I suppose you could, but you'd have to bend the motor mount at an acute angle, and flight characteristics may not be spot on without bending and re-bending to get the proper angle.

You know reversing the shaft is not only easy, but you can put it back into its original place later without any damage. I'd recommend that long before bending the motor mount to try to mount it on top.

Alternatively, you could cut or melt out a small slot in the center of the trailing edge (but make sure not to cut your shock cord). That way the shaft fits into the slot, and you could use the hardware pack on the back. I've done that on two of my larger planes. Not sure how well it would work on something as small as an Assassin or WM

Yeah, why don't you just use the bolt on prop adapter and attach the prop to the front of the motor with the shaft pointing out the back?

Originally Posted by zmonster97

Yeah, why don't you just use the bolt on prop adapter and attach the prop to the front of the motor with the shaft pointing out the back?

by "back," i think he means the back of the motor, which would be facing towards the front of the wing, in that configuration. Just to clarify.

Still, though, IMO tapping the shaft through is the best recommendation.

+1

Mounting the motor on top of the wing possibly introduces issues with the thrust line.
The higher off center, the more issues. Bigger more powerful motor, even more so...

Originally Posted by elCapitan

by "back," i think he means the back of the motor, which would be facing towards the front of the wing, in that configuration. Just to clarify.

Still, though, IMO tapping the shaft through is the best recommendation.

I'm saying just bolt the motor in front of the angle motor mount, like your suppose to, and then use the bolt on prop adapter on the front of the motor(facing towards the back of the plane). Simple.

Like this.

Yeah, I guess on a WM or Assassin (although I don't have one in front of me to look at) the trailing edge is thin enough that the shaft is over the top of the foam, huh? And if it isn't, like I said, you can just cut a small notch in the foam for the shaft to spin freely.

Originally Posted by Left Coast DJ

Attaching the motor mount on top gets me the space to attach the motor - which is designed to go behind the firewall rather than in front. I'd rather not mess with reversing the shaft on the motor if attaching mount on top will work.

Why not use the Prop Adapter

I am running an NTM 28 series just fine mounted on bottom.

Originally we used the Razor 400 motors (can design not outrunner) and mounted them behind the mount or on a mount built into the back of the wing. We installed the spar farther forward and cut out the space for the motor on the back of the wing. Mounting a motor this way causes problems with inserting the shock cord and actually the motor cut out weakened the back of the wing even more.

The bottom of the wing is designed to be 90 degrees to the thrust line of the motor but this will change if the point of thrust if the motor is significantly higher or lower.

For example: a motor over the wing will tend to push the nose down and under the back of the wing will tend to push the nose up. Is this a problem??? You will have to adjust the motor angle to get the thrust line right.

Look at the motor angle on our Albatross. This is all to compensate for thrust angle.

Hi friends,

Remember that I lost an Assassin a few days ago? So, I discovered what caused my wing lost: brownout of the ESC
As I was using the garbage Hobbyking 25 30a esc, it could not feed properly
the servos and Optima 6 Receiver

As I have a new Assassin and dont want to loose also it, so I bought the following a GWS ESC:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...4S_3A_BEC.html

Is it good or I need something better?

My setup is:

CF2812 with 7x6
2 x mg90 servos
3s 1000 mah lipo
Optima 6
Hitec Aurora 9

Thank you,
Luis

´Here what a friend post to me:

You would need only one ESC with a switching-BEC.

The main power outlet of that ESC should have, let's say, 40 Amp, combined with a switching-BEC of 3 Amp power outlet, maximum peak at least 5 Amp, that would be sufficient. But, you shoul by an ESC of good quality, I personally have made good experiences with the "sentry"-series of Hobbyking.

Solder the extra-cable, which came with the receiver to the ESC-side of the connection socket between the Battery and the ESC and put the socket of that cable into the SPC-socket of the receiver, put the other, normal socket of the ESC into the normal "motor"-port of the receiver ....... that's all.

Now you power your receiver (but only the receiver, not the servos!) directly with the voltage of your battery, the effect is, that a brownout from that battery can't happen, because the whole power of your battery powers your receiver directly, the other effect is, that the receiver knows this way the voltage of your main battery and this inforamtion will be send to your radio, where you will have this interesting information. Set a warning level for this voltage according to the number of cells.

On the other hand, your servos are still driven/operated by the BEC-part of your ESC. You will have no problems with this configuration.

Udo

Hi Lee / friends,

Take a look please where I installed my motor. It´s not in the middle, once in my lost wing it was so near the floor, and when landing the asphalt could hurt the motor, so I decided to put it a few higher in my new wing. What thrust angle do I need to put? Or leave as it is, with 90º ?

This is my new Assassin, I´ll use Optima 6 on it, and I still need a good esc bec

Thank you so much,
Luis

Originally Posted by Lee

Originally we used the Razor 400 motors (can design not outrunner) and mounted them behind the mount or on a mount built into the back of the wing. We installed the spar farther forward and cut out the space for the motor on the back of the wing. Mounting a motor this way causes problems with inserting the shock cord and actually the motor cut out weakened the back of the wing even more.

The bottom of the wing is designed to be 90 degrees to the thrust line of the motor but this will change if the point of thrust if the motor is significantly higher or lower.

For example: a motor over the wing will tend to push the nose down and under the back of the wing will tend to push the nose up. Is this a problem??? You will have to adjust the motor angle to get the thrust line right.

Look at the motor angle on our Albatross. This is all to compensate for thrust angle.

The thrust angle is a trial and error thing.
Usually works best at 0 degrees but with it mounted high like that you may see issues.
Get your plane trimmed in and flying level at around half throttle.
Whack the throttle open and watch for abrupt attitude changes.
If it noses down, bend the mount so the motor angle slightly upward.

That's one thing the steel motor mount that comes in the Assassin kit is really good for.
It can be bent and rebent many times before the metal is fatigued enough to cause a problem.

The GWS ESC will probably be fine.
But I've never had a problem with the HK25-30 Card Programmable ESCs running the 2812 motor.

What material do you guys use for streamers?

Streamers!? Man, with these Assassins, "combat" is full contact. KNOCK each other out of the sky!!!

(but I have used regular party streamer on my Albatross for people to come try to cut)

Originally Posted by elCapitan

Streamers!? Man, with these Assassins, "combat" is full contact. KNOCK each other out of the sky!!!

Normally that's what we do, but the video of the Roswell with streamers looks like so much fun, we thought we'd give it a try.