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Old Jan 27, 2011, 01:32 AM
Foam, foam on the range....
didge's Avatar
Adelaide, Australia
Joined Feb 2009
402 Posts
3000kv

My motors arrived today (at last) and they are 14 magnet, the rumour that they had changed these to 16 mag ABC wind must be just that!

Cheers
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Old Jan 28, 2011, 12:32 PM
Dave North
timocharis's Avatar
USA, CA, San Jose
Joined Apr 2004
5,254 Posts
Good news indeed about the 3Ks!

You catching any of the nasty weather in Adelaide, or did you guys luck out?


Dave
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Old Jan 30, 2011, 03:48 PM
Foam, foam on the range....
didge's Avatar
Adelaide, Australia
Joined Feb 2009
402 Posts
We've had no storms and floods, luckily for us. It's been 42C for the last couple of days though!

Cheers
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Old Jan 30, 2011, 07:51 PM
One more flight...
n00ber420's Avatar
USA, AL, Mobile
Joined Aug 2008
271 Posts
Hi guys, I got myself a 2730, got a problem with twitching and stuttering on startup, got told on another thread that it could be a soldering issue.
Now before I go and re do 6 solder joints, I noticed this just as I took my motor off, and thought this might be the issue. looks like it could be normal though.
Name: 100_0511.jpg
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Should I just push it back in and re do my 6 solder joints
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Old Jan 31, 2011, 04:34 AM
Foam, foam on the range....
didge's Avatar
Adelaide, Australia
Joined Feb 2009
402 Posts
So what did you notice?
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Old Jan 31, 2011, 09:55 AM
Now where did I leave my jar?
Murman's Avatar
USA, NC, Huntersville
Joined Jul 2008
4,106 Posts
I was wondering that myself. The only thing I can see different is the black sleeve around the shaft that isn't noticeable in my B&RW's. Have you removed the bell from the motor yet? Do that and then see if the stator is secured to the shaft. It shouldn't move at all.
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Old Jan 31, 2011, 11:26 AM
One more flight...
n00ber420's Avatar
USA, AL, Mobile
Joined Aug 2008
271 Posts
I guess I should have been more clear :P...
theres another wire coming off the motor, and has come out of the heat shrink that the 3 main wires are in.


its the closest wire in the pic

I'm not into rewinding motors so dont know if its normal to have a loose wire
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Old Jan 31, 2011, 12:12 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
17,224 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by n00ber420 View Post
I guess I should have been more clear :P...
theres another wire coming off the motor, and has come out of the heat shrink that the 3 main wires are in.


its the closest wire in the pic

I'm not into rewinding motors so dont know if its normal to have a loose wire
Can you tell, on what looks like the single wire on the lower right, is that a piece of heat shrink tubing and do three strands of the winding enter that?

If that is the case, it looks like they brought a "Y" bundle out into that larger piece of shrink tubing along with the three ESC leads. If that is the case, the "Y" bundle is simply contained there with the three leads that go on to the ESC.

Can you tell if the bearing is fully seated in the bearing tube? That would be beneath that E-clip and the bearing would normally be seated flush with the end of the bearing tube or slightly below flush even.

If pushing on the end of the shaft moves the magnet housing (the rotating part) fore and aft in the bearing housing, it looks like that motor should be disassembled. The bearings need to be checked and reseated in the bearing tube, then the shaft position needs to be adjusted in the magnet housing to take the fore and aft (shaft sliding in the inner races) free play out of the motor.

When everything is right, the shaft will slide through the two bearings and there will just enough of the shaft exposed to fit the E-clip.

Jack
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Old Jan 31, 2011, 01:15 PM
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Truglodite's Avatar
Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n00ber420 View Post
Hi guys, I got myself a 2730, got a problem with twitching and stuttering on startup, got told on another thread that it could be a soldering issue.
Now before I go and re do 6 solder joints, I noticed this just as I took my motor off, and thought this might be the issue. looks like it could be normal though.
Attachment 3768685


Should I just push it back in and re do my 6 solder joints
The usual causes of stuttering on startup: a short in the windings, too big a prop, or voltage is too high... and with these motors sometimes you run in to ridiculous things, like magnets glued in backwards.

So first we need to know... what is your prop/battery/Kv?

That apparently 'loose' wire in the photo does look sloppy, but it is typical for a stock ABC 2730. I can't see any obvious problems in that photo, but there may well be a short hiding in there somewhere. If you have a multimeter, you should at least check for continuity between the bearing tube and one of the motor leads. If it's continuous, a wire is shorted to the stator and the motor will need a rewind. If not, you may still have what we call an 'internal short' (again, rewind to fix). You need a mOhm meter to test for internal shorts; a tool not found in most hobbyist's toolbox.

