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Old Nov 01, 2010, 09:57 AM
Crash=change of flying medium
bluesky123's Avatar
Boulder, CO
Joined May 2002
1,356 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MGeo View Post
Can the 14 Mag 3000Kv red and blue (not red and black) still be found?
If you can't find 14-magnet version, you can easily convert 16 magnet bells into 14 magnet one. The glue holding the magnets is pretty crappy--I was able to remove all the magnets with an old Xacto blade. A couple of the magnets were slightly damaged (small pieces chipped of), but exactly 14 were left undamaged. Then, I've cleaned the inner surface of the bell, spread 14 magnets around, and glued them with thin CA.

Boris
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Old Nov 01, 2010, 12:14 PM
Registered Aircraft Offender
Truglodite's Avatar
Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
3,513 Posts
I have mixed feelings about Castle controllers. I own a bunch and like 'em, but I have seen a few setups that actually worked better with a cheap overseas controller. My fleet runs on 7 Castle esc's (mostly Phoenix), 10 Turnigy Plush esc's, and a few off brand esc's. My Castles usually go on higher performance stuff and stuff where grams are critical. FWIW, the TBird esc's are an awesome lineup; IMHO on par with a Phoenix for most situations (where you don't need the sophisticated settings).

Yeah I use braking on a few of my wings to reduce drag while gliding; the Plush brakes are an on/off deal (feels like Castle's hard brake), and on Castles I use the least amount of braking needed to stop the prop during a dive (exact setting depends on prop/motor). No noticeable difference in prop wear compared to the danglers without esc breaking. My guess as to why: an ESC's braking force is sorta proportional to RPM. So at zero RPM there's pretty much zero braking force, and a stopped prop will turn no more than about 1/4turn upon landing... the movement is so small that the prop will see little to no braking force.

FYI, I have been using brakes on my Scrappy. It lands relatively fast and heavy, and has an expensive (and sorta harder to find) Graupner 4.7x4.7 CamSpeed prop. I've only replaced that prop once in the 2yrs I've been flying that wing in unfinished industrial lots (lots of hard dirt and rocks).

Cheers,
Kev
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Last edited by Truglodite; Nov 01, 2010 at 12:20 PM.
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Old Nov 01, 2010, 12:44 PM
Registered User
Joined Oct 2010
4 Posts
What about the CC Phoenix 45. I really have a bad time trying to config it. Any one knows about a clear manual for it?
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Old Nov 01, 2010, 05:29 PM
Go ahead... Build it to crash!
Fuegodeth's Avatar
Conroe, TX
Joined Apr 2007
2,630 Posts
yep, the T-Birds rock if you are running 3S setups. They have the ability to turn a high pole count motor to high rpm, which is where some of the cheaper ESC's will tend to fall short. Also, they are lighter than their cheaper counterparts. Any setup for 3d, where you won't be pushing over 20,000 rpm a cheaper esc will work just fine.
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Old Nov 01, 2010, 05:51 PM
Scott R/C Time Pilot
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NorthBend/Coos Bay,Oregon USA
Joined Dec 2009
1,492 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lullaby of Naked View Post
What about the CC Phoenix 45. I really have a bad time trying to config it. Any one knows about a clear manual for it?

Here is the CC Phoenix 45 manual.
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Old Nov 06, 2010, 03:37 AM
Sorry, but they're all toys.
Eric Odle's Avatar
United States, WA, Bellingham
Joined Jun 2009
292 Posts
It was a battle, but I managed to coax the wire off my first 2730 Red & black. I carefully used a butane lighter to soften the glue, and was slowly able to unwind everything. The quad strand wires broke several times when I pulled a little too hard, so I used my handy plastic pick/smoosher tool to tease out more wire and continue on. Sometimes I was able to push the strands through and pull them out the other side when there were windings holding them down.

There's still a bit of glue here and there, but no chips. Magnet spacing looks very good, though I noticed one of the three I ordered had more cogging resistance... And sure enough the magnets on it were not quite so even. 2 out of 3 isn't too bad I guess!

I was a little concerned about the "blockhead" stators, but this doesn't seem to be one of them. Now I just need to get the rest of this glue off and get to it!
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Old Nov 06, 2010, 03:54 AM
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Fourdan's Avatar
Antony (France)
Joined Sep 2003
2,915 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Truglodite View Post
Hello, my name is Kevin, and I'm an ampaholic.
what is the meaning of "ampaholic" ?
It is not in my english-french dictionary
(curiously dictionnaire in french is with two n, instead of only one in english)
Louis
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Old Nov 06, 2010, 07:59 AM
I'm overcoming gravity!
Murman's Avatar
USA, NC, Huntersville
Joined Jul 2008
3,831 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourdan View Post
what is the meaning of "ampaholic" ?
I'm looking forward to his response
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Old Nov 06, 2010, 10:44 AM
Dave North
timocharis's Avatar
USA, CA, San Jose
Joined Apr 2004
5,254 Posts
Looks good, Eric. I've never managed to completely clean the glue off because my initial attempts led to chipping a bit of insulation off, and that's a real pain. So go easy when trying to get that last bit off.

