Discussion Combat Plans for the Scratch Builder

[Lee]

This are some of our club's favorite planes. The club also like Extremewings.com and Unicorns, in fact one of the Unicorn homepage site videos of combat was made by our club.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=840149

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1052384

Watch the videos we have 40 planes in the air.

We have done combat twice a week for years. We have our own style that draws a crowd and keeps them coming.

[dlw151947]

Originally Posted by dlw151947

Here's some photos of our Delta we fly full contact with.
DLW

RC/flydad request on the Delta

Motor-2408-21
gws 9-7 orange prop
20 amp.speed control
9 gram sevos
2-cell-1300 battery
spektrum reciever

We fly 5 minute rounds
hot melt low temp.glue everything
the prop slot will have to be made wider for the 9-7 prop and just move the fins out a little

[rcflydad]

arsenic0,
Is the Mugi a good combat plane? I have read the Mugi web site and wondered about it in the past. If you don't mind, I have a few questions for you. Where do you buy 2 mm Chloroplast? What size sheets and colors can you get? What electronics, battery, prop, flight time, etc do you get with your Mugi, and where do you buy them at a good price?

[arsenic0]

I can see the mugi being a good combat plane because its so indestructible.

Heres my plane, you cant see it but its actually been crashed atleast 10 times not counting bad launches other than the tip of the nose crumpling ever so slightly and some dirt wedged in the nose section you couldn't tell
I just need to find a better way to keep my battery from smooshing against the front in hard hits and the only things that can break then are the cheap servos...



Not to hijack the thread from its original purpose but ill answer rcflydad..
As earlier i think it would be an awesome combat plane...you can build them out of FFF if you cant get coroplast, my first 2 were out of it and they worked great. I just moved to Coro because I lost both my foam ones in rather epic crashes into a fence and another into a big field light. Both of which resulted in either a lost battery or motor because the airframe itself didnt take much of the force, it just ripped in half spilling all of its guts out from 30+ feet up...

I get my Coroplast locally, they only have white in 2mm but i dont really care because i can tape it up as i did my plane with cooler designs anyways.
Too find 2mm your best bet is to go to google maps and type in 'Sign Shop City, State' like i would do 'Sign Shop Hillsboro, OR'..then start at the top and email or call them all and ask if they use 2mm. I did this to the top 5 and within a few hours a few had said no but 2 or 3 all gave me the name of the local plastic distributor where they get their signboard...called them up and got some.

For me the company is MultiCraft Plastics in Tigard..it was damn cheap ..like 16 bucks for a 8x10' sheet, and they actually screwed up and gave me two sheets!
One 8x10 sheet can probably make around 6-8 Standard Mugi Airframes.

I use HXT900 Servos , a Turnigy 2200kV motor, 1800mAH 3S1p Battery, and a 30A ESC, all from Hobby City, total cost probably 50 bucks. I prefer a 6x4 prop, although i have a 7x5 on right now and it works fine. I havent ever timed my flights really, but if i went full throttle the entire time i'd guess 7-10 minutes? But i rarely do that so its usually 12-15ish i'd guess. I started out building the planes with the TowerPro 2408-21T's off Hobbycity, i think they are like 1600-1800kV with 6x4 props and work very well.

The sad(or cool) part is that my AR6200 Spektrum receiver i have in it costs more than everything else in the plane combined(carbon rods, glue, frame, parts)

Also within 5 minutes of this picture being taken i challenged my buddy behind my plane to see who could fly the lowest. I won, he rolled his stryker into the ground and shattered it from like 5 feet...nothin a bit of gorilla glue cant fix tho! He didnt know it but i can actually cut all power and bounce this plane off the ground on its belly and then gun it and take off again..lol..he didnt have a chance.

[rcflydad]

Hi arsenic0,
I am gathering parts for my first Mugi. I have a few more questions if you don't mind.

What kind of contact cement did you use? I wonder if I could use my really sticky 3M seam seal tape (from Intotothewind.com) on the inside and packaging tape or staple the panels together as needed on the outside to eliminate the need for glue.

I still need to decide on a power system and a mount for the motor.

I have some carbon tubing that is about .290 dia which is slighter bigger than the .240 carbon tube that is recommended.
I found Dubro 1/2A control horns and clevises for the elevons, and 2 mm (.087 in) carbon rod for the control rods. I also found Dubro EZ connectors in a larger size that fit the 2 mm rod.

I have some 2 mm orange sheets, but when they are gone I will need to find a new source for Coroplast in the Seattle area. The manufacturer of Coroplast http://www.coroplast.com/product.htm, phone 800 666 2241 is sending me some 8x10 inch samples.

