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Old May 07, 2011, 12:47 PM
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I think the replica engines were made by someone really good at engine making in Russia. I don't know if Bob had them made or made them in a partnership together. Then Bob Langelius was selling them here in the USA. They are replicas. That is why there is no name or logo or brand markings on them.
I don't know what type of mold they used though. They could have deliberately made a mold to look rough too. Sand casting and or lost wax methods would work too. But they did not want people trying to sell them off as originals though, so they don't have the same external appearance as the originals.
it is my understanding that these replica engines run much better than the originals did. They had better quality control for the precision fitting.
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Old May 07, 2011, 03:11 PM
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I have had some recent emails and a phone call with Bob about his replica McCoy .049 diesels. He had an experienced diesel fellow in Russia make up these fine little engines. Bob runs them before shipping to a customer. A SAM member has one plus a number of originals and says his repro falls in the middle for RPM of his well run in originals. I ran one I got from Bob a week or so back on my test stand. See photos. Runs well and easy to start and adjust. Bob sends these with the contra piston and needle valve in the run position. The temp that day was 45 degrees F. so the engine did not over heat. I did not take RPM readings. About 1953 when these came out they were impressive. I was running OK cubs at that time. I had considered a McCoy diesel but did not get one untill recently. Jack
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Old May 08, 2011, 03:14 PM
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Hi,

I'm new to this site and trying get some advice about 3 engines I recently turned out after 20+ years languishing in cupboards. Among them is the ED Bee 1cc diesel I bought c1960 as a schoolboy along with a Cox 0.49 glow plug which was given to me by my American cousin around the same time. (I think it came as part of a Cox control line model – a yellow Piper if I remember- much crashed!). I also have a Wen-Mac P39 Airacobra with an 0.49 of the same era.

Its ages since they have been running. The ED Bee turns over and I think I last cleaned and oiled it some 15 years ago. The Cox and the Wen-Mac are gummed up with hard residue.

Can you tell me how to safely ease and clean the engines ready for use again?
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Old May 08, 2011, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger the Cat View Post
Hi,
Its ages since they have been running. The ED Bee turns over and I think I last cleaned and oiled it some 15 years ago. The Cox and the Wen-Mac are gummed up with hard residue.

Can you tell me how to safely ease and clean the engines ready for use again?
Usually you can take them apart a little (like the head and back plate) and soak them in some glow fuel and after a couple of days the old castor oil will soften up and dissolve and then the engines can be checked out better and set up to run again.
You can speed up the process some using a hot air hair dryer gun to heat the engines up to soften the old castor oil and oil the engines up as well.
If the engines have plastic parts you want to remove those to prevent damage to the parts from heat.
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Old May 08, 2011, 09:05 PM
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Talking a R/C flyer into building a F/F 44" Tomboy.

He does have a Frog 100 Mk2 diesel in good shape but it lacks a needle.

Can anybody assist?

Thanks in advance....

JM
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Old May 08, 2011, 09:13 PM
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I would suggest that he can get a PAW needle assembly from a couple of sellers on Ebay.
That should work fine in his FROG engine. Then later if he wants, he can look for an original.
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Old May 09, 2011, 05:20 AM
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OS Rebuild

I decided to have a go at my snapped off crankpin and annealed the crank web and drilled it out and pressed in a 4mm dowel , also it had a heap of carbon on the piston top is that the kero , I dont get all that with my glows , it was thick , Im running 25 % castrol M

I got the feeling the compression was getting more and more , it was the carbon , I put a viton Oring in my 6mm diameter contra piston and it might work now , before it would go down but not up , , Im hoping it will run
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Old May 09, 2011, 11:05 AM
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Nice going on the crankpin replacement. Do let us know how it works out. I am not expecting anything out of the ordinary though.
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Old May 09, 2011, 10:05 PM
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Burford Deezil

Shown here are two Gordon Burford Replica Deezil's of superb quality. Note the different type of prop drivers - one is just a flat washer with a "D" drive, the latter made possible by a flat machined along the entire thread. The engine with the larger tank was actually used by Gordon to place in a Contest (read the letter). To give some idea of how tall the Deezil is, note the comparison with a Glo Chief 19, itself a tallish engine.
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Old May 10, 2011, 10:21 PM
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That is some cool history there with that engine. he does make some fantastic engines too.
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Old May 11, 2011, 08:47 AM
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Twinstack,
Please correct me if I am mistaken, but I understand the Burford Diezel with the "D" shaped crank runs on roller bearings as opposed to the plain bearing solid shaft version.
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Old May 11, 2011, 11:13 AM
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Here is one of the last advertisements that Gotham Hobbies ran for the Deezil engine back in a 1955 issue of Popular Mechanics Magazine. The $1.95 price tag was a clearance sale price I assume. But the 5 cents postage for S&H makes for some thoughts about how much inflation has occurred over the years. I actually have the magazine page for the ad that i scanned in.
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Old May 11, 2011, 11:01 PM
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Burford Deezil

Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketRob View Post
Twinstack,
Please correct me if I am mistaken, but I understand the Burford Diezel with the "D" shaped crank runs on roller bearings as opposed to the plain bearing solid shaft version.
This has turned out to be an extremely interesting question ! I myself did not know the answer, so I asked the two leading Australian authorities on Burford engines. Neither could come up with a definitive answer, but here's what I found out - apparently, there WERE a few Deezil's with needle roller bearings, but the failure rate was high due to incorrect shaft hardness and also the bearing itself not being up to scratch. There were also apparently, problems with the "D" drive washer (splitting ?), so that would seem to indicate that they came first, followed by the collet type (also steel) prop driver. Can anyone else contribute to this discussion ? BOB
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Old May 11, 2011, 11:25 PM
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Burford Deezil

And in case anyone was having difficulty reading Gordon's letter properly - (quote)
"The engine enclosed is one I used last week end to come 2nd place in one of our large regional old timer Texaco meets, only beaten by 5 points for first, what makes it good is that I fly against OS 60's and 40's, and Enya 46 4 strokes, we don't have different engine classes.
3/4 scale Turner Special weighing 2lb. 3oz. 8cc of fuel, 10" x 6" Top Flite Nylon, fuel 30% ether, 40 Kero, and 15% Castor & 15% 40 S.A.E. mineral oil. I get 5 1/2 - 6 min engine run so the 10 minute flight time no big deal."
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Old May 11, 2011, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin-Stack View Post
And in case anyone was having difficulty reading Gordon's letter properly - (quote)
"The engine enclosed is one I used last week end to come 2nd place in one of our large regional old timer Texaco meets, only beaten by 5 points for first, what makes it good is that I fly against OS 60's and 40's, and Enya 46 4 strokes, we don't have different engine classes.
3/4 scale Turner Special weighing 2lb. 3oz. 8cc of fuel, 10" x 6" Top Flite Nylon, fuel 30% ether, 40 Kero, and 15% Castor & 15% 40 S.A.E. mineral oil. I get 5 1/2 - 6 min engine run so the 10 minute flight time no big deal."
Wonderful!

But I always thought that mixing castor and mineral oil was a bad thing due to the coagulated mess that is supposed to ensue when you do it?
sparks
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