|Aug 30, 2011, 08:44 PM|
Joined Oct 2009
Now it's a matter of actually finding an Esky ek2-0704....everyone's out of stock, or they only have the ek2-0704B versions......
|Aug 30, 2011, 11:06 PM|
Joined Oct 2009
|Aug 31, 2011, 06:04 AM|
I believe the servo testers power supply would need to have a common ground with your receiver for this to work.
|Aug 31, 2011, 06:29 AM|
I have a TG-380 but the 2nd one I got was intermittant. I have yet to see if it was a loose wire or what.
Servo tester is a good idea.
rctimer.com is where I've gotten mine cheap. You will need some extra wiring to power it.
|Aug 31, 2011, 07:06 PM|
Parkzone UM T-28 with Rate Gyro
Nearly the same install as the P-51D. The platform did not need to be raised from the foam - it was ca'd directly behind the rx. This one went together quick based from the P51 experience....
I placed the board directly at the CG of the plane. See black dot on wing. The only issue is the access to the trim pots - this one does not have a hatch since the board sits directly underneath the canopy.
Notes after Maiden: Flew it in 5-12 mph winds, and it was horrible. With a cowl that acts like a parachute and a dihedral that's more extreme than the p-51, it was a handful in the wind. In a crosswind the T-28 rolled easily from the wider, longer, and angled wings. The gyro could not keep up due to the slow ailerons that is characteristic of this model. A strong gust head-on would literally stop this ultra micro and cause it to balloon upwards - powering into the wind made this worse. I added a throttle -> down elev mix that helped somewhat, but when the wind died down I got the opposite of ballooning. The airframe is just not as good in the wind as the torpedo shaped p51. :-(
Oh well, I'll keep the gyro in it just in case it gets caught in the turbulence of a butterfly.
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|Aug 31, 2011, 08:14 PM|
Joined Apr 2010
Melnic, I have a question for ya.
I set up the gyros OK, and linked them each to a knob (ch6/8) for adjustment. Works well. I have this Futaba FF8 radio:
However, I have set an additional PMIX to allow shutting them off with 1 switch. I used this method, basically it mixes the knob to "0" when you hit a switch:
It works, BUT it seems to activate HH Mode slightly when in the supposed "OFF" position. This is bad, as the surfaces quickly drift and lock, until switched back into Rate Mode.
Is this a case of a 'false zero'? My radio allows 3 values to change: the mix % (set at -100%/-100%); link (ON); Offset (0). These are the recommended values as per the instructions in the second link above. Yet the HH problem.
Can I cure this by altering one of the values?
|Aug 31, 2011, 08:51 PM|
Joined Oct 2009
|Aug 31, 2011, 09:46 PM|
nice guy, Not sure I fully understand what you did but you need a way to set an offset or subtrim to that "0", OFF is a low rate gain. I don't think I EVER and up in the middle, I'm always offset a little to one end. In my vidoes I show how I adjust subtrim to get a low rate gain "off" condition.
|Sep 01, 2011, 06:35 AM|
cute video, glad it's being brought to the forefront more.
It would have been good if they had emphesized MORE that a gyro on the ailerons would help stabilize in the wind. SOOO many times, I go to my field and people are not flying because of the wind. Either because of a crosswind (rudder) or just windy and they fear the wings flipping on them during landing (aileron).
I dissagree that the HK401 is as good as a $99 gyro. (unless of course they mean an over priced eflite piezo gyro that your local hobby shop is selling for $99.
|Sep 01, 2011, 11:30 PM|
Yes, there seems to be a great deal of misconceptions in regards to using a gyro. I don't know why. I think it's a great tool to have on board a plane. You can use it when you need it, and if you don't want too just switch it to a low setting or turn it off entirely (best done with a bypass switch - like the gws unit. Some gyros do not like a value of 0 for a gain. Take Note!). What it does do is increase your flying opportunities, and even affords you with a bit of machine protection(assisting in landing & takeoff, windy days, ..etc...). Anyhow, I find it a neat piece of technology. Myself, I'd rather be flying then fixing.
The one that gets me the most is, "the gyro does the flying for you". Well guess what happens when I let go of the sticks? That video presents a few of these misconceptions, and I think if they had referred to your writeup and this thread, the video would've been more informative.
|Sep 01, 2011, 11:37 PM|
E-Flite UMX Beast with an Aileron Gyro
Installing a head holding gyro in an E-flite Ultra Micro Beast
Note: With the announcement of the E-Flite AS3X rx's please keep in mind the following:
1. This IS NOT REPRESENTATIVE of that system.
2. This represents 2 seperate Heli gyros being applied to two control surfaces of an airplane.
- They work independently of each other, and so there is no mixing or master program that ties the two in influencing the flying of this plane.
4. This is a very crude form of stabilization. However, it excels in wind dampening, and in preventing ground loops (for those using gyros on rudders).
5. All parameters where adjusted to my flying style.
6. Like everything I do, it's always work in progress...Lol...
I modelled this a while ago in Real Flight G5.5. You can find it in the Knifedge forums. The real thing should be very close to the simulation model. For now the actual will only have one gyro whereas the sim has it on all three axis.
http://knifeedge.com/forums/download...=file&id=15712 (read the description, and just turn off the elevator and rudder gyros to get a feel of how the model below will fly).
