OK, you have linkage going to the elevon. Keeps the servos in closer away from the wingtips, which is good. Yep, that would be a solution.

That is a good idea but so far I haven't had any problems with my control horns breaking. Well.. Actually one did come out once but it was just a quick hot glue gun fix. The funny thing is I don't even have the control horns like is recommended. I cut them short because I thought they were too long I didn't realize they were supposed to stick out both sides with glue on each side which makes sense. Next one I build I can put everything I learned on this one into.

Man I love this plane...

Originally Posted by cliffo

OK, you have linkage going to the elevon. Keeps the servos in closer away from the wingtips, which is good. Yep, that would be a solution.

YEP. I thought I had a better picture of it somewhere but cant find it anywhere. Its just a stiff wire bent in 2 places. On end goes along the edge of the elevon and taped in place. Other end sticks up a bit with a control horn like old school torque rods did. I am very happy with this setup as it has proved very durable in very heavy combat useage.

Jon is talking about the servo arms and servo savers and I am talking about the nylon elevon horns. Opposite ends of the same push rod.

The 160 lb test nylon horns we are using are holding up better than the purchased molded horns we used to use. I have never broken one of the new horns but I have seen them broken. Considering what we do to them in combat I'm not surprised. It's part of the reason I'm glad to be done with the broken fins and balsa elevons.

I have had a couple of horns work loose in the foam and so I have been adding a little skewer of small piece of carbon to stiffen the foam and reinforce the horn which I showed in the video.

If someone breaks a horn I recommend that they don't cut it out just trim the tip off and cut a slit and put another one next to the broken one so that you can still do field repairs without ending up with a big hole in the elevon. These horns are hard to get out if glued in correctly.

I'm always looking for better ideas so if you have any speak up, we want to hear from you.

I picked up a new camera today at Best Buy. Panasonic HS250. High Def. I got a really good deal lol I'll probably be putting on some videos on youtube pretty soon. It's got this cool tracking thing where you just tap the subject and it follows it and focuses on it so it should be good for recording flights.

Got the shipment of my wings today (damn that was fast!). Stupid noob question: which side of the laminate gets ironed on the wing? I'm assuming it's the non-shiny side that has the adhesive.

Originally Posted by road_rascal

Got the shipment of my wings today (damn that was fast!). Stupid noob question: which side of the laminate gets ironed on the wing? I'm assuming it's the non-shiny side that has the adhesive.

Your right, the non shiny side of the laminate goes towards the foam. It will stick to the EPP even without a spray adhesive.

Lee

That's what I thought but I wasn't sure. Thanks!

No.. .. the picture is without focus, we can not see the links details..

Originally Posted by JONBOYLEMON

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=730

Does that help??

Could you please post some pictures details?

Tks,

Originally Posted by Telemachus

I had my first in flight failure, which involved the servo arm ON THE SERVO itself snapping off in flight. This was on the side where instead of replacing the servo horn when it broke, I epoxied it to another horn that I stuck in there. It turned into a VERY rigid fixture.

What I have found is that the zip-tie horns actually take the abuse well and snap if needed, saving the servos and servo arms. Too rigid, and something else along the way down will snap.

Hi friends,

Sometime ago I went to the www.utahflyers.org and got LeeŽs foam cutting tutorial and found plans to be used.
I made the Assassin airfoil using an airfoil similar to the Clark Y 18%, as the following instructions:

“8. Make your one piece jig as described in the foam cutting text using the top of the SD7032 airfoil over
the bottom of the SD6060 enlarged to 9".

My foam cutter has 39" cutting area, and IŽll follow LeeŽs instructions to cut the cores without variation,
As IŽll cut a wing with is 24" long, that means the anchor will be around 48" from the jig.

IŽve already tried to cut the cores some time ago, but when I were cutting with my foam cutter, I was lazy
in the cutting speed and I damaged the foam. Now I have tu buy a new block and try again..

Below some pictures from my foam cutter and the first wing I did (not the assassin yet ) Also a picture from the jig I did.

Thanks again Lee for all of your help.

Happy New Year for all!!

I forgot...

Also a picture from the jig I did:

I just bought a couple of these to tape to the Assassin, Titan, and Roswell for some bird's eye video. I have been waiting for a light and simple video camera that is a start and fly to get the effect of hitting streamers and flying limbo that wasn't so expensive that I would feel bad if they got destroyed.

I know our club is ordering several so it should add some fun video to these sites.

http://www.chucklohr.com/808/#SystemMode

What great fun! In-flight battle video from multiple viewpoints will be a blast, and these new Keychain cams have the lens in a much more convenient spot then my gum-stick cam.

Check out this video made with one of these key chain cameras. http://exposureroom.com/members/Flyp...f271ca77e739d/ I hope we can remedy the wavy problem when under power.