Alright, got 3 of the 4 clevis's in... The last aileron "horn" looks like it has been glued/affixed too close to the moulded "bump". I'll explain this differently, the top of the horn on the three other control surfaces, have about a 3mm clearence from the top of the "moulded bump", the trouble one is resting on the top of the bump... This is fouling the movement of the clevis opening as it rubs against the bump.

I have tried a metal clevis and a black plastic "mp jet" style of clevis with the removal brass rod. Both foul the movement.

Thoughts? would a smaller clevis be too much of a risk? Alternatively i could somehow remove the horn and epoxy a cf horn in there...

Hi Rob,

I had a similar problem - can't help thinking that the clevis is inappropriate for this installation - not enough room, either at the control horn, the pass-through the rear 'spar' or the servo horn. The ones I've seen using 'Z' bends look much better.

Not being a fan of 'Z' bends I persevered with the clevises and like you, found they fouled the fairings. The control horns had been fitted too close to the top surface, so rather than dig them out and refit them I 'relieved' the fairings.

Not pretty, but who will see AND I might get some interesting whistling on a fast pass

I had no problem with clearance w the clevis, and I installed it just like you did--servo wrapped in blue tape and potted w epoxy/microballoons. But I mounted the servos all the way forward against the spar for stability. I used threaded stock for the control rods, with a slight bend, just like you did. I tried Z-bends, but there was too much free-play. All works fine, 90 degrees down flap travel for crow no problem. You're on the right track.

you have to grind the clevis down a bit sometimes.

Here's a couple pictures of the flap servo install. It will give me a full 90 degrees down flap for crow, and plenty of up-throw to mix with the aileron.

I don't know why I didn't use the nifty plywood servo trays that were provided with the kit. They fit in there great, and are laser-cut to perfection for the HS-5125MG servos. I was just trial-fitting the servos and pushrods, and all of a sudden, I had them in the right spot and they were potted in, just like always. Weird.....

Originally Posted by satinet

you have to grind the clevis down a bit sometimes.

Cool, i'll try grinding down the clevis, if that doesnt work i'll look at grinding out the horn and replacing with a CF horn and epoxy/microballoons. Don't want to hack into the fairing at this point.

Thanks guys,
Rob

I've got a belly full of it! For the Plane that is

Wanted to be prepared for all conditions. Ordered it on monday, it arrived today. Seems I'll have to make some wood slugs to get the c.g. right, and for days that doesn't require a full load. This should guarantee light winds on her maiden

Here is my install so far...... I hate glueing servos into wings! So..... I used a table saw and custom cut some wood sticks to "Pot" and screw the servos down. I used the plastic supplied clips on the DS09AMD's . Everything is VERY secure and easily removable if need be. Used Sullivan clevis's and 2/56 threaded rod for the wing pushrods. Sullivan clevis's and 2/56 rods for the tail group. Did some grinding for clearance on the tail clevis's. Removed 1 ear on the 5125 flap servos and tucked them up against the spar. Need to do my harness next....... when done, will silicone the RX into place.I dont want to tape over the indicator lights. I think I wont tape the anteane down and let them float in the nose when slid on. I managed to fit in a ( Black Jack)switch charge jack also. Luv those things! Here is a hint too..... for the wing pushrods..... once set to final length....a drop or 2 of thin ca on the treads will take care of that annoying slop and then U wont need to use those little nuts to fix that. I did use the nuts on the tail pushrods though, No clearance problems there. So far things are looking good . "FLY ON " Davo

Originally Posted by davonat

Here is my install so far...... I hate glueing servos into wings! So..... I used a table saw and custom cut some wood sticks to "Pot" and screw the servos down. I used the plastic supplied clips on the DS09AMD's . Everything is VERY secure and easily removable if need be. Used Sullivan clevis's and 2/56 threaded rod for the wing pushrods. Sullivan clevis's and 2/56 rods for the tail group. Did some grinding for clearance on the tail clevis's. Removed 1 ear on the 5125 flap servos and tucked them up against the spar. Need to do my harness next....... when done, will silicone the RX into place. I think I wont tape the anteane down and let them float in the nose when slid on. I managed to fit in a switch charge jack also. Luv those things! Here is a hint too..... for the wing pushrods..... once set to final length....a drop or 2 of thin ca on the treads will take care of that annoying slop and then U wont need to use those little nuts to fix that. I did use the nuts on the tail pushrods though, No clearance problems there. So far things are looking good . "FLY ON " Davo

I was thinking the same for the servo fixing in the wings, might get some hardwood in there and screw them in. The supplied ply brackets are good for the hs125s, but the ds095s have their mounting slugs in the middle of the servo width (ie: not at point 0.0mm, not at point 9.5mm, at point 4.5mm). So the plywood needs to be filed down at the mounting point.

I like the ar6250 installation, might do the same and forget about the ar7000.

Are you comfortable running 6 digitals on a 4-cell pack?

Thanks for all the pics guys,
Rob

Originally Posted by millikenrob

I was thinking the same for the servo fixing in the wings, might get some hardwood in there and screw them in. The supplied ply brackets are good for the hs125s, but the ds095s have their mounting slugs in the middle of the servo width (ie: not at point 0.0mm, not at point 9.5mm, at point 4.5mm). So the plywood needs to be filed down at the mounting point.

I like the ar6250 installation, might do the same and forget about the ar7000.

Are you comfortable running 6 digitals on a 4-cell pack?

Thanks for all the pics guys,
Rob

Howdy Rob..... I tucked the 5125's up against the spar.... making the ply trays worthless.... and allowing the use of clevis's at both ends of of the short threaded pushrods. I was looking to use a 6200 RX... But there is no place for the remote sattelite RX..., When I saw the NEW 6250 I was over joyed " Full Range " no extra rx. I used poplar wood for the servo sticks... its not too hard nor too soft, and a drop of ca in the screw holes. I think the 095's are pretty much the same size as the 5125's. This is the way to go unless U like gluing servos into place The charge jacks are available from NCFM. I use a SIRIUS charger and will charge between flites, and Eneloops at 2000 ma......... should have no problems! Davo

Flew her again today in 20 knot winds. Cg is at 87 mm. now and she still felt stable.
Will probably go to 90 mm. tomorrow weather permitting. Love the hyperion's. Pretty quick with 5 cells.

Cheers.

No wind AGAIN yesterday so decided to make the ballast. 3/4" brass rod - I love working with brass.

As you can see from the photo my ballast tube is not centred on the 85mm CG - there is more tube fwd of it than aft.

Each slug is 39mm long giving a total of 18oz

The stick is to keep them in place and the foam on the two slugs is to give some 'give' in the stack to fit the stick. CG still dead-on 85mm.

I think if you completey fill the ballast tube with metal, it won't be possible to get an appropriate CG - assuming all tubes are the same.

You should be able to get 8 slugs in there for a total of 25 oz. of ballast. In heavy wind you want the cg. forward.

All the advice I've seen so far is to keep the CG in the same place, ballasted or unballasted - why would the CG more forward in high wind be a benefit?

I'm thinking more stability, but higher 'stick force' and less controllability.

What am I missing?

Originally Posted by CaterhamTone

All the advice I've seen so far is to keep the CG in the same place, ballasted or unballasted - why would the CG more forward in high wind be a benefit?

I'm thinking more stability, but higher 'stick force' and less controllability.

What am I missing?

It's much more stable with a forward cg. Good if you want to go fast.
You can move it more to the true cg if your doing airobatics but it gets less stable.