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Old Jan 17, 2010, 12:06 PM
Fly me to the moon...
Atom1025's Avatar
Sacramento
Joined Jun 2005
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tricks?

Heres what works for me, I dont think I have seen anyone ever mention this so perhaps there is something bad about my way but I have not had a short yet.

I came across a dental or surgical set of stainless steel pokers,scrapers, cutters etc.

One of the tools has a 3" needle point that tapers from roughly 26g down to 22g at the base.

I use a prop like everyone else does but when I am threading the stator I will use this stainless needle to make a path for the next turn, the needle always goes in resistance free and floats through smooth as silk.

It doesn't seem to smash the wire at all. Simply pushes them aside. Sometimes I have to wiggle it around to make headway if its getting tight, but for the most part it goes in effortlessly.

Thoughts, concerns, or praises?

Adam
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Old Jan 17, 2010, 12:19 PM
C.H.E.A.P.
lance dalton's Avatar
Chino Hills, CA.
Joined Nov 2004
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Originally Posted by Fuegodeth View Post
However, I probably wouldn't have to in a tractor, as it didn't rub when spinning by hand, only when you pushed on it and turned would there be any interference. Anyway, I think my fingers need to heal a bit before I try any more.
Wouldn't that be a possible short on a nose in?

Lance
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Old Jan 17, 2010, 12:27 PM
C.H.E.A.P.
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Chino Hills, CA.
Joined Nov 2004
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Originally Posted by Atom1025 View Post
It doesn't seem to smash the wire at all. Simply pushes them aside. Sometimes I have to wiggle it around to make headway if its getting tight, but for the most part it goes in effortlessly.

Thoughts, concerns, or praises?

Adam
Sounds like it works.
I've used bamboo skewers and toothpicks to open the threading gap. Another helper is to burn the insulation off the wire before it's threaded. Gives a little more clearance. Just make sure the wire point is deburred.

Lance
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Old Jan 17, 2010, 12:30 PM
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Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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Adam, I don't see anything wrong with doing it that way if it works. It also helps being careful not to twist the wire, and keep each turn snug against the previous turn before you pull it tight (ie you don't want to yank on the wire until it's exactly how you want it). Oh yeah, besides braking wires, you have to be careful pulling too hard on some stators, since that can also create stator shorts; I know I've ruined a stator or 2 by pulling too hard. Dave has several great tips on DLRK rewinds in his "how to" thread, a must read IMO. My favorite from that series is the "loose DLRK transit".

Kev
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Old Jan 17, 2010, 03:56 PM
five by five
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Panama City Bch, FL
Joined Jan 2009
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Originally Posted by Atom1025 View Post
Heres what works for me, I dont think I have seen anyone ever mention this so perhaps there is something bad about my way but I have not had a short yet.

I came across a dental or surgical set of stainless steel pokers,scrapers, cutters etc.

One of the tools has a 3" needle point that tapers from roughly 26g down to 22g at the base.

I use a prop like everyone else does but when I am threading the stator I will use this stainless needle to make a path for the next turn, the needle always goes in resistance free and floats through smooth as silk.

It doesn't seem to smash the wire at all. Simply pushes them aside. Sometimes I have to wiggle it around to make headway if its getting tight, but for the most part it goes in effortlessly.

Thoughts, concerns, or praises?

Adam
i use a curved dental pick but on my last motor it started to bend. i have a mac pick set i'll dig up today. it has a straight poker but it most likely needs polishing.

poking a path for the tight ones does make a huge difference!
-sj
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Old Jan 17, 2010, 08:53 PM
Go ahead... Build it to crash!
Fuegodeth's Avatar
Conroe, TX
Joined Apr 2007
2,630 Posts
Well, 7t of 22g Y is a great wind on this little motor. We put together a wing warrior 25" flying wing that my friend won in a raffle. It's supposed to be a slope glider, but we mod'd it with a motor mount stick in the rear, and 1000mah 3s and TB 18 controller running APC 4.5 x 4.1. It pulled 18A on WOT on a fresh 3s pack on the bench. In the air it was a joy to fly. We both got a turn flying it, but he stripped a servo after that. Metal gear servo's will be installed soon I think. It went vertical at just over half throttle and I am guessing was nearing 100mph at WOT. It cruised nicely at 1/4 throttle and everything came down nice and cold at the end of the flight. Of course the the back of the motor and exposed wires are right in the wind so cooling is perfect.

Conclusions - Blue N' Red wonders are awesome.
Using the Thrust washer to create room does not seem to have any negative effects on performance.
We could prop for more with bigger batt and esc, but as is it's coming down cold, so I don't think efficiency is hurting.
I need one of those little wings because it was great.
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/247032.asp#More

My ABC 12t Y 24G only pulls 8A on a full pack with 8x4 prop, so I think kv is lower. I will try a 9x5 and see how it goes when I can get my hands on one. I'm all out.
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Old Jan 17, 2010, 09:13 PM
Dave North
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USA, CA, San Jose
Joined Apr 2004
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Originally Posted by Fuegodeth View Post
Using the Thrust washer to create room does not seem to have any negative effects on performance.
Doesn't sound like it's any problem; the performance is clearly enough to crank up the grin factor!

