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Old Jan 06, 2010, 04:48 PM
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Fish

No need to apologise my answer was not very good

There is no such thing as an Ex US army magnet checker ,!!!!!!!!!

but there is an Army Crystal frequency checker as my father in law had one to make his own crystals

I will tell you how I checked my magnets forthwith
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Old Jan 06, 2010, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Fishjunky View Post
How did you check your magnets?
The magnets in these motors have a radius on the side that gets glued to the flux ring, and are flat on the side that faces the stator. So you could actually see a "flipped" magnet without having to test for it.

Cool you got it fixed NX, and thanks for sharing your story. Now we know the acetone bath trick works on BnRW's. I had "glitches" with an old blue arrow RX not long ago. Turned out it was caused by a loose x-tal fit (so not really a glitch technically). The problems went away after taping the x-tal down with Blenderm, tweaked to one side a bit. Wouldn't 2.4 be nice?

Kev
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Old Jan 06, 2010, 08:22 PM
Dave North
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Wouldn't 2.4 be nice?
Went there last year and I ain't looking back. On the other hand, if I weren't starting to get too many freq bumps from noobs, I'd still be on 72MHz.


Dave
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Old Jan 06, 2010, 08:27 PM
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Kev

well , thats what I was going to say,,,,, that the magnets have a radius on one

side and a flat on the other , but I didnt think that anyone would believe it

because the radius is so small its hard to notice

Yes a nice Assan 2.4 would be nice , the 6Ch Rx with the tiny aerial
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Old Jan 06, 2010, 09:42 PM
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I decided a while back that when I go two four, I'm getting a Spektrum module for my ole' reliable 9c. I need & prefer the no BS programming, my thumbs have grown around it, and the 9303 is outside my budget for now.

I have a buddy that just bought one of those HK Trex450 clones (his first "real" heli), and he wants to get the Airwolf body with retracts. Ambitious, I know, but when he does he'll have to buy a 7ch rx for his dx7. We agreed when he does, I'll give him $10 to get the combo with the 8ch module for my 9c. Seems like an awesome deal, but I still need a 7ch rx for my Spirit. So the only thing I would gain is flexibility in what aircraft to upgrade first. Plus it is a heli; most guys give up on 'em after the first few "landings".

Know what would be really cool? A "Help a guy go 2.4" sticky thread, where users who need to buy a 7 or 9ch 2.4 rx get together with 72 guys and work out a deal so everyone's happy. I'm not the best candidate to start it, but I'm sure there's plenty of people who would love to see it.

Kev
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Old Jan 10, 2010, 09:05 AM
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I know this would probably be better posted in another thread since this thread is on the blue and red wonder motors. But, I have a Hextronik that was rated at 1800kv by the store I bought it from, I want to rewind and have 4 awg's available at the moment 22, 24, 26 and 30. Which wire aand what wind would be best into get this motor to 1800 - 2000 kv range?
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Old Jan 10, 2010, 10:44 AM
Dave North
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Without knowing the model number, nobody can even guess. And even knowing that, we'd still have to know what's on there right now (wire gauge and turns).

Dave
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Old Jan 10, 2010, 07:20 PM
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Thank youTim. I don't know the model, here is a link to the web page it is the top one. Actually it is 1700kv rated. http://karglusa.com/motors.aspx
I stripped the wire out of one, but didn't count the turns, will strip the other then post how many turns and ga, it looks like its ssmaller than the spool of 24 I have here.
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Old Jan 10, 2010, 07:28 PM
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That's a 10turn 26awg Y... a crappy stock wind IMO. You can get 15+oz easy with the same power just by replacing the stock winds with 24awg (10T-y).

Kev
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Old Jan 10, 2010, 08:24 PM
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Right as rain. But note, j4, there's no need to wind it the way they do stock -- trying to get those terminator ends through the weird half-moon slot in the stator. Just wind it like a normal motor. Ten turns of 24 is a pretty easy wind, so it should be a win on the first try.


Dave
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Old Jan 10, 2010, 08:50 PM
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I'll try that , is that the wind on the distriuted lrk thread you did Dave?
One nice thing about you guys both saying that is the wind I should go with is the spool of 24ga I have is a 400ft spool so should have plenty of wire if I mess up a time or two.
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Old Jan 10, 2010, 09:02 PM
Dave North
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That motor is ABC, not dLRK. Easier wind, which is good. The basic tips are covered here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=447174&page=8

... though it's a different motor, so some of the specific information is wrong. Still, it should give you enough to work with (along with gobrushless tutorials etc...)


Dave
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Old Jan 11, 2010, 12:26 AM
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[QUOTE=NX-687;14000949]well , thats what I was going to say,,,,, that the magnets have a radius on one

side and a flat on the other , but I didnt think that anyone would believe it

because the radius is so small its hard to notice



Kev is ok.

Manuel V.
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Old Jan 11, 2010, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by timocharis View Post
That motor is ABC, not dLRK. Easier wind, which is good. The basic tips are covered here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=447174&page=8

... though it's a different motor, so some of the specific information is wrong. Still, it should give you enough to work with (along with gobrushless tutorials etc...)


Dave
Thats a 9 tooth stator though isn't it Dave? Do I just wind the extra tooth on my motor as the others and have 4 teeth in each phase?
Got that answer, It is actually a 14 wind motor I just stripped out the fist phase of the second motor and it is wound ABC just like you said 4 stator teeth in each phase, So, I'll continue like I have started. Just using the 10 wind 24 ga and seee wht I get.
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Old Jan 11, 2010, 11:32 AM
Dave North
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It is actually a 14 wind motor
Oh right! And they do the transit backward, so it's actually more like 13-1/2 turns* (or a bit less).

That's a 3S wind for the 8040. Don't copy that silly transit technique -- I have no idea who started that, but what a maroon...


Dave

* No, this is not because it does not "close the loop." It's because it creates a half-turn that's actually proximal to the wrong tooth. If you don't "get" this, try doing it yourself and look at what the initial and final half turns do. This actually works against the desired direction of rotation half the time, which also (of course) reduces efficiency.
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