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Old Feb 03, 2010, 11:31 AM
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tried to wind a dlrk last night. Using 24g wire and could not even get ten turns

Is 26ga better for a dlrk or am I just out of practice?
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Old Feb 03, 2010, 11:37 AM
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Patience danielson, patience... 10 turns of 24awg will fit easily, just keep everything tight (except for the inter-tooth transit turns), and you'll get it in there. You should be able to get 7turns going up, with the 7th turn sort of overlapping the 6th between the poles.

Kev
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Old Feb 03, 2010, 11:39 AM
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its a little harder to wind with the microdan good stuff but damn is it GOOD stuff

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Patience danielson, patience... 10 turns of 24awg will fit easily, just keep everything tight (except for the inter-tooth transit turns), and you'll get it in there. You should be able to get 7turns going up, with the 7th turn sort of overlapping the 6th between the poles.

Kev
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Old Feb 03, 2010, 04:01 PM
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You must be referring to the thin insulation that scratches easy? That is a drawback sometimes, but overall I've actually found MD wire to be easier to wind. MD wire stays put better than other stuff I've used (more pure copper, pliable insulation?). Whatever it is, my other wire is more springy, so I have to work much harder to keep the turns from straying off the intended path.

Anyone else have this experience?

Kev
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Old Feb 03, 2010, 08:40 PM
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I think most all wire is made from virgin copper, so purity is prob not the issue, hardness is. Copper is anealed by heating and cooling very guickly (unlike steel) this makes it soft, however copper "work hardens" very easily, just spoiling wire from a large roll, to a smaller one (often it gets rolled "backwards" durring respooling) is enough to significantly harden the wire, and make it much more difficult to work with.
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Old Feb 03, 2010, 09:10 PM
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Come to think of it this is the first time I tried a rewind with the house cooler. Maybe the wire needs to be warmed a little to get it to wind easier.

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I think most all wire is made from virgin copper, so purity is prob not the issue, hardness is. Copper is anealed by heating and cooling very guickly (unlike steel) this makes it soft, however copper "work hardens" very easily, just spoiling wire from a large roll, to a smaller one (often it gets rolled "backwards" durring respooling) is enough to significantly harden the wire, and make it much more difficult to work with.
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Old Feb 03, 2010, 09:11 PM
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Great info Richard.
So maybe MD wire has undergone less backwards spooling. The true test would be to compare the resistance of MD versus some of the other wire I have.

Kev

[edit: I'm pretty sure copper annealing occurs at temperatures that would result in combustion of common household materials, so feel free to rewind in comfort.]
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Old Feb 04, 2010, 01:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Truglodite View Post
[edit: I'm pretty sure copper annealing occurs at temperatures that would result in combustion of common household materials, so feel free to rewind in comfort.]
I also am sure the temps required would burn the insulation of the wire, so "re-softening" is not possible.

Copper also hardens over time, perhaps some of the springy wire is old? If you got it from me, it was anchient
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Old Feb 04, 2010, 04:15 AM
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Hi

It anneals at between 700 F and 900F, pretty hot
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Old Feb 05, 2010, 12:48 PM
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Thanks for your replies.


I haven't got the motor on m bench yet, it's still en route. But i like to give up another order at my local dealer and I'd like to order some replacement bearings.

Can anyone give me the dimensions?
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Old Feb 05, 2010, 01:52 PM
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That actually came up about 5 pages back. info quoted from Truglodite. ( I haven't measured myself).

"3x7x3mm bearings"
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Old Feb 05, 2010, 02:59 PM
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2730 Forensics

I just completely disassembled one of my "scrap" 2730's for the purposes of research.

I verified that the bearings are indeed 3.0x7.0x3.0mm. They are held on the bearing tube with a hint of red loctite and have a loose "slide in" fit. So if you don't have a press, heat (or solvent?) should make them pretty much fall out. If you have a press and don't care if the bearings get sacrificed in the process, use a 1.125" long piece of 0.092" piano wire, tilt it in to the bottom bearing, and push it out. That's what I did and it popped right out without damaging the bearing seats on the tube. FWIW, I used a piece of oak with a various size holes in it for the "hard jaw".

Also worthy of note, the stator came off with a very wimpy tug on my 1/2 ton arbor press (touched the handle and it just dropped out on its own). So if you need more clearance up front, don't be afraid to experiment with the stator fit (and/or reversing); I doubt you could damage anything in the process, unless you push off axis and it jams up.

Now I have a stripped bearing tube begging for Bocas and a really hot wind.

Kev
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Old Feb 05, 2010, 03:21 PM
Dave North
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A word of caution: I think you'll find the manufacturing variance to be a bit wild. Sometimes the bearings will be loosey-goosey (if I remember the machining terminology correctly) and sometimes jammed. The same goes for the stator fit.

Actually, the same goes for all the components. I've even gotten one where the tube was oversize and wouldn't fit the mount or stator, so they just hammered it in (I could see the marks). That one was a write-off.


Dave
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Old Feb 05, 2010, 04:38 PM
Go ahead... Build it to crash!
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LOL. That guy at the factory was on his first day, or his last...... or both..
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Old Feb 05, 2010, 10:15 PM
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Right, we're bargain basement machining and assembly, so I wouldn't be surprised if all of the stators were hammered on with a dulled down framing hammer. I wonder why half the motors I get from "them" snap, crackle, and pop during the no-load test anyways.

If I had a bag of Bocas, I'd reQC all of my rbw's and ax's. Then again, I've seen expensive motors with botched stator installs and what have you, so that goes for every motor that winds up in my garage. Think people would pay $10 more for a rewound rbw with Bocas? nah...

Kev
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