Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old May 07, 2012, 06:18 PM
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Gotcha'

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Originally Posted by elCapitan View Post
Eh, true, I guess. If I'm already ordering something from HeadsUpRC or another place that has them that cheap, and I have an extra few bucks, I might order a couple, but I probably wouldn't go out of my way, is what I'm saying.
But, again, what makes this motor a value is keeping it going and when you bend the shaft, well, while you're shopping you might as well get one or two.
http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...fts/Categories
One stop shopping it appears...
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Old May 07, 2012, 06:25 PM
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Didn't mean to do that

Quote:
Originally Posted by jetpackninja View Post
Yeah- honestly- the little red motors are disposable at their price.
But once you rewound one and brought it back to life, unless the bell is bent or the stator is shot, you can replace the shaft, the bearings and the windings very inexpensively and have a motor that really is better than new. It's not something for nothing- but it's definitely worth doing, at least for me.

Chico-
Each motor has two bearings

I think the one on top of the stator is actually this size
http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...--3mm-x/Detail

and the one in the base of the motor has changed from time to time
I think the newer ones use the 8mm and the older ones use the 7mm

Is it worth putting 10 dollar sealed bearings in there NO
Is it worth swapping one out for 99 cents or a buck fiddy YES
Meant to add the two different sizes. Does make it a better than new motor with all the replacement parts and modifications. If you aren't rewinding then yes it is just a easy to replace it but after a rewind it's no longer a throw away.
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Old May 07, 2012, 08:14 PM
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Tom Eutsler's Avatar
Asheville,NC
Joined Jun 2002
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Next Two Teeth Rewind Question

After winding Phase 1 , two teeth on top and the two 180 deg's from those

If I can figure out how to ask ? The next two adjacent teeth- are they wound opposite from the two teeth just finished ?

eg if Ya wind on top two teeth , winding going inside the teeth - does the next Phase [2] adjacent to those , start with winding , going around the outside - then moving 180 deg and wind those going thru the inside

Hmmm if this makes sense ? ..............te

I suppose best way is to look closely at the windings on the one I am about to remove the windings from
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Last edited by Tom Eutsler; May 07, 2012 at 08:16 PM. Reason: not finished
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Old May 07, 2012, 08:44 PM
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elCapitan's Avatar
United States, UT, Provo
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I get what you're saying. If you were to keep numbering the teeth in my sketch, and #5 and #6 were right next to #1 and #2, would you wind them just like the adjacent #1 and #2 (towards each other), or would you wind them like #3 and #4 (away from each other)?

I did them the same as #1 and #2, and mine runs great.

Does it make a difference? I don't know, and since I found a way it works, I don't plan on trying. If someone else did it by alternating, and theirs works, maybe they can chime in.
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Old May 07, 2012, 10:35 PM
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United States, OH, Urbana
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I think of the numbering scheme as the teeth numbered in order around the stator. This conflicts with elCapitan's diagram in post #5149.

I would think that you always want to alternate one pair wound in next to one pair wound out. I start winding the next phase on a pair of teeth adjacent to the first phase pair I ended on. So if you start winding phase one in on teeth 1 and 2 and move to the opposite side of the stator to wind out on teeth 7 and 8 to finish phase one. When you start phase two, you would want to start winding in on either teeth 5 and 6 or teeth 9 and 10. My personal choice is to start the second phase on teeth 5 and 6 because as I wrap the wire clockwise around the hub to finish on teeth 11 and 12, the phase two wire holds the loose ending wire from phase one to the hub.

Pretty tricky to describe in words I guess...
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Old May 07, 2012, 10:56 PM
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On the diagram, I was numbering the order in which they're wound, thinking more like instructions, but whatever works for you.

As far as where to start the second pair, apparently it doesn't matter, because yours work and mine work too. Interesting. I wish I understood the precise science behind it.

I was curious, and figured out the patterns for our two ways of doing it. If you looked at each individual tooth, in order, around the whole thing, they'd look like this:

three inward pairs together, three outward pairs opposite:
RLRLRLLRLRLR

inward pair next to outward pair, alternating:
RLLRRLLRRLLR

Any scientists or physicists in the group?
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Old May 08, 2012, 05:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdmowrey View Post
I think of the numbering scheme as the teeth numbered in order around the stator. This conflicts with elCapitan's diagram in post #5149.

I would think that you always want to alternate one pair wound in next to one pair wound out. I start winding the next phase on a pair of teeth adjacent to the first phase pair I ended on. So if you start winding phase one in on teeth 1 and 2 and move to the opposite side of the stator to wind out on teeth 7 and 8 to finish phase one. When you start phase two, you would want to start winding in on either teeth 5 and 6 or teeth 9 and 10. My personal choice is to start the second phase on teeth 5 and 6 because as I wrap the wire clockwise around the hub to finish on teeth 11 and 12, the phase two wire holds the loose ending wire from phase one to the hub.

