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Old Aug 24, 2009, 08:26 PM
Zebro
yanickr1973's Avatar
Canada, QC, Blainville
Joined Sep 2007
161 Posts
Wwwwwwooooooooooowwwwwwwwwwwww!

Well guys, I maidened my sukhoi 20 minutes ago...
Just one word.... INCREDIBLE!!!

you have to know that I only flew parkfliers of my own design in the past, trainer types and little biplanes, I learned to fly alone...so let me tell you I was nervous like you can't even imagine

I adjusted the linkages to have the minimum control throw possible but even then the plane responds tooo fast for me

I even shouted at my wife "I won't be able to land this plane!!!!"

well it was a hard landing but I landed

only thing damaged is the cowling, I should have listened to you and screw it down, when I did a hard touch and go the cowl dislodged and rubbed against the prop, I was able to do another circuit and land but the prop needs to be replaced and the cowling needs a touch up


well, looks like i need to get used to the speed and responsiveness of the plane

for my first 3D and first ARF, I could not have asked for better

Thank you for listening...my hands are still shaking! lol
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Old Aug 24, 2009, 09:50 PM
Sippin the Koolaid!
losifanatic's Avatar
United States, NC, Hertford
Joined Oct 2007
16,466 Posts
Congrats on the maiden. Now that you got it out of the way. Its all up hill from here.
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Old Aug 27, 2009, 06:29 PM
Zebro
yanickr1973's Avatar
Canada, QC, Blainville
Joined Sep 2007
161 Posts
I found why my throws where so high

I found out by entering programming mode on my 4EX that my EPA's where set at 140%, now by adjusting the EPA's I setted the throws recommended in the manual and got back to fly the plane again...Much easier!!! now I can relax a bit and enjoy the flying.

I have one question for you....

I found a way to cheat my remote...as I don't have dual rates, I tried this: I have four models memory...I setted memory one with low rates and I setted the memory of model 2 to high rates, then I keep my remote in progamming mode on the model selection screen, then I can switch between model 1 and model 2....like having dual rates


my question is: is it safe to fly like this?

on the ground it works fine...anything to worry about?

Thank you!
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Old Aug 27, 2009, 07:21 PM
Sippin the Koolaid!
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United States, NC, Hertford
Joined Oct 2007
16,466 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by yanickr1973
I found out by entering programming mode on my 4EX that my EPA's where set at 140%, now by adjusting the EPA's I setted the throws recommended in the manual and got back to fly the plane again...Much easier!!! now I can relax a bit and enjoy the flying.

I have one question for you....

I found a way to cheat my remote...as I don't have dual rates, I tried this: I have four models memory...I setted memory one with low rates and I setted the memory of model 2 to high rates, then I keep my remote in progamming mode on the model selection screen, then I can switch between model 1 and model 2....like having dual rates




my question is: is it safe to fly like this?

on the ground it works fine...anything to worry about?

Thank you!
Just dont go past the right model # other than that it an awsome idea!
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Old Aug 27, 2009, 08:30 PM
Zebro
yanickr1973's Avatar
Canada, QC, Blainville
Joined Sep 2007
161 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by losifanatic
Just dont go past the right model # other than that it an awsome idea!
It's funny you say that loll.... thank god it only cost me a prop...

I switched the wrong way and ended up with memory #4 wich of course had channel 3 reversed...

well...this plane looks even faster when you have no control on it! lolll

I will program memory #4 and #3 the same as #2 so if i switch the wrong way again there will be no full throttle runaway


Oh and another thing, I installed a dubro micro tail wheel, well, it works fine but the rudder servo didn't like it, it is stripped now, I will upgrade to a metal gear one

it was a futaba 3144, any suggestion for a good replacement?


Thank you!
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Old Aug 27, 2009, 10:37 PM
Sippin the Koolaid!
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United States, NC, Hertford
Joined Oct 2007
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hs65mg servos are awsome .
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Old Aug 29, 2009, 04:41 PM
CSI
I promise, just ONE more order
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Del Rio Intl, Texas, United States
Joined Feb 2004
3,995 Posts
Mu SU is using HS65 servos and I agree that they are very good servos. They aren't the cheapest, but well worth the price to keep a nice model flying a long life!
I finally got to spend some time with mine today. 3 long flights in and I am totally happy with it. It flew just perfect, dead-straight lines, crisp controls, aerobatic tracking right on, takeoff and landing like a dream. I couldn't ask for a better flying plane.
I haven't found any problems with it, no strength issues with the construction, no tip stall stuff, etc. Just a great flying plane for a great price.
This one's a keeper.......
Ken
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Old Sep 15, 2009, 04:25 PM
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Joined Aug 2006
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After a few weeks with this plane, I realized that the wings were different in length by about 1/16". I had built everything "square" using the wing tips as a reference. 1/16" doesn't sound like much, but the tail in hindsight now looked horribly off. It almost seemed as though it was missing a layer of balsa at the wing root. Since I had already CA'd the tail in weeks ago, re-aligning it became quite a mess. Even worse, flying the plane was an unruly mess in any kind of tight maneuver. Tower fortunately was able to swap a replacement plane. Very good customer support, I must say.

