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Old Mar 29, 2009, 12:20 PM
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Menasha WI, USA
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Build Log
Chop1's Barracuda

Okay, my second attempt at a scale boat. I chose the Barracuda by Dare Designs and designed by Pat Tritle. I bought the kit from M.A.C.K. Products .

I had a minor issue with the plans so I made a call to Rich at M.A.C.K., he directed me to Pat Tritle, and Pat forwarded me to Terry at Dare Designs. While this might sound like I got the run-around, it was actually quite the opposite. Each one of the men I talked to was more than happy to discuss my immediate issue, and then we went on to B.S. about other things that I might need to know while working on the build. THANKS for the help guys!!!

On to the build...

I have never built a hull before. I really liked the laser cut parts (they made it much easier).
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Old Mar 29, 2009, 01:48 PM
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Menasha WI, USA
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I added putty to the points of the strakes. While I was waiting for it to dry I built the rudder.
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Old Mar 29, 2009, 02:23 PM
Grumpa Tom
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Awesome! Looks great! I have admired the Barracuda kit for a long time. I am very glad to see a build thread.

Do you salt your beer? When I was 16 I had a part time job at a gas station. The manager was a cool guy and he introduced me to beer. He drank Schlitz, and so then I did also. He salted his beer. And so then did I.
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Old Mar 29, 2009, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kmot
Awesome! Looks great! I have admired the Barracuda kit for a long time. I am very glad to see a build thread.

Do you salt your beer? When I was 16 I had a part time job at a gas station. The manager was a cool guy and he introduced me to beer. He drank Schlitz, and so then I did also. He salted his beer. And so then did I.
The salt is for filling brass tube when I bend it, why salt? Because it was outside next to the grill and I'm in the garage.

The beer is for when I get thirsty - and it makes my crooked lines look straighter.
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Old May 09, 2010, 03:17 PM
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FINALLY back to work on some boat projects.

I got as far as getting ready to install the drive train, but things seemed out of alignment. Two thoughts come to mind:
1) the strut is indeed crooked or
2) it is supposed to be that way to counter the rotation of the prop/motor.

What is the general consensus?
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Old May 09, 2010, 03:50 PM
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Chop 1- It looks like the base plate was a little off when it was silver soldered to the strut. I do not think that it really matters because the strut is then jigged up in the press, using the shaft bearing of the strut, to put the bend in the base plate of the strut to mount onto the bottom of the boat. That means that the base plate bend is inline with the strut blade and the shaft bearing. Once the strut is mounted onto the bottom of the boat with the screws, I blended in the base plate with a little bondo and finishing resin for a smooth finish .

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Old May 10, 2010, 03:27 PM
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Excellent thread topic as I too have been interested in this hull in particular and Dare kits in general I look forward to watching your progress, set up and, solutions.

“The beer is for when I get thirsty - and it makes my crooked lines look straighter.”

Makes me make my straight lines crooked, but helps push through the last steps on occasion.

Kmot why would you salt your beer, sorry I just don’t understand the logic?
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Old May 11, 2010, 01:34 AM
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Salt in the beer will make it (or anything carbonated) go flat (an old trick when out drinking with friends). I used to put pepper in the beer every once in a while (especially when in Asia) it was said to make the oil (that was supposed to be invariably in it) settle to the bottom. The you would always leave that last 1/2" in the bottom of the glass and get a clean glass for the next one. I still do that when it is hot, it seems to give the beer a slightly different flavor that really goes down good on a long hot day.
Foo
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Old May 11, 2010, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankg View Post
Chop 1- It looks like the base plate was a little off when it was silver soldered to the strut. I do not think that it really matters because the strut is then jigged up in the press, using the shaft bearing of the strut, to put the bend in the base plate of the strut to mount onto the bottom of the boat. That means that the base plate bend is inline with the strut blade and the shaft bearing. Once the strut is mounted onto the bottom of the boat with the screws, I blended in the base plate with a little bondo and finishing resin for a smooth finish .

Not sure what my plan of action should be...
Do I heat it up and try to straighten it? I'don't have a machine shop, but I'm sure I could get it more in line than it already is.

Remember, the boat has a "V" bottom and the base plate is bent at the same angle as the bottom. This means the the base plate would be twisted slightly and be very difficult to make it look good.
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Last edited by Chop1; May 11, 2010 at 02:36 PM. Reason: added pictures.
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Old May 11, 2010, 04:36 PM
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Okay, maybe I made a mountian out of a mole hill.
After carefully bending the strut's base plate I think I'm close to where the allignment should be. Well, I'm getting there...
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Old May 11, 2010, 10:18 PM
Taking care of the pond.
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Looks better.
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Old May 12, 2010, 03:08 PM
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Yes looks quite the part.
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Old May 15, 2010, 03:48 PM
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Okay, at this point I decided to fiberglass the bottom of the boat. It seemed that it would be easier to do this now, rather than wait and have to work the glass around the prop shaft strut.

The epoxy has dried and - for shame -there is a BUBBLE!!! The dimenensions of the flaw are about 1/4" x 3/8" (.635 x .953 cm).

What is the best way to fix it? My guess would be to cut it out the loose glass and repair with more epoxy and a small piece of fiberglass. Any suggestions?
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Old May 18, 2010, 11:55 AM
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Chop,

Maybe sand through bubble and top with fresh glass as you stated or it’s rather small depending on how the sanding goes you may be able to simply add another coat of resin and call it a day?
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Old May 19, 2010, 01:35 AM
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Maybe you can inset the base so its flush with the hull for less drag = )
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