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Old Jun 22, 2011, 07:04 PM
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Guizzo, see page 84, post # 1249 for fuel.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...054975&page=84

John
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Old Jun 22, 2011, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnAV8R View Post
Guizzo, see page 84, post # 1249 for fuel.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...054975&page=84

John
..and I can confirm that the starting fluid/kerosene (paraffin/lamp oil) / castor mix works well!
sparks
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Old Jun 23, 2011, 12:21 AM
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Mills engines were never known as screamers, and few 3rd-port engines ever are. However, they have the happy ability to run slowly either way, just the thing for your Seibel...
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Old Jun 23, 2011, 06:46 AM
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Sparks

Quote:
Originally Posted by sparks59 View Post
..and I can confirm that the starting fluid/kerosene (paraffin/lamp oil) / castor mix works well!
sparks
At what mixtures is that? , and how much ether does the surestart have in it , , I have used some surestart stuff that had 25% ether , and it worked but I heated the motor with LPG torch , and a little hard to start too

Im having a rest from my OS Diesel , my finger is healing , and thinking about my Silver Swallow 09 ,its hard to start , cant tell whether its worn out or not

Guizzo that is a nice motor
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Old Jun 23, 2011, 04:28 PM
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Thank you all mates! I'll test the philtre someday
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Old Jun 25, 2011, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NX-687 View Post
At what mixtures is that? , and how much ether does the surestart have in it , , I have used some surestart stuff that had 25% ether , and it worked but I heated the motor with LPG torch , and a little hard to start too

Im having a rest from my OS Diesel , my finger is healing , and thinking about my Silver Swallow 09 ,its hard to start , cant tell whether its worn out or not

Guizzo that is a nice motor
I used HEET starting fluid, its the only one I have seen in the UAE, no idea the percentage of ether. Mixed at 33.3, ie thirds with lamp oil and castor. It worked well for me, starting my old PAW 1.49 almost immediately after its last run in 1974. The DC Super Merlin took longer, but it was always a dog to start!
sparks
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Old Jun 25, 2011, 04:27 PM
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Hello,

My first diesel ever was a Webra 1.5 cc 'Record', of the '1953-59' version with beam/radial mount....just like the one seen below...

I recall my dad bringing it home, I think 1958, as he thought I needed a 'real' engine to follow my first stumbling steps with a McCoy .049 Glo...
A test bench was rigged up against the white plastered wall of my granny's house. Eventually, after some 'diesel flick' practising, said wall had a huge blurred spot right behind the testbench....pink stained, by a mix of Castor and Gluehand's DNA.... (...those white nylon props were razor sharp...)
Practise gave results though, and the Webra proved to be a very good engine, a 'last-forever', hadn't I eventually snapped its crankshaft in a serious C/L crash, and the remaining parts dissapearing in a house move...

Strangely, through the years, I haven't been able to find another example of the right version - until just recently...a used but undamaged example, with the anodizing slightly faded...just like I remember my original one...how could I resist that..?

Now to my question:
The contra-piston on this example is slightly on the 'loose' side....there IS a friction though, but I could press the C/P down with my thumb, and there is very little resistance felt in the comp.lever...it might work, but slightly more friction wouldn't hurt, I figure...
I have heard of expanding C/P's by heating to glow....is this a 'myth', or does the metal really not revert back to its former dimension...?
Any other known (safe) methods...?


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Old Jun 25, 2011, 08:41 PM
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I have heard of expanding C/P's by heating to glow....is this a 'myth', or does the metal really not revert back to its former dimension...?
Any other known (safe) methods...? [/QUOTE]

Gluehand, I have tried to "grow" pistons by the "Cherry Bombing" method on several different glow engines, but have had no success at all. My opinion is that - if that method DID work at all, it would only be on a new engine that hasn't already been heat cycled, and still had "green" metal. The one time I did measure an increase was only because some scale had formed on the outside of the piston. BOB
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Old Jun 26, 2011, 10:51 AM
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The one time I did measure an increase was only because some scale had formed on the outside of the piston.
Yep, I feel that this is what we could expect from this method, no more.....personally I feel doubt, hence my question...
Thanks for your input!