For the Aileron's I'll be using a Turnigy Mini mems, and for the Elevator and Rudder it will be the GA250's (when they come back from Meng ---- October/November?). Hopefully the 6400LBL BEC can take the load of three gyro's. The Turnigy looks similar when compared to the Spartan Quark. The Turnigy, and GA250's will provide mem's, remote gain, HH and more importantly analog servo setting.
Pic's of the Spartan Quark from Ampdraw: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...2#post15052566
How is the UMX Beast in the wind?: Compared to the T-28 (similar fuselage shape) it is similarly slow, but with the pulling torque of a BL setup. Compared to the P-51 it too pierces the wind but at the same time it is much more manueverable. It's so far the best looking micro there is, and it's getting cheaper! Overall, it is by far the best wind flyer o ut of the three due to the bl motor and flat airfoils.
The problem with the stock UMX Beast (as is) in high winds is its sensitivity of the controls (needed for Aerobatics), and those first few feet from the takeoff/landing strip. You'll tend over control it, and once the wings reach a certain angle against the wind....it's over. That's where the HH feature of this particular gyro comes into play. You use it to guide you during takeoff, and into gaining a high enough altitude to play around in. Once your comfortable, you switch to your chosen value of rate mode, and fly like you normally fly. The flat wings literally slice into any oncoming gust. Strong winds however will demand lower gain values since It will flutter at times due to high mechanical gain of the four ailerons working in unison and the slow linear servos-this is the beauty of having a remote gain. Using a 3-pos switch an a tx will allow you to set 3 different gain values.
This particular gyro includes a Head Holding feature that can be adjusted with parameters via a hand held programmer. It is pricier than most rate only gyros.
Please read Melnic's guide on using gyro's in airplanes that is found in the first posting of this thread. It explains head holding.
Note #1: This is a guide for installing a single gyro for an external servo on the 6400LBL. I do not "think" it is possible to install an additional gyro to one of the integrated servos because the signal is processed on a chip and sent directly to the servo's power connection. There is no additional signal wire present. For more than one gyro we will need the newer 6400NBL board and three external servos.This will be the topic of a future build. (Post Note: I've been able to incorporate a 2nd gyro for the elevators. I removed a servo from the board, and used a mix to get one of the aux channels to control gyro)
Note #2: The Beast comes with two aileron servos that are plugged into two seperate ports on the rx from the factory. With this gyro setup they must be connected together into a "Y" and then plugged into the gyro and from the gyro to the aileron port/channel 2. One servo may have to be reversed with a special adapter from Spektrum (some of their linear servos come pre-packaged with this servo reverser adapter - the Beast does not come with it).
Note #3: Expos on your TX will no longer work as expected in HH mode. The gyro itself however has it onboard, and you can adjust it.
Note #4Controlling your ailerons in Head Holding mode is different from normal/rate mode flying. Basically the stick becomes somewhat like an off and on switch to roll. You stop the roll by centering your stick, and the gyro will also remember the planes orientation at that moment. It will then keep that orientation without you having to correct for it (try not to touch the stick in otherwords, unless you want the plane to roll and to remember a new orientation). It takes a bit getting use to. Remember that this particular gyro was designed to control the tail of an RC helicopter. This is why some people don't like using HH mode since it feels disconnected on a planes control surfaces; however, this is a programmable gyro. This translates to adjustments we can make that can somewhat make HH feel less disconnected.
Note #5: This is a programmable gyro and it comes with a hand held unit for programming. That's great since you can tailor the performance of the gyro, and as such the response of your plane. However, it can become a pain especially when it comes to tiny connectors, and a fragile foam fuselage. You can bet on tweaking the parameters more than once till your happy, and their is no guarantee that you'll get that same feel and performance before you added the gyro.
Note #6 Watch your battery limit carefully during the first few flights in high winds. The plane will consume more since you'll be powering it more often into the wind to keep it from being blown away.
Note #7. I've now flown the Beast in winds that range from 0-25+ mph. 15 mph gusts seems to be the comfort limit. Anything higher and it just harriers barely in one spot - you can still fly around, but you get pushed back downwind in a hurry with minimal chance of getting back. Plus it's nearly wot all the time. Neat for the first 10 seconds, and then it gets kinda boring.
1. Tools Needed:
- Soldering iron with fine tip, 60/40 solder, and flux
- Small gauge wire stripper
- Small wire nippers
- Xacto knife with new blades. There are various blade shapes and I used
the common fine point #11, and the narrow lightweight chisel type, #17.
It's important that you use new blades.
- Slow cure CA
- 5 min Epoxy (Optional)
- Dremel with thin cutting wheel, drum sanding wheel
- Straight edge
2. Materials Needed:
- Turnigy Mini Mems (Roll axis)
- Blue Arrow Nano Gyro (Pitch Axis)
- Liquid Tape or small diameter heat shrink tubing
- Nano JST
- Micro JST
3. Gyro and programmer wiring, and connectors
4. Fuselage prep, and modification
6. Gyro installation
7. TX settings
8. Gyro Programming
9. Test flight
UMX Beast, Digital Camera & GoPro Mount (4 min 8 sec)
UMX Beast, HD Camera & GoPro Mount (3 min 44 sec)
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