Just curious though: can you see the stator sticking up behind the mags, or is it still at least flush?


Dave
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Old Jan 17, 2010, 09:23 PM
Go ahead... Build it to crash!
Fuegodeth's Avatar
Conroe, TX
Joined Apr 2007
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I can see just a couple layers of stator material poking out. Very little though. If you have a motor you can try it and see, it's a very reversible treatment.

Edit : I just looked at my ABC one and if I'm pulling on the prop to simulate load, I can see about 2 stator plates due to the play in the motor. On my friends, I could maybe see 3 - 4 stator plates. So, it's not much at all. In looking closely at the ABC motor, it does seem that the 1300kv turnigy has a bell with much more room for wire because my 12 turn 24g has oodles of room between the bell and the winds. Between the 3000kv and the 1300kv the stators appeared identical, but the bells are definitely different. Apparently even beyond the 14 mag vs 16 mag layout. Has anyone else had a chance to compare? I'm kicking myself that I forgot my camera this weekend, so I only got camera phone pics, and I need the thing to read the memory card to get them on the PC and it's at my office, so I'll get it tomorrow to upload them. They won't be as high res as I would like. Now that I'm back I can photograph the ABC one and get that up tomorrow as well. I think I'm going to order a couple more of these motors to play with. I'll get slow shipping and hopefully my hands will have healed by the time they arrive.
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Old Jan 17, 2010, 09:35 PM
Dave North
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USA, CA, San Jose
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Originally Posted by Fuegodeth View Post
Very little though. If you have a motor you can try it and see, it's a very reversible treatment.
I asked because I've tried this several times and on each motor the amount of stator sticking out was different. I wondered if you'd actually come across one that sat flush.

In fact, I think I'll start checking again and see if I can find one that does. That would be way cool and leave tons of room to work with. Pity they couldn't design the motor properly in the first place, but if those guys over there ever actually do figure out the basics, everybody's gonna be in trouble.


Dave
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Old Jan 17, 2010, 09:43 PM
Go ahead... Build it to crash!
Fuegodeth's Avatar
Conroe, TX
Joined Apr 2007
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Originally Posted by timocharis View Post
the performance is clearly enough to crank up the grin factor!

Dave
It was for sure. My friend flies many EDF jets and he said it's the fastest plane he's ever flown. I have a 40" wing with a mega 16/15/3. and this thing was much faster. I had a big smile today. Even more so because it was a motor I wound. I think it's my 9th or so and for certain my best success so far.
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Old Jan 17, 2010, 10:05 PM
Go ahead... Build it to crash!
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Conroe, TX
Joined Apr 2007
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Originally Posted by timocharis View Post
I asked because I've tried this several times and on each motor the amount of stator sticking out was different. I wondered if you'd actually come across one that sat flush.

In fact, I think I'll start checking again and see if I can find one that does. That would be way cool and leave tons of room to work with. Pity they couldn't design the motor properly in the first place, but if those guys over there ever actually do figure out the basics, everybody's gonna be in trouble.


Dave
If you just had some thin washers to shim it you could control it better. Just find one that fits the shaft right and I think that would work. I didn't need all the room it created. Half would have done nicely. Just a thought.
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Old Jan 17, 2010, 11:55 PM
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Carmichael, CA
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Fuegodeth, your motor sounds like it worked very good. That's also a perfect combo for that plane; keeps the weight low, but the speed is still aplenty. I think if you built one for yourself you would have a ball for years to come. Here's an old thread where I posted videos of my scrappy:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...85#post9977985

It only went 90mph after I rewound that motor (second video). That wing grew on me over the years, and I still fly it weekly. I bought another scrappy core, which I'm planning to do the "riteway" with a 4s/arc110 setup. I've had all the parts for "scrappy #2" sitting around for almost a year; other builds keep getting in the way. #2 should break past 100, if it doesn't melt in to pieces first.

Cheers,
Kevin
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Old Jan 17, 2010, 11:56 PM
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Carmichael, CA
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Originally Posted by timocharis View Post
but if those guys over there ever actually do figure out the basics, everybody's gonna be in trouble.


Dave
Amen!
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 12:16 AM
Go ahead... Build it to crash!
Fuegodeth's Avatar
Conroe, TX
Joined Apr 2007
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How loud was yours? My friend had a fairly long stick to use as the mount and we took advantage of it. The motor was hanging pretty far off the back end so we could get more clean air, and put more battery up front. It was the quietest flying wing I have ever heard. I have several myself, and started on a zagi as my first plane. they have all made a pretty good racket. This one almost sounded like a normal plane. Also, you would have room for a 7 to 8" prop and still clear the ailerons if you wanted to do it on 2S. I think the clean air to the prop helped efficiency.
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 12:41 AM
five by five
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Panama City Bch, FL
Joined Jan 2009
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Originally Posted by Fuegodeth View Post
If you just had some thin washers to shim it you could control it better. Just find one that fits the shaft right and I think that would work. I didn't need all the room it created. Half would have done nicely. Just a thought.
it is (was) common procedure to use shims to finely align the commutator with the brushes in brushed motors. most hobby shops should have a assortment of motor shims on hand. i have a few inrunners that could use a shim or two but were glued from the factory
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