Doesn't look like a blockhead to me, so you should have room to work with.


Dave
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Old Nov 07, 2010, 06:04 PM
Will work for foam
wingnutt's Avatar
United States, WI, Muskego
Joined Apr 2005
1,502 Posts
Just unwound my 1300kV, 16 mag, red & blue version and there was no glue on the windings what so ever - a very easy unwind. Just 13, 14 or 15 turns per tooth.
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Old Nov 07, 2010, 07:41 PM
Sorry, but they're all toys.
Eric Odle's Avatar
United States, WA, Bellingham
Joined Jun 2009
292 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourdan View Post
what is the meaning of "ampaholic" ?
It is not in my english-french dictionary
(curiously dictionnaire in french is with two n, instead of only one in english)
Louis
Ok Louis here's the real answer: Any noun with "aholic" on the end implies addiction. Alcoholic - addicted to alcohol. Shopaholic - addicted to shopping. Those two are very popular this time of year!

The phrase, "Hello, my name is Kevin, and I'm an ampaholic" specifically refers to the self-introduction given by people attending an Alcoholics Anonymous meeting, a program to help recovering alcoholics.

So in short, what he's really saying is that he's addicted to amps, his response to my very timid 10-amp limit.


-Eric
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Old Nov 08, 2010, 07:38 AM
Will work for foam
wingnutt's Avatar
United States, WI, Muskego
Joined Apr 2005
1,502 Posts
Here is a question. When I unwound my 1300kV, there were 14 turns per tooth for all but two teeth, which had 13 and 15 turns on them. So, lets call it a 14 turn ABC wind. It had 26ga wire which was rather loosely wound. My stock kV test came up with 1325kV.

On the 'rewind-RBW', Timocharis states a 1336kV with 13 turns of 24Ga wire. I am stumped as to how fewer turns using better wire and winding technique can produce such a slight increase in kV. I guess I will wind 13 turns, as that is all that my thickly insulated 24Ga will allow, and see what I get. I will try to test it tonight and post all results.
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Old Nov 08, 2010, 10:15 AM
Dave North
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USA, CA, San Jose
Joined Apr 2004
5,254 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnutt View Post
On the 'rewind-RBW', Timocharis states a 1336kV with 13 turns of 24Ga wire. I am stumped as to how fewer turns using better wire and winding technique can produce such a slight increase in kV.
There are at least two factors to consider. First, they change the magnets constantly. A mag with lower magnetic capacity will produce a higher Kv. So maybe the change wasn't all that small in my test motor, since it may well have had a lower Kv than yours to start with.

Another consideration is winding method. These motors have always been wound clockwise (viewed radially from the outside of the tooth) with a clockwise transit (viewed from the bearing-tube side). This effectively lowers the wind count by approximately 1/2 turn because the transit wire actually ends up closer to the wrong tooth for half its traverse through the slot. You end up actually generating a slight opposing force in the "dead" (unfired) tooth during each phase, which effectively raises Kv while lowering efficiency.

In the end, you're comparing something more like 13-1/2 turns to 13 turns.

This is not meant to resurrect the old debate about "closing the loop" in order to count a turn. Whether a turn goes completely around a tooth is not very important. What does matter is where the wire lies in relationship to the tooth.


Dave
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Old Nov 08, 2010, 02:49 PM
Will work for foam
wingnutt's Avatar
United States, WI, Muskego
Joined Apr 2005
1,502 Posts
Dave - That makes sense. If weaker magnets make for a higher kV, then I guess mine falls into that camp. Hope it is not too much of a problem down the road. Cogging still feels incredible though.

As far as winding method goes, my preference is counter-clockwise on around the tooth with a clock wise transit. I feet that it not only closes the loop more, but it keeps the entry to the tooth tight against the tooth wall and not blocking entry to the previous tooth. To each his own I guess.
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Old Nov 08, 2010, 04:15 PM
Dave North
timocharis's Avatar
USA, CA, San Jose
Joined Apr 2004
5,254 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnutt View Post
As far as winding method goes, my preference is counter-clockwise on around the tooth with a clock wise transit.
Either that or its mirror variant (which I use: clockwise wind, counterclockwise transit) is fine. The method used by the turnigoids is wrong, but often pictured in winding diagrams so...


Dave
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