The new wings are the same length.
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Old Oct 01, 2009, 09:48 PM
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Ocala, FL
Joined Jun 2007
148 Posts
Hello everyone,

I just ordered me a SU-31 to replace my dear departed GP Extra 330s. I'm noticing the issues I had with the Extra seem to be here too. My cowl came undone 90% of the time in a hard snap, and it always wanted to fall off to it's left at the top of a loop. The wooden x mount also broke after 30 flights or so, and a handful of hard landings! All in all a great plane, no pun intended, and I had a blast flying it.
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Old Oct 02, 2009, 10:56 PM
Registered User
Joined Sep 2006
590 Posts
Cooling

Has anyone else seen the need to cut cooling holes in the bottom of the fuse to get more airflow past the battery. My batteries are getting verywarm flying at 50-70% throttle doing moderate aerobatics. I'm using 1600 mah zippy lipo's and getting 6-7 minute flights.
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Old Oct 03, 2009, 03:57 AM
CSI
I promise, just ONE more order
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Del Rio Intl, Texas, United States
Joined Feb 2004
3,995 Posts
Bob,
I went ahead and cutout a cooling hole in the bottom of my fuselage, aft of the wing, while building it. I don't know if it was needed or not, but I know it's usually a good idea on most planes.
I am using Rhino and Flitemax lipos...3s 2150 25c/ 3s 2200 20c and neither get very hot. I am flying them for 9 minute flights and they come down warm.
I am having a blast with this plane, no troubles at all. It is able to fly all the aerobatics I can handle, great spins, inverted hands off....etc.

I used a strip of velcro under the top of the cowl to help hold it in place. I dremel'd out a small area on the top of the fuselage and glued the velcro into this recessed area. I stuck the mating piece of vecro to the top, underside of the cowl. This has held my cowl in place very well. It will not slide forward or sideways, yet can come free if I wiggle it enough when removing the cowl.
I did the recessed piece so the thickness wouldn't interfere with the cowl sitting flush with the top of the fuselage.
Ken
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Old Oct 06, 2009, 04:52 PM
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Joined Sep 2006
590 Posts
Battery Cooling

CSI,

My batteries thank you. I cut a couple of triangular cooling holes in covering at the back of the removeable hatch cover. My batteries are running at least 20 deg. cooler. At the end of the run they are well below 90 f. on a 70 deg. day.


Since the wood holding the cowl was so flexible, I ended up putting four very small wood screws (1 next to each magnet) to maintain alignment when I was gluing it together. After a bad experience on the maiden flight where the cowl came loose and "re-contoured" my prop, I have taken to leaving the screws in place for flying. Minimal weight gain and no cowl problems since.

Bob
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Old Oct 09, 2009, 02:39 PM
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Lynn Haven, FL
Joined Jul 2008
34 Posts
Arghhh......after about 30 perfect flights, it was bound to happen........I broke it! Trying to crab it in for a landing. I was going way too slow (should have known better) and attempted to perform a nice cushion type landing. had it almost dead stopped at 2 ft off the ground and then......plop. Nose went in first breaking the forward engine mount bulkhead piece and slinging the motor off. Well, I took it home, inspected it closer and found additional damage around the landing gear area. Some pretty long cracks along the side of the fuselage where the gear struts pass through.....both sides. Had to remove some covering to expose the cracks fully.
Not sure how to fix this, but I'll figure it out. Never had to repair before, so this may be kinda fun! Swinging by the hobby shop to get a sheet of plywood for the mount. I'm guessing I can use some epoxy to fix the cracks. What about CA for the cracks? Any advice?
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Old Oct 09, 2009, 03:03 PM
life is an oyster. shuck it!
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bennington, VT
Joined Mar 2008
3,178 Posts
i would use medium ca to initially glue the broken wood together, and then brush on a coat of epoxy resin over all the damaged/ca'd areas. this will reinforce the glued areas pretty well.
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Old Oct 10, 2009, 09:07 AM
Registered User
Lynn Haven, FL
Joined Jul 2008
34 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by istandalone
i would use medium ca to initially glue the broken wood together, and then brush on a coat of epoxy resin over all the damaged/ca'd areas. this will reinforce the glued areas pretty well.
Great! Thanks for the tips. I'll give that a try and let you know how it works out.
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