|Apr 10, 2009, 11:03 PM|
Twistaholics tips, mods, plans, etc.
Welcome T___Taholics and soon to be T___Taholics. This thread is just for essential info and is set up to be a quick reference tool as the regular T___T thread tends to ramble. We like it that way but this will make finding some of the valuable information easier.
|Apr 10, 2009, 11:13 PM|
Kickin it off...
46 AX ...the standard. Run a 12.25x3.75 on this combo for max performance. 12x4 is ok too.
For a 4 stroke Hot Rod....Os 70 to a Saito 82 with a 14x4, 13x4
OS 61FX for 2 stroke max performance with a 13x4
Waldo's 61 ...."OS 61FX 13x4 and 13x10 for a hoot"
Plow's 61......."I like the OS 61FX/MAS 12 X 7 S2 Series (Scimitar) prop."
Ya know, this is a 60 but I dont know anybody runnin a 60
4s choice...OS 91 FS with a 14x4, 15x4
2s choice...OS 91 FX with a 14x4, 14x6
Crazies choice.... up to 125 4 strokes with a 16x4
All of these prop recommendations (of mine) are based on WIDE blades. Run a APC "W" blade or a MAS K-Series prop. Stay with a low pitch. This plane is not a speed demon and I have heard stories of them breaking in the air. High speed flutter is a major possibility also so keep your speed as such.
This is just some basic prop philosophy (IE:just MHO)
Props can be compared to the gears in a car for easier understanding.
Some props are built for speed and some props are built for power.
4 strokes and 3D (hi-alpha) flying have brought on the advent of basically "wider" available blades. These have a wider profile from the front (leading edge) to the rear (trailing edge)
Master Airscrew (MAS) are called "K-Series" props
APC uses the term "W" and will sometimes use the word "Wide"
Generics usually use the term "Wide"
The diameter of your prop is applicable to YOUR aiframe, landing gear, engine specs, etc. but the performance you want OUT OF the prop to make the airframe do what you want is a relationship to "pitch".
Think of it this way....
1st gear......a #4 pitch of the "WIDE" variety.
2nd gear.....a standard #4 to #6 pitch prop
3rd gear......a #6 to #8 pitch pitch prop
4th gear..... a #8 to #10 pitch prop
5th gear (overdrive) a #12 pitch prop
Things to keep in mind. 1st gear doesnt have much speed, but you get there quick! Remeber you ALSO SLOW DOWN JUST AS QUICK! The massive blade profile on these type props also have massive air CATCHING abilities when slowing. This same profile also harnesses the massive torque provided by our 4-strokes in order to hang your plane motionless in the air.
A torque monster motor (todays 4-strokes) really shines with these fat blade props and 3D flying. You want immediate power and power to do massive tricks (like hanging on the prop and flying on the prop in hi-alpha, to pull out of a spin, etc) so it becomes a match made in heaven. You dont particularly want the speed and you dont get it with this high torque low RPM set up.
2nd gear is a compromise....and most the time a happy one. Little speed and a little power. Longer roll out with a #6.
.....usually moving to high RPM 2 strokes at this point...
3rd gear is getting out of our catagory (of TwisTing) and more into sport. Moderate speed.
4th gear gets us to the Warbird catagory. 8's and 10's. Looong rollout. High speed. As is true with the 4Wide on braking, the opposite is obviously true here. With an 8, 10, 12 your prop braking will be virtually nil.
5th gear overdrive....speaks for itself
Waynes Prop Load Factor (PLF) chart is invaluble, as are the other tips in his post...FOUND HERE
Reinforce your rear fuse areas shown n the piccy's
Also reinforce your landing gear block with some tri stock or something.
Go with a sullivan tail wheel from the get go, or eventually the tailwheel will snag and tear your rudder off.
Battery mounted behind wing saddle (maybe not at first )
Below are some pics of a hatch that you create right behind the wing. This allows you easy access to the area you need to beef up. This also allows access to where your battery will (eventually) be. It becomes nessessary to mount the battery in this area in order to achieve a perfect balance for engines in the 5-60 2c range and for 4c engines in the 70-80 range.
|Apr 11, 2009, 12:16 AM|
Plans for a neato airplane.
Big thanks for these go to "NoMatta"
|Apr 20, 2009, 09:46 AM|
I like the OS 61FX/MAS 12 X 7 S2 Series (Scimitar) prop. The OS 46AX/APC 12.25 X 3.75 flew very well for me too. Those are the only two engines I've used on this airframe so far but the four strokes look good also.
|Apr 20, 2009, 11:30 PM|
Right now I have a Magnum 70 4stroke on mine. Its fun and flies well but could use lots more power. I did have an os surpass 91 on it for a bit. Flew much better but was a little heavy. A Saito 72 or 82 would probably be great.
|May 06, 2009, 11:43 PM|
Hey gents. I ran across this vid some time back, but could not remember where. Just ran across the below thread with the vid at the top. Looks very promising. I'll be trying it soon.
|May 07, 2009, 01:12 AM|
I'm a few days behind but...
Twist 40 ARF
Saito 82/APC 15x4W/30% heli fuel
Graph-Tech UCD46 landing gear
TP1320 2s/Castle BEC @6v
I think my CG is ~5.25". It's pretty good. Lifts the nose just slightly if you try to let it stall.
