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Old Jan 14, 2010, 08:53 PM
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Truglodite's Avatar
Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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LOL Dave, now I remember... it was you. I do need to start working on that memory thing. Never thought of it that way with pushers either. I would rather have my shaft pull out than damage a bearing now that I think of it.

Thanks,
Kevin
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Old Jan 14, 2010, 08:58 PM
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Truglodite's Avatar
Carmichael, CA
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oops... double
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Old Jan 14, 2010, 10:30 PM
Go ahead... Build it to crash!
Fuegodeth's Avatar
Conroe, TX
Joined Apr 2007
2,630 Posts
Yeah, I don't think the bell would come all the way out. I have a Thrust 30 motor from PA that is mounted with shaft going through the firewall. The circlip disappeared at some point, actually in a crash. It was just gone. Now the motor acts as a shock absorber if i dork the nose in. It moves back about 1/2 if you push it. As soon as you blip the throttle it pops right back into place.
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Old Jan 15, 2010, 11:07 AM
Go ahead... Build it to crash!
Fuegodeth's Avatar
Conroe, TX
Joined Apr 2007
2,630 Posts
Well, 12 turns of 24g is on there. It was pretty tight. My fingers are very sore today. I don't know how 13t would fit. I guess I just need to keep working on my skills. I haven't had a chance to run it up yet, but it sure looks nice to me.
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Old Jan 15, 2010, 03:37 PM
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lance dalton's Avatar
Chino Hills, CA.
Joined Nov 2004
2,009 Posts
Mid-airs and no clip.
A friend use to run his without a clip on his 3D setup with a prop-saver. The prop came off when the planes hit but to his suprize the bell was gone too. Found the bright orange prop but it took us awhile to find the bell in thick grass.

Fuego, Congrats on getting the wire on. You'll like it and mine run about 10.5 amps with the 8x4 DD 3s.
Can we get a pic of your 12T?

Lance
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Old Jan 16, 2010, 12:30 AM
Go ahead... Build it to crash!
Fuegodeth's Avatar
Conroe, TX
Joined Apr 2007
2,630 Posts
I'm at a friends house right now and out of town. I'll take and upload one when I get back.

I made the first one (14 mag) for a little wing he's making. I did 12t 24g dlrk delta. However, we just ran it up with a 4.5 x 4.1 prop and in pusher it made the bell rub the wire in a couple of places. There were a few burrs on the inside of the bell when I got it. I ground them off and it felt smooth to the finger, but I guess not quite. it didn't rub turning by hand, but the thrust was enough above half throttle. Caused a few sparks. In tractor it would have been fine. So, I'm going to rewind that one, or teach him to because I don't know if my fingers can do it right now.

You see, I did my 16 mag ABC 12t 24g last night and finished at midnight. I snapped a wire, 11th turn 3rd tooth 2nd phase. I couldn't bear to unwind 3 teeth, so I soldered it back and managed to tuck the heat shrink in the gap. seems solid and ran up nice once I finished it. So two motors in two nights and I'm having issues typing right now. I may try 7 or 8t of 21g Y for his little flying wing to see how that goes. If not, then I'll try the 24g again.

Anyway, I'll get pics up when I can.
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Old Jan 16, 2010, 04:35 PM
Go ahead... Build it to crash!
Fuegodeth's Avatar
Conroe, TX
Joined Apr 2007
2,630 Posts
Well, I have rewound that motor for my friend again, but I ended up doing 7t of 22g. it packs the stator pretty full. it runs up fine, but haven't had a chance to do much else with it so far. According to the chart it should be close to 2500KV hopefully. I deburred the bell as best I could and no sparks this time. I'll post pics when I can.
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Old Jan 16, 2010, 06:50 PM
Dave North
timocharis's Avatar
USA, CA, San Jose
Joined Apr 2004
5,254 Posts
Well, FD, you've hit the limit on those motors. It's not a question of how much copper you can get in the slots. The problem is the clearance from stator to can. And just to drive you nuts, they're all a little different. Some can tolerate 3 layers, some can't. And of course it's even trickier when you're building a pusher.

I had an ABC that was tight front-to-back and wanted to do something interesting, so I made a 6T 22awg. It was a fine motor, but I really liked the way it looked:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=1946845


Dave
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Old Jan 16, 2010, 09:49 PM
Go ahead... Build it to crash!
Fuegodeth's Avatar
Conroe, TX
Joined Apr 2007
2,630 Posts
That is a beauty. In order to facilitate clearance in Pusher configuration, I moved the little brass thrust washer to add clearance for the can. It moves the mags and all about 3/4mm forward and allows it to clear nicely. it's probably about the same place the can ends up when the play in the shaft is tugged forward in a tractor configuration. So, now there is clearance and the slots are pretty darn full. KV is ideally going to be around 2500 for this little plane. The plane is very nearly complete and flight test will be tomorrow. He needs a new esc as his ancient jeti 18 stutters this motor. My Phoenix 10 ran it up as smooth as can be from first click of throttle to full. It would overload that ESC in the air big time though, so a TB 18 will probably be what does the trick. we'll get that in the AM and try it out.
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Old Jan 16, 2010, 10:43 PM
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Truglodite's Avatar
Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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Now that's an interesting approach to rotor clearance! Let us know how it works.