Kev

[edit: This is not to take away from what Jack already mentioned... you also need to check your mechanicals... make sure everything spins freely, no magnets are glued in backwards or rubbing on the stator... there will be 'cogging', but it should spin somewhat freely after you overcome the cogging force. What you don't want is the rotor to feel like its dipped in molasses (the 'molasses feel' is a primary indicator of bad windings).]
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Old Jan 31, 2011, 03:10 PM
One more flight...
n00ber420's Avatar
USA, AL, Mobile
Joined Aug 2008
271 Posts
Ok, I have resoldered my motor to esc twice to make sure the problem isnt at my soldering joints...and its still the same, even without a prop, it stutters, but once spooled it runs ok.
I have also re shrinked the 3 wires and that weird stray wire i have also put back into it to keep out of the way.

I made a video yesterday so you can get an idea of whats going on...
Mcfoamy in the street (3 min 5 sec)

It still flies its just bothering me.

Edit - Forgot to add my prop is 9x4.7 on 2s , and 1500 kv..nothing too unusual
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Last edited by n00ber420; Jan 31, 2011 at 04:11 PM. Reason: ^^^
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Old Jan 31, 2011, 06:47 PM
Foam, foam on the range....
didge's Avatar
Adelaide, Australia
Joined Feb 2009
402 Posts
Jack's got it - that's the Y bun - a lot of 2730's are done like that.

Cheers

Quote:
Originally Posted by n00ber420 View Post
I guess I should have been more clear :P...
theres another wire coming off the motor, and has come out of the heat shrink that the 3 main wires are in.


its the closest wire in the pic

I'm not into rewinding motors so dont know if its normal to have a loose wire
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Old Jan 31, 2011, 08:24 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by didge View Post
Jack's got it - that's the Y bun - a lot of 2730's are done like that.

Cheers
That's a different way to handle them I guess. Maybe even necessary or even a good idea on the smaller motors.

I've just done a couple of "Y" term and those were on bigger motors (TP24xx and DAT-750) and just sort of laid the Y bun on top of the windings.

Jack
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Old Jan 31, 2011, 10:09 PM
Winging it >
leadfeather's Avatar
Joined May 2006
9,796 Posts
More data continued from post 899

I received one of the 1000kV Bw from TrueRC today. Tested it as I had tested the other 2 motors.

Continued from post 899.

Here is the results for all 3 motors tested at 200 grams of thrust required for my tricopter, prop size vs watts:

... Prop, 1500kV stock, 1050kV Bergy, 1000kV TrueRC
.......................watt........watt.....watt

GWS 8043 ..... 30.8 .... 23.0 .... 25.3

GWS 8040 ..... 30.3 .... 22.8 .... 25.0

GWS 9050 ..... 30.0 .... 22.1 .... 24.1

Haoye1047 .... 30.1 .... 21.8 .... 24.3

GWS 1147 ...... 40.1 .... 24.5 .... 27.2


The TrueRc motors are a big improvement over the stock 1500 kV for this use, but not as good as the Bergy rewind. In the photos below you can see Mike filled up the stators with copper much more the the TrueRC windings did.

Seems the DD props are a bit better than the SF for the same diameter.

So, for further improvements, is even lower kV with more wire the way to go?

With the TreuRC motor max thrust was 330gr for the 8040 prop and 400gr for the 9050 prop on 3s.
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Last edited by leadfeather; Jan 31, 2011 at 10:54 PM.
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Old Jan 31, 2011, 10:25 PM
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Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
3,538 Posts
n00ber420,
The 9x4.7sf is way too big for 2s/1500Kv. Use a 9050hd.

Kev
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Old Jan 31, 2011, 10:40 PM
Registered Aircraft Offender
Truglodite's Avatar
Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
3,538 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackerbes View Post
That's a different way to handle them I guess. Maybe even necessary or even a good idea on the smaller motors.

I've just done a couple of "Y" term and those were on bigger motors (TP24xx and DAT-750) and just sort of laid the Y bun on top of the windings.

Jack
Jack, you're doing just fine as is. Minimizing the length of wire leading up to the bun solder joint is all that matters in terms of performance... maybe to a lesser degree of importance, keeping those leads equal length also helps it run smoother.

The y-buns on all my motors get scraped and soldered within 1/8" of the stator. I cut the soldered part to about 1/4-3/8" long, which leaves the bun sticking out no further than 1/2" from the stator. The bun sometimes gets tucked in the 3/16" shrink that bundles the 3 esc leads (depends on the wind, those big motors usually work better with the bun alone, smashed against the bearing tube and windings.)

Kev
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