Flies NICE. Still need to work on rudder-to-aileron mixing to get rid of the very bizarre couple, but other than that, the thing flies amazing. Rudder-to-grass tail touches are no problem all day long. Pulls straight up like a rocket. It's great.
Also, landing technique:
Let the airplane float in. It almost likes to come in high-alpha. 3-points are super easy. Don't try to *grease* it in like a pattern ship or warbird though. She'll just take off and keep flying again when you let go of the sticks.
Edit: I now have an OS 70FS Ultimate and 13x4W prop. I broke it in half and had to glue it together, but I really like the OS 70. I don't think it has the pull that the Saito did, but I think it sounds better and seems to have more consistent throttle response, especially out of a hover.
|Jun 02, 2009, 07:43 PM|
If you are just setting up one of these, the neutral position for the ailerons will be the centerline of the wing. A straight edge is as good as anything for finding the centerline on the outer end of the wing. Some like to mix a little spoileron or flaperon in just for kicks but it is absolutely not necessary. The CG will be a bigger factor on how she lands. Most end up with the plane trimmed in such a way that she will settle down into a nice three point landing. Happy landings!!
|Jun 11, 2009, 12:00 AM|
Crazy Eddie, the first Picture shows the screws, I screwed 2 servo screws into the back of the cover into a piece of balsa ply I doubled under the frame towards the rudder. there is a tongue on the front of the cover Picture 2 I just slide under the exsisting lightning hole. quick and simple. make sure you use a spacer the same size as the cover inbetween the tongue and cover.
Sorry it took so long to respond I forgot we had this page lol.
Os 70 4 stroke surpass II 14x4 13x4 12x8
OS 61FX 13x4 and 13x10 for a hoot
Servo placement to go with Tweplica plans
|Jun 12, 2009, 12:25 AM|
Waldo, you crack me up.
Okay, we forgot to mention that the engine mount rails need to be shaved on the inside in order to fit a suitable (meaning really large and grossly overpowered) engine. The crankcase will be larger than the manufacturer intended so instead of plugging the holes and redrilling the firewall just bolt the mount to the firewall and start shaving the inside of the rails until the engine will sit down all the way. Then mark and drill the holes to mount the engine to the engine mount. Remember to mount large engines as far back as possible as CG will be an issue.
Please remember to restrain your airplane before starting the engine. Tie it down or use a tailhook or wing stops. Whatever you have to do to insure that the plane is secure before you start it up. If you don't, I hope you are really tough.
|Jul 06, 2009, 06:52 PM|
Twist 40 61FX Tuned pipe
Well thought id add my mods here since i have had a few of these planes.
The first PNP Twist i had Was great Had an Evolution .46 NX on it only mods to it were the landing gear, prop and tail gear.
Used the stock JR servos bought longer control arms for it.
Control arms used 2 sets Since the longest control arm were only 2 in the middle. I'm sure there are better ones out there.
Propeller that seemd to work the best for me.
Was great plane taken out buy a Crow..
Then i moved onto the Arf version since i had most the stuff, but i didnt have to much luck with the evolution engine and wanted that raging Power so i Switched to a bigger engine. Same airframe components just a bigger enigne.
And for even more power i had to go with a tuned pipe.
Pipe.8.5cc (.45-.60)12¾"2.0 oz56.951150
HeaderO.S. .61 FX & SF, .75 AX
O.S. .60 FP & LA(bolt through)
Evolution .61 NT
Jett .67L & .76L (not the .60L or .65)
Magnum .61 Pro
MDS .68-.78 FS Pro
ThunderTiger GP & Pro .61
Webra .61-.75 P5-H 2860286128622863
Propeller. I use on the OS .61 have to remember it's what works best for me. Alot depends on were you fly your plane. I live in the mountains and the air is thin here so a prop with a low pitch is better. High pitch props Stall and dont pull as well. Need low gears in the mountains.
This plane has broke in half on one landing after it had 50 or so flights on it.
So i peiced it back together and Beefed up the Area behind the cockpit were they all break sooner or later.
And thats about it.
Using a hitec optic 6 radio with the Hitec RX for my Radio needs.
Been happy with mine and fly it every chance i get Seems to be the only plane i have that flys right.
Since i last posted here i have made changes put the stock muffler back on the OS. 61 FX too many complained about the noise. Low end thottle response with a tuned pipe is sluggish and not good for trying to Hover have to have quick low end throttle response.
And switched prop to a 13X4 Narrow tip apc prop. Seems they dont make a 13X4 wide prop.
Planning on adding 3 inch wheels and a 14X4 Wide prop.
|Jul 13, 2009, 08:57 AM|
The big Thanks go to "NoMatta"
I have updated the earlier post to give credit where credit is due
Cant believe someone hadnt caught that
Ok, its a year later and the synth vs Castor debate rages on. Seems like a petroleum engineer would be the right guy to listen to, especially one that flew R/C.
Here is a great article I found on the subject. hope you enjoy!
Classic Exerpt from Clarence Lee...Castor vs Synth
Great Article from RC Model Reviews Castor vs Synth
|Jul 29, 2009, 11:52 AM|
North vancouver, B.C. Canada
Joined Apr 2008
my scale is nota good one but with the floats it is about 7lbs
Funny the t---t 60 as i remenber it was not much heavier?
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