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Old Dec 30, 2011, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by KC Flyer View Post
Are you still liking the rewound CF2812?

Regarding bearings, make sure you don't tighten the set screws that hold stator to motor mount too tight or you will warp the bearing tube and trash the bearings according to Lee.

I periodically take out my (stock) bearings, soak in laquer thinner, spin around to get the crud out, let dry and then add Scorpion Lube:

http://www.gobrushless.com/shop/inde...dshow&ref=LUBE

They say to add a drop of oil to each bearing every month or 50 flights. I usually do the cleaning part first and get quite a bit of dirt/particulates out - afterwards the thinner is fairly dark with little black specs on the bottom.

I've not worn out a stock bearing yet and have 100's of flights on them.

If I were to upgrade, I would consider the higher dollar ceramics - especially for the small bearing. But I've had such good luck with the stock ones so far so haven't seen the need.

BTW, I took out and cleaned/oiled the bearings in my Assassin last night and found that the set screw that holds the bell to the shaft was missing. It seemed to work fine without it (?) but I added a new one with some Loctite this time.

Good Luck!
The rewound motor is awesome. We actually took another assassin at the club out who put a hacker 1400kv and they looked to have about the same power. Unlimited vertical and crazy speed. I might have cranked down hard on the motor mount, I'll have to check if it's warped.

The bearings sound a little crunchy, but are still working. It may have been the crash that got them as well. . I have two out with bad bearings now though. One's really crunchy and the other fell out the back on my friend's that crashed.
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Old Dec 30, 2011, 12:45 PM
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United States, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E1Allen View Post
Here is my wing after I added some color to it. I tried to show where I placed my battery and electronics since I used a 2200mah battery and a larger esc/motor combination. Hopefully someone can get a idea of where things need to be for a proper CG with this setup.

Eric
nice looking scheme. what is yor present cg. you may have to add some lead like I had to if your motor is heavy and your battery isn't too far forward. My widowmaker is flying well at 20.8 Oz.
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Old Dec 30, 2011, 01:04 PM
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Joined Jun 2009
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Bearings

Quote:
Originally Posted by KC Flyer View Post
Are you still liking the rewound CF2812?

Regarding bearings, make sure you don't tighten the set screws that hold stator to motor mount too tight or you will warp the bearing tube and trash the bearings according to Lee.

I periodically take out my (stock) bearings, soak in laquer thinner, spin around to get the crud out, let dry and then add Scorpion Lube:

http://www.gobrushless.com/shop/inde...dshow&ref=LUBE

They say to add a drop of oil to each bearing every month or 50 flights. I usually do the cleaning part first and get quite a bit of dirt/particulates out - afterwards the thinner is fairly dark with little black specs on the bottom.

I've not worn out a stock bearing yet and have 100's of flights on them.

If I were to upgrade, I would consider the higher dollar ceramics - especially for the small bearing. But I've had such good luck with the stock ones so far so haven't seen the need.

BTW, I took out and cleaned/oiled the bearings in my Assassin last night and found that the set screw that holds the bell to the shaft was missing. It seemed to work fine without it (?) but I added a new one with some Loctite this time.

Good Luck!
Aren't the bearings sealed? I don't have a microscope or anything but a close up look doesn't reveal the bearings, they're covered.
Anyway I don't thingk I'd soak them in a cleaner because you can never be sure the cleaning product has been fully flushed before relubing them. If you can get to the bearings then instead of soaking them in a cleaning agent instead just soak and flush them in the lubricant. This will flush and lube the bearings without the worry of having a neutralizer in the mix.
As to killing the bearings, excessive torque is distorting the outer race of the bearing due to over torque of the 2 set screws. This turns a round bearing race into an oval pintching and overheating the balls. Just use two fingers to torque the allen head screw, any wrist or elbow torque will be too much. And always use lock tite, the blue product works best.
I have got to rewind a motor.
Good luck
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Old Dec 30, 2011, 01:18 PM
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Proper CG

Quote:
Originally Posted by E1Allen View Post
Here is my wing after I added some color to it. I tried to show where I placed my battery and electronics since I used a 2200mah battery and a larger esc/motor combination. Hopefully someone can get a idea of where things need to be for a proper CG with this setup.

