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Old Apr 05, 2009, 07:53 PM
Craig B
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United States, TN, Knoxville
Joined Mar 2009
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gave her a paint job so i can see it now... sharpie markers..
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Old Apr 06, 2009, 05:38 AM
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Amsterdam
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Dead wieght

Dear Brown, Of course it would be better to use necissary on board wieght to store battery energy instead of it just being dead wieght. Mine has 5 cells and it is no problem to fly for 6+ hours straight without a charge and still stay safe. Good luck with your new Gabby! Are you going to do the 2-3mm rise on the trailing edge right away? If so I'm curious to hear how it all goes as I have not tried that yet. Where are you located? Douglas.
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Old Apr 06, 2009, 10:36 AM
Craig B
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United States, TN, Knoxville
Joined Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglas Tarr
Dear Brown, Of course it would be better to use necissary on board wieght to store battery energy instead of it just being dead wieght. Mine has 5 cells and it is no problem to fly for 6+ hours straight without a charge and still stay safe. Good luck with your new Gabby! Are you going to do the 2-3mm rise on the trailing edge right away? If so I'm curious to hear how it all goes as I have not tried that yet. Where are you located? Douglas.
Hi Douglas,
I made several different battery packs with various weights last night. We'll see which one works best. I plan on making 3, 1mm removable carbon shims that I can sandwich between the fuse and TE of the wing with the nylon bolts going through them. As of right now, I plan to maiden with 90mm back cg and no shims. I will play with weight and shims as I become more familiar with flight. Of course, I'll have to play with camber and reflex settings as well. I'm in Colorado ~5400ft, so settings will likely be different from many suggestions out there..
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Old Apr 08, 2009, 12:00 PM
Craig B
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United States, TN, Knoxville
Joined Mar 2009
363 Posts
The Gabby arrived today! Here's some pictures of how it came out of the box. Packing was good. Quality of the model is good except I don't like the cobbly way fuse was built where the tail feathers mount. I think I might glue them on rather than try to make them removable. The manufacturer definitely missed an opportunity with how the stabs mount. I don't know why they didn't just put a nice shaped piece of balsa or spruce in there instead of a sloppy wad of white glue. Thumbs down on the level of thought that went into that! Also, i was kind of disappointed to see that the canopy shell doesn't match the seating grooves on the fuse. It will work for now, but I can see myself checking in with NESail about this or making one out of CF later. Also, I guess i never noticed it before in pictures online, but you can see sloppy CF strips through the paint on the wings and stabs. I guess that's the nature of in-mold painting though.
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Old Apr 10, 2009, 10:46 AM
Craig B
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United States, TN, Knoxville
Joined Mar 2009
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After watching the office last night (michael scott paper company), I did a little work on the Gabby... I noticed one of the tail feathers is cracked! I called NES, but no response after leaving a message. So, I'll deal with that later I guess.

So, I tried to line up the assembled wing on the fuse. The fuse seam is not exactly center, so i measured. I squared everything up with fishing line coming from the tail, but somehow, after taping the wing securely to pilot the mounting holes, there was a slight shift of the leading edge to the right and back. This was not realized until after the holes were tapped out and the wing was test bolted to the fuse. I don't think this will make a huge difference, as the tips are out of square by only about 4mm, but if it doesn't fly right, I will dig out the wood block and try again.

I decided to make the tail feathers removable. I drilled holes in the fuse and taped threads into the tail feather. They already fit tightly with the fiberglass dowls, but the nylon bolt will help it secure even more. I might put a little bit of tape on there too, but I think this will hold as good as the wing, for sure.

The hardware set was incomplete, so i had to go down to Ace, then lowes to get more nylon hardware. I'll tell you what, for close to $400, this kit leaves too much unfinished, but i guess that's what you get when you buy a European made model.


Then I cut rectagular holes for the servo wires. I cut with a chamfer, so the plastic recepticals could slide in without bottoming out on the inside surface.
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Old Apr 10, 2009, 11:42 AM
Craig B
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United States, TN, Knoxville
Joined Mar 2009
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Does anyone know where to mount the tow hook? The instruction manual doesn't say a word about installing it.
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Old Apr 10, 2009, 02:34 PM
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Amsterdam
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Gabby stuff

Brown, Hope it all goes together for you! I'm sitting at the moment for the Gabby with a CG of 70 mm or 2 and 3/4inches back from the leading edge measured very close to the fuse. My tow hook is 75mm or 3 inches back from the leading edge also measured close to the fuse. This may sound inverted and it is, because of the eliptical shape of the wing the tow hook is in back of the CG by 5mm, but if you look at the center of area of all the flight surfaces it is actually 10% or so forward of all the flying surfaces center of area. You can use my numbers or you can throw them away and I won't be hurt in any way as your plane is not mine and visa versa. Hope that gives you at least a good place to start from. I've already said in other threads here that I've not found a good sweet CG for the Gabby and your tow hook position is directly related to the CG. For me this works well with strong sharp high launches. (Only in light wind je gotta give a little up ELEV) so I think I've got it about right qua CG and hook placement.
A question for you: What radio do you intend to use? I'm using a Futaba 9C Super and it is really nice
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Old Apr 10, 2009, 02:39 PM
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Amsterdam
Joined Mar 2006
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Gabby stuff