Pretty tricky to describe in words I guess...
I think elcapitan's post says this same thing, but the three pair where you start each wind should be adjacent, or at least that's how I've done my 6 successful winds.
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Old May 08, 2012, 06:42 AM
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Pierre, SD, USA
Joined Dec 2001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elCapitan View Post
Here's a second version, that may help clear up what you were asking about, Tom
Thanks, maybe now I can get a rewind to run ....................................maybe!

nut
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Old May 08, 2012, 10:29 AM
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Asheville,NC
Joined Jun 2002
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DeWind 2812

Well , it took me about 30 min to remove wire from the armature . I wanted to follow the wind process, but found the 3 wires coming off of the motor , contained 3 wires within . It look as though 3 wires were around every other tooth , but cud not be sure . There was some type of Glue used on the wire , in a groove in front of the teeth .Glad I kept going round and round , as I found a couple of broken off pieces of wire in the glue which most likely caused a short or mal function

I broke tip off a # 11 blade[to use as a digger and not jam point in finger] and had to keep digging round and round, so as to free up the embedded wire - which made it impossible to follow the wind job . I ended up with a rat's nest of wire .

Now, to take this nice diagram - watch vid again and see if I can Rewind the 2812

................te
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Old May 08, 2012, 10:36 AM
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United States, UT, Provo
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Yeah, honestly, I think getting the original wire off, along with all that glue, was the most difficult part of the process for me. I used a razor blade too, but I have the retractable, break-off kind. A 10-pack of blades is about $2 at Harbor Freight, so I didn't care much about ruining one blade section.
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Old May 08, 2012, 11:02 AM
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Ferndale WA
Joined Dec 2006
137 Posts
First Assassin Maiden

I finally got to maiden my first Assassin today. It was good and here is how it went.
I tossed it a few times into some tall grass and it immediately dove down. After two tosses with the same result, I increased the reflex a little. The next toss was much better and I figured it was ready to fly.
So I walked to an area of the field where I was farther from any barbed wire fences and checked the wind. It was blowing about 5 to 8 mph I would guess.
My first try was from a wingtip hold and after giving it some throttle, I let it go and it flew!
My time today was mainly just making short loop flights adjusting the elevator a little. I probably launched it 5 to 6 times and after that I wasnít sure of the battery life left and decided to quit while I was ahead. I tried both wingtip holds and tossing it overhead and for a first day I am very pleased.
One wingtip hold launch went bad and it happened before I could stop the motor and the prop did make contact with the TE inboard of the elevons but no bad damage. It just cut the laminate a little.
I did experience the yaw you guys have talked about. It was kind of like porpoising from side to side but I didnít know if it was because I was keeping the speed down and it was flying downwind at the time. I didnít experience the yaw going upwind. If it had more throttle it would have been making better headway on its downwind run. Does the yaw indicate a CG too aft of 6.5Ē?
I was keeping the throttle down but I was amazed at how little noise it made.
Here are the stats:
AUW = 17.7 oz.
Motor = CF2812 from Heads Up Hobby
ESC = Exceed Proton 30A from Hobby Partz with a 25A auto fuse in line between ESC and battery
Rx= Power Up 6 channel from Heads Up Hobby
Servos = Hitec HS 82 MG from Heads Up Hobby
Battery = Turnigy 1300 mah from Hobby King
Prop = APC 7 x 6 E

I had a hard time keeping the weight down, and the battery ended up closer to the nose than I wanted.
Anyway here are a couple of pictures and I am really looking forward to flying this plane again. It is so nice to have a plane that can handle a little wind and a few bumps and still be ready to fly again.
Thank you Lee for a wonderfully designed plane! I love it!
This is the greatest hobby. I can hardly wait to get more familiar with my Assassin and start playing some games to sharpen my flying skills.
Cheers,
David
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Old May 08, 2012, 12:18 PM
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Richmond, TX
Joined Apr 2008
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Looks nice and clean. How did you get the red on the bottom? Laminate over covering or covering over laminate?

The wobble can be caused by a CG too far back, but can also be caused by too much elevon throw. Some wobble without fins is to be expected (in my experience).

Your battery position is about what I have experienced in all of my builds. no probs there. You can lighten the aircraft by going with lighter servos and reducing the amount of tape used, but it doesn't look like you went overboard in the tape or decor areas.
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Old May 08, 2012, 01:42 PM
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Asheville,NC
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Finished Rewind

Don't know if it will work or not - will find out shortly Had to back up several times as CRS kicked in , to find out how many turns were on the tooth .Then noticed my phase two was not exactly 180 deg from start , so started over on that phase ..
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Old May 08, 2012, 01:48 PM
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Gravity Sucks
Joined Aug 2010
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Tom- Doesn't look right and if you hadn't used a different color of wire for each phase I may not have noticed. The end of one phase, should pick up the beginning of the next phase.
I'll see if I can find a pic that illustrates what I'm talking about- if not I may have to break out the crayons...
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Old May 08, 2012, 01:54 PM
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United States, UT, Provo
Joined Oct 2011
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Can't really tell about the winds on the teeth, but my guess is the winds are correct, but the twists are wrong. As far as twisting together sets of two wires to make the leads, I think you tried to get the ends of each wound pair together, when you really need to get adjacent wires together. (Remember how at the end of the video, the guy spins the stator on the table and says "it doesn't matter" if you lose track, just pick two adjacent wires?)

So, according to your colors, you should have a green/yellow, a red/green, and a yellow/red twist. In other words, once all the teeth are wound, forget about pairs and patterns. Just pick a loose wire, and twist it together with the wire right next to it.
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