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Old Oct 01, 2011, 12:34 PM
Big Jim
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United States, ID, Mountain Home
Joined Jun 2011
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My first build

I want to make sure this looks right before final install, waiting on the ESC,Prop,battery and prop saver. Double laminated elvons and motor on
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 02:02 PM
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It looks ok, but if I could make a suggestion. It's not critical, but your battery is going to want to be sort of where your receiver is, but on center. If it were me, I would move the whole line back, and spread the servos out a little more. This keeps the rods shorter, marginally less weight, and less flex on the rods. Plus, theoretically, the more off the end of the elevons you can glue the horns, the less apt they are to flex a little under wind load. Now all these things are just little details, so totally up to your preference.

The bomb drop servo can go basicallly anywhere, but again, the shorter the rod, the less weight. And, if your electronics line is a little wider from servo to servo, it leaves room to work the receiver in the same line and give the battery more room in front.

Pat
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 04:25 PM
-S-
Just one more..... Just one...
United States, TX, Henderson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTF Thumper View Post
I want to make sure this looks right before final install, waiting on the ESC,Prop,battery and prop saver. Double laminated elvons and motor on
RTF - I'm far from and expert I've only built one and I love it!

But I agree with wheel spinner, I'd wait till you have ALL your equipment before you make any cuts.

Im not sure if you have batteries yet or not, but these guys are a tad LIGHTER at 1800 Mah then the HobbyPartz 1300 http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...-30C-EZ/Detail

Lay everything out and hang it to balance, (even your linkage and all adapters) there is very little room for error in balancing these guys the slightest bit off usually requires a lot of weight to make it up, in my limited experience but I must say mine flies GREAT!

Good luck I know you will love it!

-S-
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Old Oct 02, 2011, 02:59 PM
Lee
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Looks like a good start.

A flying wing will not fly tail heavy. Moving your battery forward or back is usually how you adjust your CG.

I see a lot of tail heavy planes (CG must be from 6.25' to 6.5" back from the nose)

I also see a lot of planes with too much movement and linkages that are not secure.
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Old Oct 02, 2011, 10:32 PM
Big Jim
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United States, ID, Mountain Home
Joined Jun 2011
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Originally Posted by Lee View Post
Looks like a good start.

A flying wing will not fly tail heavy. Moving your battery forward or back is usually how you adjust your CG.

I see a lot of tail heavy planes (CG must be from 6.25' to 6.5" back from the nose)

I also see a lot of planes with too much movement and linkages that are not secure.
I will get the servos in tight but how deep? I have the screw holes flush with the surface should I sink them deeper. Found Scotch Extreme Tape at home Depot. Looks like the tape that was around the laminate in my kit. this tape is 1.9 inches wide. Do I use the whole width or cut it in half to one inch? And one last question the laminate in the kit is this the same as monocote? and my kit has metal stapel like hoops are these to be used as push rod guides?
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Old Oct 02, 2011, 10:41 PM
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I will get the servos in tight but how deep?
I like to get the tabs of the servos just below the foam and enough to put some hot glue over them. Deep enough so they aren't sticking up too much (important if you are gonna fly combat) But not so deep that the servo arm or the control rods drag on the surface of the wing.
Do I use the whole width or cut it in half to one inch?
Strip it in half to save weight.
the laminate in the kit is this the same as monocote
Nope, it's the stuff used by heat laminating machines
my kit has metal stapel like hoops are these to be used as push rod guides?
Yup- that's exactly what they are for
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Old Oct 02, 2011, 10:48 PM
Big Jim
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United States, ID, Mountain Home
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Originally Posted by jetpackninja View Post
I will get the servos in tight but how deep?
I like to get the tabs of the servos just below the foam and enough to put some hot glue over them. Deep enough so they aren't sticking up too much (important if you are gonna fly combat) But not so deep that the servo arm or the control rods drag on the surface of the wing.
Do I use the whole width or cut it in half to one inch?
Strip it in half to save weight.
the laminate in the kit is this the same as monocote
Nope, it's the stuff used by heat laminating machines
my kit has metal stapel like hoops are these to be used as push rod guides?
Yup- that's exactly what they are for
Thanks much will have the Elrons on in the AM and will laminate over the tape. Just waiting on HK for prop, prop saver, Battery and ESC.
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 02:29 AM
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Hi there,