I just test flew my 10T-23awg-DLRK-Delta (3100Kv), and you can easily hear the difference between that and the old BW 10T-24awg-DLRK-Delta. Here's the video comparison:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...5#post14091785

The new motor absolutely rocks; makes it an even faster "supercheapplane"! As a bonus, there's a hard crash in the first video.

Cheers,
Kevin
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Old Jan 16, 2010, 11:42 PM
Dave North
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USA, CA, San Jose
Joined Apr 2004
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Fuego: I've tried that on a couple of motors and it always pushed the stator out past the mags; hurt the effy a little but not horrid.

Kev, that does have a nice wicked sound to it. I think you're just about at the max load where decent efficiency lives, but tellya what: I sure enjoyed my 10T/23g Delta. Usually I ran it 5030 or 4540, but sometimes I just had to pop on the 5043 and watch it disappear. Alas, the prop can't handle 3S, as you probably discovered at some point.


Dave
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Old Jan 17, 2010, 02:19 AM
Fly me to the moon...
Atom1025's Avatar
Sacramento
Joined Jun 2005
4,140 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuegodeth View Post
Well, I have rewound that motor for my friend again, but I ended up doing 7t of 22g. it packs the stator pretty full. it runs up fine, but haven't had a chance to do much else with it so far. According to the chart it should be close to 2500KV hopefully. I deburred the bell as best I could and no sparks this time. I'll post pics when I can.
I run a 7t 23g on my 30" wing. Really nice balance of thrust to speed. I like the carbon zagi on that one.

Man you all are crazy, I struggled with an 11t 24g. Felt like I spent an hour per tooth. I have no idea how you can get 12T on a DLRK, just mind blowing. Then again finding that magic stator is the ticket.
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Old Jan 17, 2010, 02:55 AM
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Truglodite's Avatar
Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timocharis View Post
Alas, the prop can't handle 3S, as you probably discovered at some point.


Dave
3s with a 3100Kv rednblue? That almost sounds dangerous. What's a good starter prop?

Kev
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Old Jan 17, 2010, 03:44 AM
five by five
sonicj's Avatar
Panama City Bch, FL
Joined Jan 2009
2,074 Posts
so whats the secret to squeezing 10 turns of 23 in one of these? i just finished 10t of 24 dlrk and it was quite the task. (for me at least)

are the blue & red stators different than the silver / blue & silver? does the delta variant make it any easier? cheers!
-sj
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Old Jan 17, 2010, 08:37 AM
Go ahead... Build it to crash!
Fuegodeth's Avatar
Conroe, TX
Joined Apr 2007
2,630 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by timocharis View Post
Fuego: I've tried that on a couple of motors and it always pushed the stator out past the mags; hurt the effy a little but not horrid.

Kev, that does have a nice wicked sound to it. I think you're just about at the max load where decent efficiency lives, but tellya what: I sure enjoyed my 10T/23g Delta. Usually I ran it 5030 or 4540, but sometimes I just had to pop on the 5043 and watch it disappear. Alas, the prop can't handle 3S, as you probably discovered at some point.


Dave
Yeah, efficiency was the only worry with doing that. However, there is a little front to back play in these motors, and in pusher config it seems to seat the bell almost back to the original position vs when there is tension pulling the bell out. Too bad I can't compare efficiency before and after that. I think the sparks would reduce efficiency more.

12t of 24g delta was and the 12 of 24 ABC were both very hard to do. I spent at least 3 hours on each one. My hands are in a bit of agony today. I think I didn't really feel it yesterday and now it has set in big time. Basically I kept it as neat as I could to start with and then used a GWS HD prop to get as much clearance as I could. I also threaded the last couple turns on each tooth and didn't worry about overlap on the backside as long as it laid down nice on the front and wasn't bulging out to the magnets. I also snapped wires on 3 different occasions, so I was tugging pretty hard on it. The 7t of 22g was actually an easier wind to do. 5t on the first layer and then 2 on the 2nd. Basically 1 tooth got those 2 turns to the outside and the adjacent ones got those turns on the inside. It seemed there was always just the right gap to get that last half turn through so it worked out nicely. Of course I did have to do the little clearance mod. However, I probably wouldn't have to in a tractor, as it didn't rub when spinning by hand, only when you pushed on it and turned would there be any interference. Anyway, I think my fingers need to heal a bit before I try any more.
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