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Old Feb 21, 2012, 11:26 AM
Dave North
timocharis's Avatar
USA, CA, San Jose
Joined Apr 2004
5,254 Posts
Me too! Best I've done with 23awg is 10 turns. The 12T 23awg should actually be considerably more efficient than the 26awg/21.

Dave
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 10:19 PM
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Troy ,OH
Joined Jan 2004
1,813 Posts
had an issue today,not sure if anyone has had a similar situation.
Has my newly wound motor hooked up reprogrammed a turnigy plush with high timing.
It smoked at WOT. It was fine at mid timing but was soft WOT.
I hooked up a 6 pole motor and showed 3800kv on high timing,then switched back to mid and showed 3600kv. Seems as though the programmer card is backwards.
maybe im wrong but wouldn't the performance of the 6 pole be affected if it was actually running in high timing?
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Old Feb 25, 2012, 11:46 AM
Winging it >
leadfeather's Avatar
Joined May 2006
9,660 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Truglodite View Post
This one goes over 130mph:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=569B5h1fcpU

It's a 10P-6x2T-24awg-Y, which pulls 29A/11.26V with Nanotech 3s1000 45C packs, and lands barely warm.

The stator is basically 12 turns of 24awg, which isn't "very hard". Just keep things clean and tight as you go. A carefully polished T-pin held in a pin vise also really helps to make room for those last 1 or 2 turns. Dave's tut also has great advice about 'leaving slack near the transition turn'. Using this bit of advise is absolutely essential to pulling off a 12T-24awg dlrk.

Hacking 10p rotors is something a speed-RBW-rewinder should know. You're pretty much stuck below 120mph with 14p rotors. As RPM's climb up there, 10p becomes way more efficient and easier on the esc.

Kev
Kev,

Is there a build thread for this plane? Truly impressive for a BW motor powered plane.
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Old Feb 25, 2012, 01:21 PM
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Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
3,523 Posts
LF, I've been working on that; for now I have some details posted on my blog, including printable plans for the wing. I took enough photos to do a decent thread, but I still feel I should put more effort in to translating my notes & sketches in to more formal plans. My Solidworks PC is no longer, and the way Google Sketch free handles complex surfaces just ain't cutting it. Might be time to invest in RC Cad or similar. Either way, I will push out a thread within the next month or 2... scanned hand sketches or not, LOL!

Quote:
Originally Posted by grumman5277 View Post
had an issue today,not sure if anyone has had a similar situation.
Has my newly wound motor hooked up reprogrammed a turnigy plush with high timing.
It smoked at WOT. It was fine at mid timing but was soft WOT.
I hooked up a 6 pole motor and showed 3800kv on high timing,then switched back to mid and showed 3600kv. Seems as though the programmer card is backwards.
maybe im wrong but wouldn't the performance of the 6 pole be affected if it was actually running in high timing?
Not necessarily... higher RPM with higher timing is typical of a brushless setup, regardless what the pole count is. Also, a no load test on a high Kv motor like that can be a little dicey with regards to timing, RPM, Io... you won't see as big a change in RPM with a prop installed.

Kev
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 07:58 AM
evz
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Colorado
Joined Oct 2009
54 Posts
So I got some #24, three colored newbie wire. My first attempt to do a rewind on 2730 1300 Kv motor! When I took the old wire off, there is some kind of glue-epoxy stuff left on the stator. Should I scrape it off to make a more room for the new wire and how much without making damage? I have read it somewhere, but cannot find it now.
Everything is so tiny... not like the photos on my big screen
Thanks!
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 09:41 AM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
17,012 Posts
Try using a plastic stylus sanded to a chisel tip or a similar not sharp tool to pop the remnants of epoxy free from the green coating. It takes a little time but I've always been able to get them off and leave the coating intact if it was not damaged.

It is so much harder to have to re-insulate a stator that any efforts that will leave the original coating undamaged is worth the effort.

Trying to remove it to get more room for wire would not be a good idea and the room gained would be hardly anything at all.

Jack
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 12:58 PM
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Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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I usually proceed knocking out the bigger clumps with my xacto, using extreme caution around the corners. You don't need to go crazy unless you're shooting for a copper area record... just remove the big clumps and shave down any thick patches and you should be able to fit a decent wind in there.