Brown, Hope it all goes together for you! I'm sitting at the moment for the Gabby with a CG of 70 mm or 2 and 3/4inches back from the leading edge measured very close to the fuse. My tow hook is 75mm or 3 inches back from the leading edge also measured close to the fuse. This may sound inverted and it is, because of the eliptical shape of the wing the tow hook is in back of the CG by 5mm, but if you look at the center of area of all the flight surfaces it is actually 10% or so forward of all the flying surfaces center of area. You can use my numbers or you can throw them away and I won't be hurt in any way as your plane is not mine and visa versa. Hope that gives you at least a good place to start from. I've already said in other threads here that I've not found a good sweet CG for the Gabby and your tow hook position is directly related to the CG. For me this works well with strong sharp high launches. (Only in light wind je gotta give a little up ELEV) so I think I've got it about right qua CG and hook placement.
A question for you: What radio do you intend to use? I'm using a Futaba 9C Super and it is really nice
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Old Apr 10, 2009, 10:43 PM
Craig B
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United States, TN, Knoxville
Joined Mar 2009
363 Posts
Hi Douglas,
Thanks for the good info. I'm baffled with regard to CG... The almost useless manual that came with the gabby (published by NEsail) says CG should be about 40% from leading edge. That is about 83mm. I read on another thread that the factory recommends between 85-94mm from leading edge.... now 70.. I have always understood that the tow hook should be slightly behind the CG though. I think I might try and hand launch this a few times starting around 80mm back from leading edge. find the best balance, then retro-fit the tow hook and rebalance for the same point on the wing. Some times folks will say they can't balance a sailplane perfectly, but I think sometimes rising and dropping air will affect things more than people expect. I had an old sophisticated lady I built years ago and the tail would go sky high and dive when it hit rising air and visa versa when hitting a down current.

My current radio is a JR 6102. I'm gonna have to program the gear and auxillary channels in for flaps and mix those channels with my throttle stick, ail... I'll have to do a couple other mixes for camber, reflex and crow/flaps... but it should work... I would like a JR9303 or a 10x, but I want to try and see how this one works with such complex mixing... The Rx is a Castle Berg 7p.

I have sent an email and left phone messages with NEsail and no response regarding the cracked tail feather, so I'm not sure if I want to proceed with the build until it is resolved. I guess I will order the wing servos and hopefully, when they arrive, the tail feather issue will be resolved.
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Old Apr 13, 2009, 06:50 PM
Craig B
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United States, TN, Knoxville
Joined Mar 2009
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Got the order in with Tower... PRODUCTS ORDERED


Hitec HS-65MG Micro Servo U 2@ 63.98
Hayes Clevis Only (4) 2@ 5.38
Hobbico VoltWatch2 4.8V/6V Rx Battery Monitor 1@ 11.99
DuraTrax 5-Cell 6V 1400mAh NiMH Rx Hump XXX-NT U 1@ 21.34
GWS Servo Naro Fast High Power BB w/JR Plug 2@ 31.50
Dubro Electric Flyer Hinge Tape 1@ 4.79
Dynaflite Up-Start Standard 3/16" Rubber 1@ 27.99

SHIPPING AND PAYMENT
Current Charges (U.S. Dollars)
In-Stock Items: $156.97
Surface Shipment: Waived
Payment Type: PayPal Total Current Charges: $156.97


Still no answer from NESail about the cracked tail. I called and left another message today.
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Old Apr 17, 2009, 03:59 PM
Craig B
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United States, TN, Knoxville
Joined Mar 2009
363 Posts
Got to talk with Sal today. He said the tail feather crack is more like a crack in the paint due to the mold... he said he would try to find one without this defect, but not sure if he will be able to. He offered to sell one of his new models that still haven't been released yet with an at-cost price, so I might take him up on that once it becomes available! all in all, it will fly great I'm sure, just a little cosmetic flaw that gives it character!
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Old Apr 23, 2009, 10:18 AM
Craig B
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United States, TN, Knoxville
Joined Mar 2009
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Wing servo install

Last night I installed the wing servos, control arms and linkages. Unfortunately, the servo fairings don't fit due to the long servo and control arms. It would have been nice to have been noted in the manual so I would have known to cut the control arms down to a more appropriate size. Atleast I'm getting full 90 degree flaps though. I also glued the fuse linkage tubes to the inside wall.

After this photo was taken, I added hinge tape. Is hinge tape usually required on this type of model?
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Old Apr 24, 2009, 11:01 AM
Craig B
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United States, TN, Knoxville
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Got the tail all hooked up last night, used a soldering iron to bend the control arms. I also test balanced everything and looks like I will have to add nose weight even while moving everything as far forward as possible. I'm going to start out at 41% CG (85mm).
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Old Apr 24, 2009, 11:28 AM
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[QUOTE=browncbr1]The hardware set was incomplete, so i had to go down to Ace, then lowes to get more nylon hardware. I'll tell you what, for close to $400, this kit leaves too much unfinished, but i guess that's what you get when you buy a European made model.

QUOTE]

Sorry to read about the issues and your missed expectations. But I would have to say for EURO Models you do get what you pay for. My experience with EURO Molded Models is that they are state of the art building quality and design. Do not base your impressions on ALL EURO quality on the Gabby there are many quality EURO model makers.

good luck

sj
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Old Apr 24, 2009, 01:15 PM
Craig B
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United States, TN, Knoxville
Joined Mar 2009
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QUOTE]

Sorry to read about the issues and your missed expectations. But I would have to say for EURO Models you do get what you pay for. My experience with EURO Molded Models is that they are state of the art building quality and design. Do not base your impressions on ALL EURO quality on the Gabby there are many quality EURO model makers.

good luck

sj[/QUOTE]


Hi SJ,
Good point. After talking to many people, I think it is just this one particular manufacturer. I am not even sure the manufacturer supplies the hardware. It might be that the US distributor does that part, as I have heard that is the case sometimes.

I hope to have gabby up in the air this weekend sometime, but some poor weather is on the way.
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