A club-mate sent his C/P for copper plating (electrolythic)....I was told this remedy was successful.....now, this may be an option....

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Old Jun 26, 2011, 11:51 AM
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Is there room to cut a groove in the C/P for a viton O-ring?
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Old Jun 27, 2011, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by earlwb View Post
Is there room to cut a groove in the C/P for a viton O-ring?
Yes, I figure there is room enough to fit a ring of some kind...I'll keep this in mind...thanks for the tip..

Another input:
Just a couple of hours ago, I had a phone call from a veteran aeromodeller, who claimed that the "cherry bombing" method works well, and he had done this successfully more than once, on ordinary pistons, no C/P's though...
I was just warned not to overdo the heating, as the expansion could be too large for the microscopic expansion that's required in my case... He recommended quenching in green brake fluid.....


....now leaning back, pondering......
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Last edited by Gluehand; Jun 27, 2011 at 11:07 AM. Reason: ...forgot about the brake fluid...
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Old Jun 27, 2011, 06:02 PM
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'Star' ...anyone..?

Recently I spoke to a person who has some NOS engine parts in his stash...he mentioned a few bags marked "Star", an engine he didn't recognise or remember....
When asking me if I had heard of this engine, I instantly replied 'no'....then 'mmm...YES', as a very old and well hidden memory started to materialize...

My memory of the 'Star' has to come from one of the catalogues (SEMO or Wentzels) that I used to drool over as a kid.
Unfortunately my present library of old catalogues is limited, and browsing the 1953 and 1959 issues didn't give anything.... consequently, the 'Star' must have been sold here somewhere between those years...probably short lived...(was it a 'junk' engine..?)

I have a blurry memory of a quite attractive engine of (maybe) 2.5 cc...

The nationality of this engine is unknown to me, but I feel it may be German (or East German..)...or I may be entirely wrong here...
Whether 'Star' is an independant brand name or a subname, I don't know...

When googling, I found a finished German auction of a 'Star', with no further facts available....that's all...

I know, this is tricky, but maybe someone out here knows......

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Old Jun 27, 2011, 06:52 PM
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Another input:
Just a couple of hours ago, I had a phone call from a veteran aeromodeller, who claimed that the "cherry bombing" method works well, and he had done this successfully more than once, on ordinary pistons, no C/P's though...
I was just warned not to overdo the heating, as the expansion could be too large for the microscopic expansion that's required in my case... He recommended quenching in green brake fluid.....
Gluehand, maybe its possible to gain a slight increase in a Diesel for a couple of reasons - firstly, Diesel's tend to have much more metal in the piston than glow engines do, and secondly, Diesel's run at lower temperatures. One of the glow engine pistons I attempted to "grow" had a very thin piston skirt, which promptly split right up one side when heated. BOB
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Old Jun 27, 2011, 11:24 PM
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I have used the heat to red and quench in old engine oil method several times with success. It produces more growth on some pistons than others and can easily result in a need to lap the piston down a bit to get it back in the bore. I have not done this with contra pistons, but instead have used a method attributed to Gordon Burford. That is to put the contra piston face up on a solid unyielding surface (like anvil or block of steel), with another small bit of steel in the recess that the operating screw pushes on. Rest a large ball bearing in the centre of the contra piston face and tap the ball ever so lightly with a large hammer - let a 2lb hammer fall from say 3 inches above the ball just under its own weight. DON'T haul off and bash it. Do that once then try the contra for size and if not tight enough repeat the performance. I have done this many times successfully and have only had one failure when I had the contra piston of an Amco 3.5 fall in half ( If I had known in advance how brittle it was, I would have annealed or cherry bombed that one) As it was I had to just make a new contra piston.
Charlie
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Old Jun 28, 2011, 02:16 AM
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I'll second the ball bearing method.
I had one perfect success - DC Wildcat.
... and one complete failure - Taplin Twin - 3 pieces!
At least it gave me the reason to try the contra psiton method by David Owen available on Ron's mdoel engine site.
Basically the idea its to use a very thin walled contra (1/32") with a 1 degree incuded taper. Works like a charm!
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