Found this article on how to decorate a Mugi with colored packaging tape
http://www.instructables.com/id/Styl...last-RC-Plane/

[Sailor Jerry]

Originally Posted by dlw151947

Here's some photos of our Delta we fly full contact with.
DLW

Nice plane! What's the all up weight? Also, do you ever use these for streamer combat? I'm not sure I can convince my flying buddies to fly full contact.

One more question; when you're using streamers how and where do you attach them? (In case you can't tell, I'm new to combat).

[dlw151947]

We don't do to much full contact combat anymore since we have been flying the F&F planes. We cut all of our events down to just one event now. It's easier to maintain 1 class of planes rather than several. Even with the F&f planes we still have several midairs.
Buzzy

[CCD]

Originally Posted by dlw151947

Here's some photos of our Delta we fly full contact with.
DLW

Somewhere on these forums I found a link to another website forum that had a PDF with this plane.
However that forum required a signup in order to download the file, and I hate signing up to another forum (always worried about getting spammed).
Any chance that you have that file?

Also one other comment was about using coroplast instead of foam. Here in this part or Canada we don't have a ready supply of the foam your using in the US. So we have been using Coroplast to build some combat machines.

I am looking for something that would be usable indoors in a basketball sized area. Last year we were flying Nutballs that were around 24 inches in diameter with 3 cell packs.
The problem was that with such a large plane was that it was all harrier flying. I'd like something small that could actually be flown in indoors like an actual outdoor combat with turns in all directions and vertical as well as horizontal turns.

[davereap]

here is my latest.. suitable for combat, fast, manuverable etc quick build sub 1 hr..and so simple. They also are very tough, flying the 32" on a fast pass I hit a square metal goal post, which stopped it dead, the damage was just some LE creasing, not enough to stop flying.
32" span 6mm foam..flys well with a cheapo 2208-21 or power up for maniacs
.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1077013

go to 24" for a BW motor setup with 3mm foam

32" video
.

A simple build KFm4-AR2-plank...The "Nifty" (5 min 20 sec)

.
24" video

24 inch Nifty the KFm4 plank - 1 (3 min 30 sec)

[rcflydad]

I saw a mention of an F&F plane. What is that and is there a link?

[speed2004]

See post by Dr. Sandy Frank about F&F combat

[dlw151947]

Originally Posted by rcflydad

I saw a mention of an F&F plane. What is that and is there a link?

Originally Posted by nickeast
Your combat model is the "Blue Funder" It has been around for sometime. The first link below shows the very start and the second link, post #137 has a much more detailed drawing of the plane. You can find out more than you will ever need to know about this great model in these links. There is 41 pages of stuff about mods and various power setups.


http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=363570

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...=363570&page=10 check post #137


Our group and a couple other groups have been cloning this plane for the last couple of years. By making mods here and there to suit the combat flying we do. It has been working out for us real well in our combat shorties with the equipment we have left over from the WWII planes..And so much more durable and faster build than the WWII planes we have built in the past.
Buzzy

[Lommax]

Originally Posted by dlw151947

Originally Posted by nickeast
Your combat model is the "Blue Funder" It has been around for sometime. The first link below shows the very start and the second link, post #137 has a much more detailed drawing of the plane. You can find out more than you will ever need to know about this great model in these links. There is 41 pages of stuff about mods and various power setups.


http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=363570

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...=363570&page=10 check post #137


Our group and a couple other groups have been cloning this plane for the last couple of years. By making mods here and there to suit the combat flying we do. It has been working out for us real well in our combat shorties with the equipment we have left over from the WWII planes..And so much more durable and faster build than the WWII planes we have built in the past.
Buzzy

However, the F&F variant looks cooler than the stock "Blue Funder".

[yzguy]

I was going to try to make a Mugi, but I could not find 2mm coroplast, so I ended up getting a For Rent sign, and some 3/16” wood rods from home depot, then cut out roughly from these measurements (earlier post):
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...3#post12275893


I moved the motor forward just a little, and am using a much smaller prop. I am also obviously using 4mm coroplast, and he used blucore. It will likely fly better when made out of foam, but will likely not be as durable. I may try it both ways.

I am using 1800 to 2200 mah batteries with it, the 2200’s do a little better.

2 of these 9 gr servos:
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...?idproduct=662

72 mhz receiver
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=5781

I have one of these motors, I’m not sure which one….
http://www.rctimer.com/index.php?app=goods&spec_id=223
http://www.rctimer.com/index.php?app=goods&spec_id=162

The motor gets a little warm when I push it fast (6X4 prop), but I don’t think it is to much.