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Old Jun 25, 2009, 06:45 AM
Larry Jasmann
Severna Park MD
Joined Jul 2008
462 Posts
I do about the same, only I use a saw and a miter box. I usually cut mine slightly too long and then sand it down the last little bit for a nice tight fit.

L. Jasmann
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Old Jun 25, 2009, 07:30 AM
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Boston, MA subburb
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I use the same cutting technique as Larry (i.e. mitre saw long and sand to fit).

I use Titebond for glue and sandbags in zip lock bags for weights. I quickly learned that if I did not want the cap strips to be tipped (or to have bows in 1/32 sheeting around ribs), I needed to hold the cap strips in place with a long, straight piece of pine on top of the cap strip / D-tube sheet joint or cap strip / trailing edge joint (with wax paper in between) and then pile on the sandbags.

Alan
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Old Jun 25, 2009, 07:44 AM
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EJ

My snow blower is on vacation. It stays inactive for a six months every year. Since it works daily, the rest of the year, it deserves the time off. LOL

I use basically the same technique as you, when cutting cap strips.
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Old Jun 25, 2009, 08:47 AM
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Basic same technique, only I use a #11 blade in my E-xacto handle. I cut them slightly long and sand. I use Zap-a-Gap to glue and hold with fingers until the glue kicks.
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Old Jun 26, 2009, 08:27 PM
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Wing cap strips are finished!

Planed, sanded, and shaped the left wing leading edge and wing tip block.I like the feel of the block plane in my hand, shaving off the wood in coiling curls. I took the edges down to just above the wing top and bottom sheeting and then used 150-grit sandpaper on a sanding bar. I then used a Great Planes half-circle sanding bar with 100-grit to form the round-over of the leading edge. 150-grit was then used free-hand.

The toip and bottom of the wingtip block was brought down level with the adjoining cap strip with the 80-grit sanding bar. I covered the second to last cap strip with masking tape and then duct tape as not to remove any of it’s material. It would be really easy to sand the cap strip down while trying to trim down the wingtip block. I used masking tape on top of the cap strip first because duct tape is notorious for leaving adhesive residue behind.and, I used duct tape on top of the masking tape because of it’s slick surface holds up better against the sand paper

The wingtip block top and bottom square edges were planed at a forty-five (45) degree angle, thin at the trailing edge and broadening up to the leading edge. 80-grit was used to round and shape the block, followed by 150-grit sanded free-handed.

Overall, I’m pretty satisfied. The right wing is next. After that, I’ll hold off on detail and final sanding until the tail feathers and fuselage are ready for fitting.

Thanks for following along!

EJWash
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Old Jun 27, 2009, 11:18 PM
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There is wingage! Okay, “wingage” is not a word, but fits for declaration purposes...

The wing is finished. As mentioned before, final sanding will come later. On to the tail feathers.

Loaded the top half of the kit box with the materials needed for the horizontal and vertical stabs, and the elevator and rudder. Doesn’t look like much stock, but there will be a whole lot of cutting-n-sandin’ goin’ on.

EJWash
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Old Jun 28, 2009, 08:02 AM
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Just found this thread. Wow... you do nice work!!!!!

Chuck
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Old Jun 28, 2009, 02:01 PM
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Chuck,

Thanks, but it's all in the tools!

(at least that's what I tell my wife when I NEED a new tool...)

I'm having fun with the build.

EJWash
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Old Jun 29, 2009, 07:00 AM
Larry Jasmann
Severna Park MD
Joined Jul 2008
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Looking Good! I am still sanding on the FK prior to covering.

Larry
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Old Jun 29, 2009, 07:32 PM
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Larry,

Thank you much!

What are you going to cover your FK with?

I'm starting to roll thoughts around about covering. I have Stits Lite info coming. I've been wanting to give it a try, but it may be a little heavy for this ship. I've sent Nelson a couple of e-mails about ColorFab and LiteFab over the last couple of weeks, but no answer. I'll try a phone call sometime later on. I'm also considering Coverite, which I have no experience with. Not going to cover with film.

I'd appreciate hearing some experiences out there with other than film (or dope).

EJWash
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Old Jun 29, 2009, 08:10 PM
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Horizontal stab finished, and I’m taking a break while glue dries on the framing pieces of the elevator. Time for a dip and rehydrating!

All the tail feathers are made up of open-frame stick construction. The outer frame is built and then there are diagonal ribs glued in place.

The framework was pretty straight-forward. No hang-ups at all. I used West System epoxy to glue the spruce spars to the leading and trailing edge pieces. Titebond for the rest of the frame. As you can see, the frame was clamped into place. Short dowel pices were used to hold the outside edge pieces in place. Unless your clamp is square to the work being glued, you’re not going to get even pressure along the entire gluing surface. Being that the dowel is round, it actually provides an area that is square to work (look at the bird’s-eye pic of the bar clamp - the theory will be clear).

I also cut out a clamping jig piece to apply clamping pressure to the center sheet.

I measured and noted the angles of the ribs. My Mitre Sander by Fourmost Products was worth it’s weight in gold. I adjusted the work material arm to the angle on the compass, and with a few passes of the sanding block, the 1/8” X 5/16” stock was shaped for a nice flush fit against the outer frame. The opposite end of each ribs was cut a tad long and then it was a process of sand - trial fit, sand - trail fit, until the rib was snug in place.

Thanks for following along!

EJWash
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Old Jun 29, 2009, 08:26 PM
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That dowel assisted clamp really is slick. I've saved it for future reference...

Chuck
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Old Jun 30, 2009, 12:13 AM
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Chuck,
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoFlyZone
That dowel assisted clamp really is slick.
Something I picked up from woodworking.

When you think of carving wood with mallet and chisels, you think the mallet is a wooden hammer like Moe used to smack Larry and Curly with, right? Wrong! A woodcarving mallet is actually cylinder-shaped (see pic below).

With a flat-faced mallet, to get the full force, you must strike exactly square-on. With a round mallet, you do not have to be as accurate.

When you use this method, make sure that you use a scrap piece of material as a spacer between the dowel and your work so you do not mar and indent your work.

EJWash
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Old Jun 30, 2009, 12:19 AM
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Curve-ball on the elevator. Sig provided a 5/16” X 2” x 18” sheet of balsa for the tail feathers. The problem is that the elevator trailing edge is 1” wide, which means that there is no way to get two 1” strips from a 2” wide piece of wood. I could come r e a l l y close by using a razor blade, but it’ll be just as easy to pick up a 5/16” X 1” stick at my LHS. If its not in stock, I’ll have to spring for a 3” sheet and rip it down on the table saw. Even at that, I’ll loose 3/16” from the width for the saw blade kerf. No worries, this is modeling!

I visited the vertical stab (fin) instead.

Thanks for following along!

EJWash
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Old Jun 30, 2009, 06:06 AM
Larry Jasmann
Severna Park MD
Joined Jul 2008
462 Posts
I am enjoying your build a lot.....

I finally finished the sanding process on the FK and am starting to cover. I am using MonoKote (it is what I am comfortable with). I am using a combination of white, transparent blue and transparent orange on the outer wing panels.

Larry
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