Eric
Isn't the recomended battery location supposed to be close to 2-1/2" from the nose? With the motor you're using and the battery where it is the CG doesn't change Allen. In other words, hang the plane from the CG point on the wing and add weight to the nose until the wing is level, even with a touch of nose-down to it.
Note that it doesn't matter if the wing is upside down or upright, just find a way to hang it from the 6-1/2" point from the nose. I opened up an area ahead of the battery and added lead then hot glued it in place.
And so the further back the battery is or the bigger, heavyier, the motor the more weight has to be added to the nose. Avoid a tail heavy wing, they don't fly well.
Does that answer make sence to you Eric?
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Old Dec 30, 2011, 01:30 PM
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Lee's Summit, MO USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whomprat View Post
The rewound motor is awesome. We actually took another assassin at the club out who put a hacker 1400kv and they looked to have about the same power. Unlimited vertical and crazy speed.
Good to hear!

I rewound another last night for my new CTH Snowball - 25 ga MD wire with 11 turns. I have some 8x4e props on order since it's supposed to be more of a 3d flyer.

I did this more out of curiousity since I don't expect a much different Kv. But definitely more copper than stock so maybe a higher efficiency and a little higher top end.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chico John View Post
Aren't the bearings sealed? I don't have a microscope or anything but a close up look doesn't reveal the bearings, they're covered.

Anyway I don't think I'd soak them in a cleaner because you can never be sure the cleaning product has been fully flushed before relubing them. If you can get to the bearings then instead of soaking them in a cleaning agent instead just soak and flush them in the lubricant. This will flush and lube the bearings without the worry of having a neutralizer in the mix.
They are covered as you say but dirt/grit gets in - especially when they have lube. So I guess they are not sealed.

So lube attracts dirt but no lube speeds up wear - I choose the lube option and periodically clean them.

Soaking in just oil would probably be OK but it may not cut the residue as well?

Laquer thinner dries pretty quick but I still let mine dry overnight before oiling and putting back together. I think I'll continue with this method since no failures so far.
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Old Dec 30, 2011, 01:30 PM
Big Jim
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United States, ID, Mountain Home
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Take a stapel used to holdthe push rods, hot glue it in at the CG per the data.
Then hang it on a string, Then place the bat and cut it in when balanced.
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Old Dec 30, 2011, 01:32 PM
Lee
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I have broken several bearings from over tightening. I use 3mm hex head screws hat have about a 6mm length instead of the set screws that come with the motor because I kept stripping those tiny Allen's head set screws. I use Locktite.

I occasionally spray the bearings with WD40 mostly because I am too lazy to put too much effort into a motor that only costs $6. I bend more shafts and bells in combat than I have broken bearings. It is a small price to pay for the insane fun of combat.
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Old Dec 30, 2011, 01:36 PM
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Balanced

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Originally Posted by RTF Thumper View Post
Take a stapel used to holdthe push rods, hot glue it in at the CG per the data.
Then hang it on a string, Then place the bat and cut it in when balanced.
I was just going to ask you to repost the picture.

People: This is a properly balanced wing!!!!!
Happy New Year

Good music selections on the vids there Thumper.
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Old Dec 30, 2011, 01:42 PM
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If it works then.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by KC Flyer View Post
Good to hear!

I rewound another last night for my new CTH Snowball - 25 ga MD wire with 11 turns. I have some 8x4e props on order since it's supposed to be more of a 3d flyer.

I did this more out of curiousity since I don't expect a much different Kv. But definitely more copper than stock so maybe a higher efficiency and a little higher top end.



They are covered as you say but dirt/grit gets in - especially when they have lube. So I guess they are not sealed.

So lube attracts dirt but no lube speeds up wear - I choose the lube option and periodically clean them.

