Our buddy Racer X got his yesterday, possibly the first consumer one in the U.S., since he was impatient and ordered it from Formby's (and paid a helluva premium for it). Like everyone has said, it does have some great potential out of the box, with a few weak spots. He's already bent up the tail from LiPo wheelies, so carbon struts are going in place (against my recommendations of using something lighter/cheaper like Dez's nylon rod or Steve's wire). The rear shock has been replaced with a Revo damper, steering springs replaced, forks flipped around, a steering damper is being fitted, and a Castle Mamba 5700 setup is on the way.

I would definitely use a temporary adhesive on the rear tire; my experience with Ricky bikes is that if you run it in a dusty area, the dust will work its way between the tire and wheel and you'll eventually get slippage. I suggest keeping away from the CA of any kind, and use RTV (Shoe Goo or equivalent) to bond the outside of the tire to the outside of the wheel. Even if you do it in just 6 spots around the tire on each side instead of a continuous bead, that is better than nothing. And it's easily removable when you need to get to the gyro internals.

We'll be running it on a loose dirt 1:10 off-road track on Friday -- looking forward to it!!!

Hi I need some help.I put the electrics out of the anderson in my TTe to see what the speed was like and it went great so they are not the reason my andersons so slow

I checked everything moves freely on the anderson the only thing that feels tight is the gyro but this might be normal if I lift the bike off the ground and give full throttle it takes about 20 seconds for the wheel to get to full speed is this normal or do I have a problem

Originally Posted by spenny

if I lift the bike off the ground and give full throttle it takes about 20 seconds for the wheel to get to full speed is this normal or do I have a problem

Is this with the gyro already spinning at close to full speed, or is this with everything at a complete stop? Until the gyro is up to speed it will put a greater draw on the motor slowing down your rear wheel...

Originally Posted by dmincin

Is this with the gyro already spinning at close to full speed, or is this with everything at a complete stop? Until the gyro is up to speed it will put a greater draw on the motor slowing down your rear wheel...

this is starting from a stand still

That's normal then, considering the gyro weight it has to accelerate (400g)and the gearing (around 5:1 overspeed) it is a hell of a job so yeah it takes a while to spin up, so just like my ARX540 I always rev mine up then stop the back wheel and set the bike off, sorted.

does anyone know if this 'high grip' front tyre option is a different, more efficient tread pattern or just a softer compound?

I got my bike running better today I think it was the batterys I tried a 3s lipo as thats all I have and its like a rocket it has loads of power on the grass you cant move it gets too much grip and just flips all the time

Originally Posted by KNEEBOY

does anyone know if this 'high grip' front tyre option is a different, more efficient tread pattern or just a softer compound?

The High Grip M5 option tyres, both front and rear, are the same pattern, just softer compounds, the kit ones work so well and last such a long time that a set of high grips will have to do well to beat them! Can't wait to try them myself!

Originally Posted by spenny

I got my bike running better today I think it was the batterys I tried a 3s lipo as thats all I have and its like a rocket it has loads of power on the grass you cant move it gets too much grip and just flips all the time

Can't see a lot in your video, sorry to say, apart from thge fact there's no rider figure.

Did you say 3S LiPo, what on kit electrics and ESC/motor and it handled it OK? Wow that would be impressive!
My standard one works just fine on 2S, can't wait to try it on 3S, unless you changed the ESC and motor first?? Did you?

hello!
whichever weight giroscope is but racing 0 2 4 or 5.
what grease for giroscope.

thanks

My Anderson oil shocks arrived yesterday from Formby Models, (thanks Steve) they work very very well, super smooth and very plush A bit of a mission to build as the o rings are held in with a C clip which is a nightmare to fit, you only get 2 of them so dont send them into orbit as you will never find them again ! as to how long the will last who knows, but its a good design and there is not any load on the piston rod or seals. There is no mention of the oil to use, I have stuck 20wt in there and it feels good, maybe could go a little lighter, just hope they dont leak as the oil would run down the inside of the fork leg and mix the dirt and make a right mess but they are a good price so worth giving them a go, and like I said they do work well.

Well I think this must of been made for a different bike as no way will it fit, it must be 20mm too long, such a shame as the forks were so nice. Will have a play and see if I can make it shorter, or may just do what I did on the oto and that is add some Tamiya friction grease on the steering rod, watch this space.

Are you saying that dampener is a vendor sold hop up that doesnt even match the bike?

Steve, I notice your front axle is still behind the centreline of the fork leg, try it forwards mate, much better steering as it's reduced trailing rake and still stable as it's a slightly longer wheel base and gives more clearance to the battery box.

Confused by the steering damper, is that the genuine M5 Cross upgrade that doesn't fit of just a thundertiger one you tried to modify?

Originally Posted by nobita

hello!
whichever weight giroscope is but racing 0 2 4 or 5.
what grease for giroscope.

thanks

I ran the gyro scope dry but for a tiny drop of oil on each planetary gear pivot pin, and removed all weights from the gyro and the clamp rings too, much better.