its just like a thick layer of hardwood varnish

will nitro clean this gunk off

will the nice blue color on head or spinner get lost in cleaning

i cant find much about am engines on internet any links would help
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Old Jul 01, 2011, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZEROSKIN76 View Post
picked up what i think is blue head am .10 rc with exhaust collector


3 Phillips screws on the head and no marking on the case

its varnished up so stuck i have no idea how to clean her at all

i know know why this crud is called varnish its just like a thick layer of hardwood varnish

will nitro clean this gunk off

will the nice blue color on head or spinner get lost in cleaning

i cant find much about am engines on internet any links would help
Soak it in model aircraft diesel fuel. That will soften what's in and on it.
That won't hurt the anodizing.

You could also soak it in lacquer thinner or acetone.

Don't try to turn it over as you may break something. When the cruds gone after a week or more of soaking oil it well inside and out then turn it over.
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Old Jul 01, 2011, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gossie View Post
Soak it in model aircraft diesel fuel. That will soften what's in and on it.
That won't hurt the anodizing.

You could also soak it in lacquer thinner or acetone.

Don't try to turn it over as you may break something. When the cruds gone after a week or more of soaking oil it well inside and out then turn it over.

ill get some acetone in the morning
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Old Jul 01, 2011, 10:41 PM
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You can soak the engine real good for a while. Then if it still seems stuck, usually the piston in the cylinder at this point, you can heat up the engine and the old stiff castor oil will soften up, then it ought to be easy to get loose.
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Old Jul 01, 2011, 10:56 PM
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New Zealand, Auckland, Papakura
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AM Engines

This is the range of AM (Allen Mercury) engines. I think the range was a (starting at the back) 1cc with green head; 1.5cc with blue head; 2.5cc with black head (I have this one); and 3.5cc with red head. They are quite powerful engines, of rugged design, and I can remember being 'bitten' by the prop on many an occasion when starting them. Long gone are the days when I could trot down to the local chemist and pick up a bottle of ether!
Have fun with your new purchase.
Allen
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Old Jul 01, 2011, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teals1 View Post
This is the range of AM (Allen Mercury) engines. I think the range was a (starting at the back) 1cc with green head; 1.5cc with blue head; 2.5cc with black head (I have this one); and 3.5cc with red head. They are quite powerful engines, of rugged design, and I can remember being 'bitten' by the prop on many an occasion when starting them. Long gone are the days when I could trot down to the local chemist and pick up a bottle of ether!
Have fun with your new purchase.
Allen


the blue headed one looks closest but mine has the rc carb and there is less webbing between intake and crankcase

also were any made without markings?
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Old Jul 02, 2011, 12:00 AM
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New Zealand, Auckland, Papakura
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AM Engines

Just had a look at mine and it only has the letters A-M on both sides of the crankcase. I believe the non RC types were mainly used for control line and had a hard life which probably explains the additional webbing behind the carb intake. I actually haven't seen an RC Allen Mercury engine but that is possible as I was only into free flight and control line as a kid. RC for me came along much later. Don't know if any were made without markings. Post a picture of it and it will soon be identified by someone.

Engine manufacturers did make changes as they went along. I found this out recently when I needed a replacement crankcase for an Enya .06. A guy in Sweden had a spare which I was lucky to obtain - parts are no longer available. It must have been a later model as the opening for the crankshaft had to be honed out (mine obviously had a thicker crankshaft) and the balance disc at the back of the crankshaft had to be turned down a little around the circumference as it wouldn't fit into opening within the crankcase.
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