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Old Jun 21, 2011, 11:39 AM
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United States, NJ, Manchester
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Originally Posted by G-unit View Post
Hey,
What is the advantage to the rewound motor??
sorry if it is a dumb question ..
I'm pretty sure it's just a normal motor just rewound.
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Old Jun 21, 2011, 12:03 PM
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United States, UT, Layton
Joined Sep 2009
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Originally Posted by G-unit View Post
Hey,
What is the advantage to the rewound motor??
sorry if it is a dumb question ..
Nearly all stock motors are wound with 3 strand wire which works fine, but is less efficient and less powerful than a larger single strand wire. I rewound my motor after the original wire shorted. I wound it with one less turn, which gives it a higher KV. Now I get more top speed, roughly the same thrust, and longer fly time.
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Old Jun 21, 2011, 12:19 PM
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S.E.Michigan
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spaten.....i believe mine is right at my c.f. spar. which i believe is 6 5/8" back i think...i cant measure right now.

if it is too far back....which i think its fine....just tape a couple quarrters on the nose and try again.

worse case is an easy fix. cut with a razor 1/4" strip from front of current battery pocket save the foam strip and glue it in behind the batt that you just scooted up 1/4". easy really. but probly wont be necessary
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Old Jun 21, 2011, 12:24 PM
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United States, WI, Wausau
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Thanks for the tips.
Was worried about the iron tip so glad I didn't just jump right into it, will have to pick up some extras.

Last question (for now), what's the best way to attach the motor mount to the board? Just two screws in the outside holes? Worried about that releasing mid-flight I suppose (with no nut to hold in place). Were those screws included?
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Old Jun 21, 2011, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by seanpr123 View Post
Thanks for the tips.
Was worried about the iron tip so glad I didn't just jump right into it, will have to pick up some extras.

Last question (for now), what's the best way to attach the motor mount to the board? Just two screws in the outside holes? Worried about that releasing mid-flight I suppose (with no nut to hold in place). Were those screws included?
Curious of this as well Good question
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Old Jun 21, 2011, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by spaten View Post
I built an assassin flying wing but somehow got it tail heavy and too heavy overall. Not sure where i went wrong, but I am looking for some suggestions on a fix. CoG is about 6.75 back and the overall weight is ~18.3 ounces. I havent tried to fly it yet in fear that it will fly poorly due to weight and CG. One thing that i didnt notice until the wing was built is that it isn't 34" as described in the RCGroups post, it is 38 inches tip to tip. Any help is appreciated.



What'd you use to paint it? That could've added the extra weight. A lot of it looks like its behind the cg... that's not too heavy though. most are around 16 or so ounces.

I fly mine tail heavy a lot as I have a couple different sizes of batteries. It just makes it more responsive. Every once in awhile you'll get a little yaw instability and it snaps easier. Good or bad thing I guess... Just go for it fly that thing! You can tune it as you go. It wouldn't take much to move the cg up a little bit if you want.

Did you see the video where Lee lifted a full V8 can and dropped it? That should tell you how much it'll lift :P 2 oucnes won't make a huge difference
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Old Jun 21, 2011, 02:02 PM
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It was colored duct tape from the craft store, a single layer of it for each stripe.
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Last edited by spaten; Jun 21, 2011 at 02:07 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old Jun 21, 2011, 02:15 PM
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Cg

Quote:
Originally Posted by rdbell View Post
What'd you use to paint it? That could've added the extra weight. A lot of it looks like its behind the cg... that's not too heavy though. most are around 16 or so ounces.

I fly mine tail heavy a lot as I have a couple different sizes of batteries. It just makes it more responsive. Every once in awhile you'll get a little yaw instability and it snaps easier. Good or bad thing I guess... Just go for it fly that thing! You can tune it as you go. It wouldn't take much to move the cg up a little bit if you want.

Did you see the video where Lee lifted a full V8 can and dropped it? That should tell you how much it'll lift :P 2 oucnes won't make a huge difference
You know by looking at the picture (very nice look and build) the battery compartment may have been cut on the back-side of the line. It looks like it should have been cut on the front of the line, there's certaintly enough room forward. If that is the case then cut toward the front and slide the cut out piece on the back side. That will help getting the battery and the CG forward.
But for sure to start try to get the CG in the right place regardless of the overall weight. But you can now see how anything behind the spar has to compensated for up-front Don't fret about the weight, balance it.
Looks good.
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Old Jun 21, 2011, 03:30 PM
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Richmond, TX
Joined Apr 2008
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Originally Posted by seanpr123 View Post
Thanks for the tips.
Was worried about the iron tip so glad I didn't just jump right into it, will have to pick up some extras.

Last question (for now), what's the best way to attach the motor mount to the board? Just two screws in the outside holes? Worried about that releasing mid-flight I suppose (with no nut to hold in place). Were those screws included?

I place another smaller piece of the formica on the top of the wing and run a bolt thru it and cap it with a hex nut. I've used standard metal bolts and also aluminum to save a little weight. I believe this is now how they are doing it on the Titan and Reaper.
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Old Jun 21, 2011, 03:53 PM
Lee
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USA, UT, Orem
Joined Jul 2004
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Flying wings balance at about 23% of the total wing/elevon area, so 77% of all the construction is behind the CG so it is easy to be tail heavy on most flying wings. Flying wings also have the motor behind the CG so it becomes an even bigger challenge to keep the back of the plane light and all the weight at the nose of the plane.

Watch out for heavy colored tapes on the back edges of the plane. I made a couple of my original prototypes very tail heavy by using too much holographic tape on the elevons. I have experimented with a double layer of the 3 mil laminate on the elevons and no extreme tape to save weight on the back of the plane although I still use an extreme tape hinge. Look closely where I used the extreme tape on the Widowmakers below.

Notice how little holographic tape I used on the Widowmakers to keep them light. My LED lights are all at the front of the plane to help with CG.

The duct tape does weigh more than the lightweight packing tape.

the good news is that this design can carry the weight and fly well. Balance the plane with some lead at the nose and fly it.
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Last edited by Lee; Jun 21, 2011 at 04:06 PM.
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Old Jun 21, 2011, 03:56 PM
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Would i destroy the elevons by trying to get the laminate off and remove the colored tape? I still have some leftover laminate from the kit i could use to re-apply afterwards.
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Old Jun 21, 2011, 04:03 PM
Lee
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Originally Posted by spaten View Post
Would i destroy the elevons by trying to get the laminate off and remove the colored tape? I still have some leftover laminate from the kit i could use to re-apply afterwards.
Don't do it. Just balance the plane and fly it.
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Old Jun 21, 2011, 04:05 PM
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i dont know about destroying them....but its still too much work when you should be flying1 ;-) !!

just toss it up and hit the throttle.... Oh did i mention make sure the raised letters on the prop are facing forward?)

P
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Old Jun 21, 2011, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Lee View Post
Don't do it. Just balance the plane and fly it.
Thank you to everyone for the help. I'll add some sinkers from my tacklebox until it balances (the fishing sucks down here right now anwyays )
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Old Jun 22, 2011, 09:06 AM
Lee
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CF2812 motors are in stock at HK

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=5423


Here is a new link for Extreme Tape in the USA. Great deal while it lasts!!!!

8 rolls $34 shipped http://cgi.ebay.com/2-X-60-Strapping...item2564a41fec

2 rolls $14.75 shipped http://cgi.ebay.com/2-X-60-Strapping...item2564cf90da

Lee



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Last edited by Lee; Jun 22, 2011 at 09:14 AM.
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