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Old Apr 03, 2009, 10:11 AM
"That's too low!"
Kokomo, IN
Joined Jan 2009
273 Posts
Question
Monster Power outrunner brushless motor

I am unable to locate the aluminum prop adapters that mount to the Exceed Monster Power 10 outrunner brushless motors using 4 small allen head cap screws. Can anyone help, please?
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Old Apr 03, 2009, 12:25 PM
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Dr Kiwi's Avatar
Chattanooga, Tennessee, United States
Joined May 2003
27,193 Posts
I wonder whether the hole spacing and threads are the same as one of these Turnigy/HXT adapters:http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=5497
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Old Apr 03, 2009, 03:28 PM
"That's too low!"
Kokomo, IN
Joined Jan 2009
273 Posts
Can anyone give me hole spacing, diameter, and the center hole depth and diameter on this turnigy prop adapter?
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Old Apr 09, 2009, 10:17 AM
"That's too low!"
Kokomo, IN
Joined Jan 2009
273 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Kiwi
I wonder whether the hole spacing and threads are the same as one of these Turnigy/HXT adapters:http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=5497
I have been trying to order one of these from Hobbycity, but the order simply won't go through. Has been very frustrating. Are these sold anywhere in the U.S.?

Also, another question. Concerning the Monster Power Motor, 60 size. After a flight last week, something was rubbing on the motor when the prop rotated. It turned out to be a small, brass colored ring inside the "bell housing" was protruding just enough to rub the stationary part of the housing. I don't know the terminology, but the ring inside the "bell housing" was on the rotating part of the motor. The overall diameter of the motor is 2 inches, and the brass colored ring is just under this diameter, and only about .03 inches thick (guessing) and can't tell the length, but appears to be quite short, maybe .1 inches. The ring is flush with the end of the "bell housing" in my other 60 size motor, so I removed the clip on the shaft, and moved the shaft enough to get some room between the "bell housing" (rotating part) and the stationary part of the housing and placed a thin piece of plastic between the two, and "pressed" the ring back flush with the "bell housing". This seemed to work, untill my next flight, and it is now rubbing again. Can't find any support on this motor, and wondered if anyone might have some advice for me.

Hope you can understand this as I really don't know the terminologies for these motors.

Any help appreciated...
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Old Apr 16, 2009, 09:12 PM
"That's too low!"
Kokomo, IN
Joined Jan 2009
273 Posts
I found that the permanent magnets are actually sliding or moving a small amount in the outer housing. When I press the ring back into place, it repositions the magnets to their original position. The problem is to stop the magnets from moving. The magnets appear to be epoxied in place, but I suspect it's something other than epoxy as I suspect epoxy would be affected by the heat produced by the motor. Does anyone have any insights as to how these magnets are bonded to the outer housing, and what I can do to stop the magnets from sliding or moving?
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Old Apr 17, 2009, 06:39 AM
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Challenger 413's Avatar
Dickinson, Tx.
Joined Sep 2004
5,290 Posts
I have read that using "JB Weld" to glue the magnets back down will work.

Challenger413
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Old Apr 17, 2009, 07:46 AM
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olmod's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Cranbourne East
Joined Apr 2004
10,347 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by flylower
I found that the permanent magnets are actually sliding or moving a small amount in the outer housing. When I press the ring back into place, it repositions the magnets to their original position. The problem is to stop the magnets from moving. The magnets appear to be epoxied in place, but I suspect it's something other than epoxy as I suspect epoxy would be affected by the heat produced by the motor. Does anyone have any insights as to how these magnets are bonded to the outer housing, and what I can do to stop the magnets from sliding or moving?
I have repaired quite a few motors with the same problem, my method is to leave the magnets in the origonal positions and with the drum off inject a drop of Loc-tite 480 (black max) around the outer face between each magnet so you see it run down between each magnet, then using either a power drill or similar spin the lot inside a cardboard tube to prevent eye damage, it also evens/ballances and helps the capillary action for 3 minutes,
after a few hours curing i repeat the process, i have had no failures after using this method , clean up while fresh with acetone thinners.
cheers.
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Old Apr 17, 2009, 09:45 AM
"That's too low!"
Kokomo, IN
Joined Jan 2009
273 Posts
Thanks for the info. I have two 60 size motors with this problem and think I will try JB Weld with one and Loc-tite 480 with the other.

Much appreciated......
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Old May 07, 2009, 06:06 PM
"That's too low!"
Kokomo, IN
Joined Jan 2009
273 Posts
Couldn't find any Loc-tite 480 locally so used Pro Lok, not realizing it wouldn't cure while exposed to air. Submerged it over night in water, and it cured. Have flown my Pulse XT 60 several times since the repair, and so far so good. Thanks again for the tip.
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Old Sep 17, 2009, 09:50 AM
"That's too low!"
Kokomo, IN
Joined Jan 2009
273 Posts
I now have several dozen flights on these motors, with no problem yet. If it were going to occur, it most certainly would have by now. It seems the blue loctite also did the trick for one of my 60 size motors, in case anyone has had a similar problem and is looking for a fix.

Thanks for the replys. I would not have come up with a fix on my own.

Many Thanks!!!
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Old Oct 25, 2009, 08:14 AM
"That's too low!"
Kokomo, IN
Joined Jan 2009
273 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Kiwi
I wonder whether the hole spacing and threads are the same as one of these Turnigy/HXT adapters:http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=5497
Dr Kiwi,

Finally got my hands on one of the above, and it's a perfect fit.

Many thanks!!
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