I'm interested in getting either assassin/widowmaker or perhaps reaper , but I only have experience in flying ms swift ll & techone popwing and both no require of laminating the surface. I was wondering it is possible to build it w/o the laminate? it seems like a bit of work for me and I have almost everything ready beside the laminate thingy, its hard to find in Singapore. Btw I'm not combat but more like a glider guy, wot - chase thermal - slowly glide down then repeat.

p.s. I do have few gliders from 1.4-2m

Regards,
Edwin.K
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 08:11 AM
Lee
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Originally Posted by edwin3162 View Post
Hi there,

I'm interested in getting either assassin/widowmaker or perhaps reaper , but I only have experience in flying ms swift ll & techone popwing and both no require of laminating the surface. I was wondering it is possible to build it w/o the laminate? it seems like a bit of work for me and I have almost everything ready beside the laminate thingy, its hard to find in Singapore. Btw I'm not combat but more like a glider guy, wot - chase thermal - slowly glide down then repeat.

p.s. I do have few gliders from 1.4-2m

Regards,
Edwin.K
Laminating is not a big deal and is well worth the effort. It adds tremendous strength for the weight and protects the foam from dirt and moisture. Applying laminate is like ironing a shirt. You lay the laminate on the wing and iron it down. It is what gives the elevons their strength.

The Widowmaker and the Reaper are the most durable gliders you will find, but the Assassin is designed to be the toughest plane on the market and is designed to knock down trees and walls.
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 10:21 AM
swede
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United States, UT, Vineyard
Joined Aug 2005
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I agree with Lee on everything except for the analogy of the shirt.

Putting laminate on the plane is like putting the shirt on. Sure, you could go without a shirt. But there are only a few times that would actually work. You would look pretty stupid the rest of the time.
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 11:06 AM
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Hi Edwin- The laminate thingy shouldn't be to hard to find in Singapore. It can be had from almost any Hobby Shop and will be called a Monocote iron, covering iron, or Hobby iron. If by some chance you can't find one you could use the same iron that you use to iron your shirts with, just make sure the "sticky" side of the lam goes next to your plane

If you are looking for a plane that glides well, you will likely be happier with the Widowmaker or the Grim Reaper.
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 11:11 AM
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I agree with Lee as well...I would put laminate on as it not only adds to the strength of the plane, but its needed to keep the outside tips of the wing from twisting.

I just rebuilt my assassin and grim reaper. I opted to NOT use any extreme tape though. The weight that it adds was just way too much for MY needs. I do not combat either wing. They are strictly FPV planes that typically do not see extreme forces.

I noticed that both fly MUCH MUCH better being lighter in weight. Maybe a little to light now in high winds as they bounce a lot more.

As far as CG goes... I can attest to being able to fly the wings in a VERY wide range of CG. My grim was excessively nose heavy. So much that when landing, I had zero ability to flare when needed. Full up elevator was applied and it would come in flat and fast. After my rebuild, moving the CG back over an inch and lightening the plane considerably (using a single 2200 instead of 2x 2200) the plane flies far better, for little flight duration differences.

I am still working out some ugly roll (snap rolls instead of axial rolls) characteristics, on the grim though.
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 11:27 AM
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Greg- how far back is your CG now?
Are you able to get a better roll if you add down (stick forward) input into your roll?
If you give full up elevator at full throttle level flight, does it snap then?, or just loop.
Which radio are you using?

I know- lots of questions. The Reaper is a fun plane and can be setup to roll very well. I'm sure you'll get it worked out...
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 03:27 PM
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Lee's Summit, MO USA
Joined Jan 2001
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Originally Posted by edwin3162 View Post
Hi there,

... the laminate thingy, its hard to find in Singapore ...
Regards,
Edwin.K
Edwin - Good to hear from you. Do you ever fly at the RMS (Radio Modellers Singapore) Tuas field?

Sorry if this is off-topic but I was in Singapore last fall for work and had a Saturday off. I took a cab to the field and they happened to be having a Fun Fly. It was a blast and I ended up staying all day. They welcomed me in, made a great feast and my new friends even drove me home. They also had night flying which I hadn't seen before and gave me the light bug. Great bunch of guys enjoying the same things we do here (with a little less land)!

I didn't see any wings at RMS. Where do you normally fly in case I go back?
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 03:31 PM
Lee
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Originally Posted by GregSilver View Post
I agree with Lee as well...I would put laminate on as it not only adds to the strength of the plane, but its needed to keep the outside tips of the wing from twisting.

I am still working out some ugly roll (snap rolls instead of axial rolls) characteristics, on the grim though.
Turn your throws down and look to see the elevons are moving the same amount.
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