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Old Jan 08, 2012, 04:53 AM
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hertfordshire UK
Joined Aug 2009
13 Posts
Wrecked my first one way bearing & shaft yesterday, i am getting a friend to machine a couple out of hard ejector pins, but i was wondering is it good enough to harden the standard shafts? and can you get the one way bearings in the UK?

P.S. Steve, i am still interested in the SB5 in the future if its still available
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 05:58 AM
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canvey island
Joined Jul 2002
1,821 Posts
Yeah still in the bin bag somewhere along with my other 1/5 scales, have fun with that Anderson fantastic bikes for the money !!
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 10:38 AM
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Sverige, Stockholms Lšn, Stockholm
Joined Jun 2011
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Todays driving -5 and big jumps

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvbAG...e_gdata_player
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 01:27 PM
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United Kingdom, Brownhills
Joined Feb 2012
2 Posts
Hi guys
im new to the forum and new to rc bikes i have been brought the m5 cross and think its great. I have a few questions if anyone could answer them .
1) is it better to take all the weights out the giro.
2) can the standard esc and motor run on a 2 cell lipo .
3) is it better if i glue the tires on .
4) what oils/grease are used to keep everything running smooth.

thanks in advance
Dave67
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Old Feb 04, 2012, 07:43 AM
Kungsangen, Stockholm, Sweden
z_dad's Avatar
Sweden, Upplands-Bro Municipality
Joined Dec 2011
254 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dave67 View Post
Hi guys
im new to the forum and new to rc bikes i have been brought the m5 cross and think its great. I have a few questions if anyone could answer them .
1) is it better to take all the weights out the giro.
2) can the standard esc and motor run on a 2 cell lipo .
3) is it better if i glue the tires on .
4) what oils/grease are used to keep everything running smooth.

thanks in advance
Dave67
Welcome to the forum, -and rc bikes. You have chosen wisely.

1) Start with a fully loaded gyro. With all weights in the rear wheel you get stability, without you get agility. The gyro effect will get stronger the faster you go.
You have to ask yourself how your driving situation is. Fast, motard style parking lot racing, or slower, motocross style back yard bashing with jumps.
This is a matter of preference and you have to try out a personal compromise.
2) Yes no problem but it would be smart to add a lipo guard since the rtr esc don't have lipo cutoff.
3) No, the rear tire has to come off when you service or alter the gyro and the front tire doesn't benefit from it (unless you go really fast).
4) Regular light lubricating oil for the chain and some grease for the fork legs, that's all.

At last a few tips: Get the metal gear right away, the plastic one splits as soon as you jump and bottom out the rear suspension. Talking of rear suspension, fill up the damper with 5-7000 oil (usually badly filled from factory), it makes a big difference. Mount the front axle carriers so the front wheel axle sits in front of the fork legs to prevent the wheel from caching the battery box. As soon as you try to go offroad it will be obvious why. Also this makes the bike a little more agile by the difference in steering angle
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Old Feb 04, 2012, 03:46 PM
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United Kingdom, Brownhills
Joined Feb 2012
2 Posts
Thank you z-dad for you all your help and tips very much appreciated
kind regards
dave
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Old Feb 04, 2012, 04:33 PM
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canvey island
Joined Jul 2002
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Hi I would not grease the fork legs as all the dirt and grime tends to sticks to it just causing the fork to lock up and wear out very quickly,, if you have the money and they are not dear, fit the oil damped forks they are great, and the bike does not handle so nice with the axle in front of the forks, just my opinion
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 01:02 AM
www.steliosh.net/rcmoto/
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Athens, Greece
Joined Oct 2003
3,295 Posts
I have tried the bike with both "front" and "rear" front axle, mainly on asphalt.
With the axle in front the bike is better on asphalt, but is "lazy" to turn. Maybe it's the kit servo that's lazy, maybe the springs are too soft?
I m also lazy to experiment!
In the dirt with the axle in the back, it was a handful! See my latest video on "did you use your bike", it's still at the last page...
This time, also, for the first time, I installed all 5 gyro weights in it, something that made a difference in asphalt, but was not better in the dirt.
Maybe 5 weights and "front" axle...
Oh well... it's so much fun pulling wheelies for long distances...
I am running a 4300kv motor, on kit gearing.
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 03:33 AM
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Manchester, UK
Joined Nov 2005
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Isn't the ground clearance a lot less with the axle at the front? I would have thought that would make a difference for off road too.

I was meaning to ask if the bike comes with oil in the shocks as standard, of if they're oil fillable but empty. I'm a bit confused about that now. Where do you buy suitable shock oil, in the UK?

I considered opening mine to find out but the thought of getting oil everywhere has put me off, so far. I can hear something sliding from one end of the shocks to the other if I tip the bike, so I'd guess there's no oil.

I still haven't got round to doing the thread locking and trying it out. I've been fiddling more with planes and boats lately.

I bought a couple of the cheap Nasaki 1:5 HOR toy racing bikes (nothing special, just switched, all or nothing, toy grade controls) because I want to experiment with making a 3CH bike with both a leaning rider and direct stearing. If it's successful I may make a leaning rider for the M5 Cross too. One of those bikes came with broken forks, but they're clearly so fragile I didn't bother to try to get a replacement. I'm just going to build new ones out of aluminium tubing.