If you get too anal about scraping, insulation nicks will start to appear in bad places. No worries, as you can repair nicks with black CA. Again, you don't need to get too fussy about the flat areas... pay most of your attention to building up protection over exposed corners because that is where shorts usually happen. Not trying to scare you off, but do get out a magnifying glass to check things over before winding; even a pin point size area of exposed steel on a corner will usually result in a short.

Kev
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 02:10 AM
220 221 Whatever it takes
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USA, IL, Belleville
Joined Dec 2009
276 Posts
What is black CA and where do you get it from?

Thanks,
Dave
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 03:23 AM
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Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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Here's what I use (IC2000):
http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html

I get the stuff at my LHS, but you can get it from just about any hobby shop online.

Kev
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 10:49 AM
Dave North
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USA, CA, San Jose
Joined Apr 2004
5,254 Posts
If you do have to go online, consider:
http://www.gobrushless.com/shop/inde...ref=LOCTITE410

Dan (the owner) has been a positive force in this business and can always use your support.

Did some time at Scott, so I've been through Belleville quite a few times. How are things there these days?

Dave
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 02:24 PM
Sorry, but they're all toys.
Eric Odle's Avatar
United States, WA, Bellingham
Joined Jun 2009
292 Posts
Second that for Gobrushless, I've been ordering from them if they have what I'm looking for. I've never been disappointed! I wish they had that MD wire in some finer gauges though...

Anyone had any experience with this HK "KV Meter"?

Hobby King K1 RPM-KV meter for BL motors

I regret I still guess at my KV ratings because I'm more interested in amp draw than anything else. I haven't attempted to do all the drill motor tests and such. Would this meter be an easier and comparably accurate way to come up with the KV rating?
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 09:50 PM
evz
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Colorado
Joined Oct 2009
54 Posts
It was like going on a first date, if I can can remember that far back. When reading the posts, I have not understand or paying attention to things, like, "treading the wire, squishing or flattening, using old props....".Now after I finally did my first motor, I understand those terms little better.
After cleaning the epoxy stuff with back of x-to knife, very gently, i did 7 turns on the first and 5 more on the second layer. The firs phase went good. As you probably remember your first one... you discover few things about your self. I mean like, patience, perseverance, quitting, looking for BIG hammer. Well outside of finding new purpose for my thumb nail and old broken props, it is done.
One weird thing, for some reason after wrapping tho of the phases, I started the last one on the wrong stator, so when the motor was finished, the wires end up not next to each other. My question is, will it work or should I fix it. I think it should, but it looks wrong. I measured all the wires against the stator and each other and have 0.00 Ohms.
Let me know what you think. There is a "shiny spot" on one of the wires, but there is no reading on that spot, maybe just the color rubbed off.
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 10:41 PM
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flydiver's Avatar
United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Jan 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Odle View Post
Anyone had any experience with this HK "KV Meter"?
Hobby King K1 RPM-KV meter for BL motors
I've had lousy success with the drill method. I have a wattmeter, tach, and strong LED light. It works but I found I have to be really careful about marking the can or I get pretty erratic readings.

I finally got a meter similar to the one you posed....WAY better. Wish I'd done it a long time ago.
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 02:36 AM
Foam, foam on the range....
didge's Avatar
Adelaide, Australia
Joined Feb 2009
402 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by evz View Post
My question is, will it work or should I fix it. I think it should, but it looks wrong. I measured all the wires against the stator and each other and have 0.00 Ohms.
Let me know what you think.
Sounds like your windings are shorted to the stator

They should be isolated from the stator, and each other. My meters indicate OL for this condition, but that may be different for your meter.

Cheers
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 09:03 AM
evz
Registered User
Colorado
Joined Oct 2009
54 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatulator
I checked continuity between the wires and the stator but not the wires to each other. I will check that from now on. How do you check ohms? Do I attach my test leads to each end of the wire?
To check if the wires are shorted I use an ohms meter before the motor is terminated. Attach the meter to one wire end and check the other two wire ends. Do that for each wire and if the meter reads 000 ohms it should be safe to ramp. This is just checking for continuity not resistance.

Hope that helps


Lance
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