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Old Oct 03, 2012, 09:19 PM
Brett
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Looks good!
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 11:18 PM
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United States, CA, Ventura County
Joined Sep 2008
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I fixed the metallic silver issue by sanding it down and hitting it with a single shot of silver metallic. You have to apply just enough to coat the surface, but no more. Looks perfect now. Live and learn.
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 01:41 AM
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Aileron sensitivity

I have been scratching my head for some time now trying to figure out why it has been a challenge to dial in the feel of the ailerons on the Daisy Cutter. I think I have finally identified what is going on. Anyone who has flown the DC60 has noticed the peculiar aileron feel.

What I believe is happening is the result of bottom hinging the ailerons. Because the wing is so thick near the hinge line, about 10% of the aileron width disappears in the wing when the aileron travels up. If you realize that that we typically want more up than down aileron (to counteract adverse yaw), the bottom hinging works exactly counter to this end.

Top hinging would create a more favorable condition. I noticed that I had to use a substantial amount of differential, on the order of 50% compared to perhaps 25% for other planes. Had I gone with top-hinged ailerons, I believe the plane would have a much better stick feel and as a result much higher posted speeds to date.

Top hinging may also reduce drag since in theory the plane would be using less upward deflection to get the same response it has now. Any adverse yaw at speed would be nearly, if not totally, eliminated.

I do not want to cut free the ailerons and rehinge. But if I ever make another wing, I will certainly use top-hinged ailerons.
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Last edited by Aerogance; Oct 06, 2012 at 01:51 AM.
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 01:02 PM
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United States, CA, Ventura County
Joined Sep 2008
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Trouble in paradise

I finished painting the wing. All that is left is to shoot a clear coat on the bottom and block/polish to perfection. At least, this was the plan.

Instead, I had a major problem with some masking tape I used. I bought a roll of "60 Day" 3M tape and it worked great during the painting project. It never left a residue and it never attacked the finish.

The trouble I had was that I mistakenly grabbed an identical looking roll of old 7 day 3m tape and used it to mask off the completed top of the wing. The adhesive destroyed both the clear coat and the color coat below. It is my fault for grabbing the wrong roll, but it still shouldn't be so aggressive. To compound the issue, the weather turned cool so the cure times I had tested in the 110 degree / 20% humidity were longer, but spot testing with the 60 day tape produced no issues.

The "fix" for this requires sanding off the damaged clear coat and sanding out the damaged color coat. Assuming I do not sand through the color coat, I will then reshoot the clear and go to the block/polish phase to complete. This is dissappointing because it is the critical top surface of the wing affected so the repair has to be perfect.

At least I can see how the plane will look. I took some photos but the sun was at a low angle so the colors are washed out in the photos:
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 10:23 PM
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gold coast australia
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Very nice Aaron.
I love orange and alway love the look of purple and green. Great job.
You will easy see that at 300+..

Tim
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 10:56 PM
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United States, CA, Ventura County
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Tim,
I did some color samples with Purple and all the different flouro colors (pink, yellow, red, orange and green). Green and Orange had the best look with purple. Since I used orange on the top, green was the natural choice for the bottom. I think my next plane will get purple and orange on bottom, I really like that combo. I like purple better than black, since it is dark but has some flavor to it.
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 11:16 PM
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Australia, QLD, Toowoomba
Joined Jan 2010
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I feel for you Aaron, I HATE painting planes! They are so fiddly and I dont think I ever had one come out like I wanted. I dont stress too much about how they look anymore cause they always pick up scratches anyway - as long as they stand out Im happy!
Good luck with it.
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 06:57 AM
ERS....Energy Retention System
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gold coast australia
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I just painted flouro pink with dark purple ..looks great.
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 03:32 PM
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Thousand Oaks, CA
Joined Mar 2004
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Interesting aileron anecdote. Aileron differential works by way of drag -- the idea being to deflect the upward aileron so far that it becomes a drag brake. With a top hinged aileron not only does the wing chord/area increase with upward deflection, but the draggy gap opens up, so you get extra drag a couple different ways. That said, you still should be able to get as much differential as you need regardless of the hinge location. And all modern moldies are bottom hinged now and work just great, though they always have wipers.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 07:57 PM
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Nano update: top of wing is repaired. The finish ate crap really bad, but it is okay now. Just not perfect like it was turning out. Bottom needs some work still.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 11:47 PM
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I figured out what happened with the paint. The Montana Gold paint lays on really thick, and different spray tips can put down an even thicker coat. I painted the fuselage and stabilizer with a vertical fan tip and had no issues. For the wing, I switched to a tip that shoots a 9" circle pattern and this is where the trouble began. The 9" circle tip puts down a huge amount of material in a single pass. Because I didn't have any white primer for a basecoat, I used white Montana Gold with the 9" tip and put down an impressive layer of paint. The weather, which was low humidty and 110 degree heat during the fuselage/stab painting, cooled and got more humid. This caused the paint drying time to jump from 8 hours to 4 days full cure. I didn't wait long enough for the white basecoat to dry before starting on the color coats. The super heavy coats of paint pushed the final cure out to at least 6 days in the cooler weather. Because of the chemistry of these paints, they form a "skin" rather quickly that traps gasses in the paint when you lay it way too thick like I did. To make matters worse, I coated the top of the wing with fast-drying automotive clear acrylic and "sealed in the juices". When I taped off the top of the wing to start on the bottom, the crepe pattern of the tape "dug in" to the paint all the way down to the primer. The tape's adhesive also reacted with the outgassing paint and formed billions of pin holes. The prevention to this is to use much less paint and let it cure all the way before topcoating. I found that by sanding off the "skin" of the partially cured paint, it will cure all the way fairly quickly. The paint is amazing to work with, but it sprays so well that you need to pay careful attention to how much you actually put down. So for anyone who tries this paint on their plane, spray just enough to get the color you need and then after about 8 hours wetsand the paint to break the skin and let it cure all the way before proceeding.
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 09:23 PM
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Joined Sep 2008
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Update: It has been just over 4 months and the Montana Gold paint has finally cured all the way. It still has a flexibility to it that I am sure will haunt me on the first landing. She looks good, ready for huge wind and speed!
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 09:28 PM
ERS....Energy Retention System
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gold coast australia
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So when is your order for huge wind going to turn up.?? You must have gone with cheap shipping that's why your still waiting...

Tim
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