There's an upgrade thread for the Nasaki bikes, with the intention of fitting proper R/C gear, here:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_83..._1/key_/tm.htm

It sort of peters out, but there are good pull-apart photos.
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 03:43 AM
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Manchester, UK
Joined Nov 2005
3,775 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by s3davep View Post
Wrecked my first one way bearing & shaft yesterday... can you get the one way bearings in the UK?
This is the spares list, at the shop I bought my M5 Cross from:

http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/c/602/?o=4 (sorted by dearest first, so the fiddly bits are on the last page).

Shadow Stock means they've got it in a warehouse but there's a delay to get it delivered. I assume they can order all the Out of Stock items, but obviously it would take longer.

Is this the bit you need?

http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/102469/
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 08:25 PM
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Joined Sep 2006
404 Posts
Question, whatis your motor and esc combo? Could i use 1/10 truck motor?

EDIT: has anyone used Leopard combo esc?
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Last edited by deeh_46; Apr 09, 2012 at 08:30 PM.
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Old May 07, 2012, 01:50 AM
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Australia, WA, Perth
Joined May 2012
6 Posts
I've had my Anderson M5 brushless for a couple of years now, played with it for a couple of months when it was new. which was mildly amusing until the plastic spur gear snapped, and then it was a shelf queen for the best part of a year.

Pulled it out of the cupboard 5 months ago, acquired a new (plastic) spur gear and away it went again. I was mucking around with the steering linkage, trying to figure out what difference the spring tensions against the servo horn would make - hopefully to eliminate some of the steering wobble.

Well, like many RTR's, the stock servo is rubbish - my guess is 6 or 8kg rated. Being a buggy racer, I had a spare Hitech 24kg servo in my pitbag so swapped that in. During this process, I looked at the linkage more carefully and noticed that because of the design, it could only ever turn half as much one way as the other - the piano wire hits the bike frame. So I took off the front number plate, put a threaded rod in where the holding screws for the plate were, and made my own swivel linkage so it now turns 100% both ways with no interference. What a world of difference! Just so much more fun to play with now.

Removed the stupid rider too, he just ends up falling to pieces. This also seemed to make it handle a little better if you live in a windy place like I do - he acts like a big windsail.

Here's a couple of vids post-modifications - one on grass at the local park, and one on our clay buggy track. Bear in mind it was middle of summer, and the clay track was very dry and dusty - traction almost nil. After one and a half batteries 'learning' the track, I was able to do full laps (albeit slow in places) without crashing at all.... and the back tyre was completely bald after 10 minutes of doing drifts in the carpark!

Anderson M5 on clay track (2 min 51 sec)

Anderson M5 Brushless Bike (3 min 17 sec)
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Last edited by K1w166; May 07, 2012 at 01:56 AM.
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Old May 07, 2012, 05:01 AM
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Australia, WA, Perth
Joined May 2012
6 Posts
In reply to some comments above
- the standard forks have no oil, and are not fillable. The rear one does, and is easily serviced.
- I was very disappointed with the aftermarket oil-filled forks, the design quality was very poor and I wasn't able to complete the build of the 2nd fork (one shaft shorter than the other; nylon stopper impossible to get the c-clip in and to stay in).
- Steering damper is a waste of money. I haven't tried it, my mate in the LHS did and promptly took it off.
- I too did not like the handling with the front wheel mounted forward. Was much less agile.
- I've stuck with the plastic spur gear, as it is the designed 'weak point' to break if stressed. Haven't had any problems with it breaking after big landings or crashes, the only one that I have broken did so from rapid acceleration on high traction grass.
- with my home made steering mods (linkage and servo), the crash bars are almost unnecessary. I made a couple of really short ones, just long enough so the rear wheel can touch the ground when lying on its side...
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Old May 07, 2012, 06:02 AM
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Manchester, UK
Joined Nov 2005
3,775 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by K1w166 View Post
Well, like many RTR's, the stock servo is rubbish - my guess is 6 or 8kg rated. Being a buggy racer, I had a spare Hitech 24kg servo in my pitbag so swapped that in. During this process, I looked at the linkage more carefully and noticed that because of the design, it could only ever turn half as much one way as the other - the piano wire hits the bike frame. So I took off the front number plate, put a threaded rod in where the holding screws for the plate were, and made my own swivel linkage so it now turns 100% both ways with no interference.
I'd be interested to see pictures of the new linkage. Did you use springs, or are you just relying on the new servo being tough enough to take it? Isn't the higher torque servo slower?
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Old May 07, 2012, 11:15 AM
RC Dirt Bike Action
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California central coast
Joined Feb 2010
1,763 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by K1w166 View Post
Here's a couple of vids post-modifications - one on grass at the local park, and one on our clay buggy track. Bear in mind it was middle of summer, and the clay track was very dry and dusty - traction almost nil. After one and a half batteries 'learning' the track, I was able to do full laps (albeit slow in places) without crashing at all.... and the back tyre was completely bald after 10 minutes of doing drifts in the carpark!
Considering your a buggy guy and you have a bald rear tire now, you should look into fitting a small pin rear 1/8th or 1/10 short course tire to your rear! See pg 2 of my thread Fixing up a DX450 for local dirt track

Im not sure of the linkage you had to make, I cant visualize it. I just bent the steering rod so it wouldnt bind when turning left. There is the outer hole too. I wonder if just linking up to outer hole would be just as good. (Just thinking out loud).
John
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