Soaking in just oil would probably be OK but it may not cut the residue as well?

Laquer thinner dries pretty quick but I still let mine dry overnight before oiling and putting back together. I think I'll continue with this method since no failures so far.
We did talk about WD-40 sometime back and oil attracting dirt.
WD-40 might work for you as a final cleaning agent. WD= Water Displacement Test # 40.
WD-40 is a cleaner and displaces moisture, maybe that will remove the exterior residue and stop attracting the dirt. Maybe a prewash too.
But if it's working keep doing it!
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Old Dec 30, 2011, 01:59 PM
"Still Crashing since 1960"
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Pierre, SD, USA
Joined Dec 2001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee View Post
Oops wrong thread but you may enjoy a Slow fly video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiRG0b4ofBk
Lee do you have a thread for these planes?

nut
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Old Dec 30, 2011, 02:22 PM
Lee
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USA, UT, Orem
Joined Jul 2004
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I designed the Slow Flyers for some club members that just couldn't master some of the faster planes but wanted something that would be durable and fly quiet and slow in small neighborhood parks.

These planes will level them selves side to side and will put their nose on the horizon even when they are started from inverted flight and have to turn themselves over.

These slow fly planes were beta tested by a university engineering RC club, most of whom had never flown before and everyone could fly the plane on the first day out.

Here is the thread.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1538751
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Old Dec 30, 2011, 02:36 PM
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United States, KY, Fort Campbell
Joined Jan 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chico John View Post
Isn't the recomended battery location supposed to be close to 2-1/2" from the nose? With the motor you're using and the battery where it is the CG doesn't change Allen. In other words, hang the plane from the CG point on the wing and add weight to the nose until the wing is level, even with a touch of nose-down to it.
Note that it doesn't matter if the wing is upside down or upright, just find a way to hang it from the 6-1/2" point from the nose. I opened up an area ahead of the battery and added lead then hot glued it in place.
And so the further back the battery is or the bigger, heavyier, the motor the more weight has to be added to the nose. Avoid a tail heavy wing, they don't fly well.
Does that answer make sence to you Eric?
The motor is not that much heavier than the recommended, maybe .4oz. The battery is much heavier than the recommended battery. Instead of putting the battery 2.5"back then adding weight t o make it level I just moved the battery back. I hung the wing from the ceiling to balance it. The wing is level 6.5in back. I didn't require any lead surprisingly and AUW is 20oz
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Old Dec 30, 2011, 03:13 PM
Big Jim
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United States, ID, Mountain Home
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E1Allen View Post
The motor is not that much heavier than the recommended, maybe .4oz. The battery is much heavier than the recommended battery. Instead of putting the battery 2.5"back then adding weight t o make it level I just moved the battery back. I hung the wing from the ceiling to balance it. The wing is level 6.5in back. I didn't require any lead surprisingly and AUW is 20oz
your almost there now set in a index finger thickness of reflux and your set. She will scream good luck and post a vid, love those vids lol
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Old Dec 30, 2011, 03:20 PM
Big Jim
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United States, ID, Mountain Home
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chico John View Post
I was just going to ask you to repost the picture.

People: This is a properly balanced wing!!!!!
Happy New Year

Good music selections on the vids there Thumper.
Thanks Chico My buds listened to every word and both Assassins came in under 19 OZ. They have only been flying for three months and the only other plane they have flown was the 3 channel Champ. They did great
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Old Dec 30, 2011, 03:45 PM
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Good luck

Quote:
Originally Posted by E1Allen View Post
The motor is not that much heavier than the recommended, maybe .4oz. The battery is much heavier than the recommended battery. Instead of putting the battery 2.5"back then adding weight t o make it level I just moved the battery back. I hung the wing from the ceiling to balance it. The wing is level 6.5in back. I didn't require any lead surprisingly and AUW is 20oz
Then fly that sucker and good luck it's balanced and will fly just fine. Just limit your elevon throw to about 3/8" each way.
Good looking build you're going to have a blast.
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