Actually, it did not fit...

I always insert a 3mm polished shaft from a CD drive, fill the rear cavity with filler and CA glue, and remove the shaft.
Then, I drill a 2.5mm hole across the center, and cut a M3 thread. Here I insert grub screws and use then to fasten the prop on a motor shaft.

It spins very true this way.

Originally Posted by lance dalton

My 3020 still hasn't arrived . I think it got put on the slow boat from China . What kv are you shooting for?

Something around 1700 roughly. Lower than stock if I want to run 2S, since it's obviously running too far past the efficiency point with the 8040 at Kv 1966. I might try a 10.5 wind (10/11) to get into the upper 1700s.

Though I can do 16 with thinner wire, I suspect 15 turns might give the better result (somewhere around 1250 Kv) to try 3S. I'm not sure I've got the right wire to do that.


Dave

Thanks Julez,
I was hoping that the DD fit. Looks like you worked it out. I might have come up with my own solution. I have a Komodo prop saver that came with a machined aluminum adapter for DD props. I tried it on a PS that fits the GWS SF prop and it was a perfect fit on the saver. Hope it works on the 3020.

Dave,
I'm looking for 3S. One of the reviews said the 3S stock motor was more like a 1300kv. I have a bunch of 30 awg so maybe a 15T of that to see where it's at. I'll do my best to disassemble the motor and count the turns that the motor came with.
Can I get rpm with an optical rpm tach a piece of white tape on the bell?

Lance

Originally Posted by lance dalton

I have a bunch of 30 awg so maybe a 15T of that to see where it's at.

If I had some 30 I might do that for the same reason. I think it will be a pretty easy wind. So it would be a good test.

I'd be interested!

Can I get rpm with an optical rpm tach a piece of white tape on the bell?

I can't think of a reason why not. Give it a try! If that don't fly, you might try something on the flux-ring cover. Interesting thought.


Dave

Better wrap the white tape around the bell, and make 2 very broad lines with a black sharpie. Then shine a flashlight to it.
I've had it work this way, although with a silver bell, and without the white tape.

Originally Posted by lance dalton

Can I get rpm with an optical rpm tach a piece of white tape on the bell?

Lance

I use an Avery label and a black Sharpie... and a high intensity Magnalite [without the prop on of course!!!!]. Point the flashlight at it from the side, and the Optical tach (aligned with the flashlight) reads it as a 2-blade prop.

Thanks, I thought it would work.

Wound another 12T 24AWG ABC Wye tonight. No shorts!!! I wound it under artificial light with new $.99 store glasses . Figured it was good pratice before my first dLRK wind.
I want to do a Dremel test. Do I pigtail terminate the motor or not before the test?

Lance

In star it does not matter, pigtail or not. Delta without pigtail will give voltages of each phase. No pigtail to delta, voltages should be the same. If not, you have a big parasetic recirculating current in the (closed) delta circuit.

Prettig weekend Ron

Thanks Ron,
After reading your links it seems I need a AC voltmeter. I only have a DC. If the motor becomes a generator wouldn't it be generating DC power?

Lance

A brushed motor would generate a (not-constant) DC voltage, a brushless motor generates 3-phase AC. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three-phase

Vriendelijke groeten Ron

Thanks again Ron. Maybe I can borrow a AC meter.

Received the Turnigy 3020 1200kv today. Same mag count of 22 and 24.2 grams AUW. Motor tag reads 11.1 Volts 13770 rpm = 1240kv. Windings look good and I estimate about 15T of some thin wire. Might be a 1/2 turn varient. I want to run it up to see what I get.
The Komodos GWS DD prop adapter ring fits perfect on the motors GWS SF hub.
Man, that's A LOT of stator heads

Lance

Originally Posted by lance dalton

Thanks again Ron. Maybe I can borrow a AC meter.

Received the Turnigy 3020 1200kv today. Same mag count of 22 and 24.2 grams AUW. Motor tag reads 11.1 Volts 13770 rpm = 1240kv. Windings look good and I estimate about 15T of some thin wire. Might be a 1/2 turn varient. I want to run it up to see what I get.
The Komodos GWS DD prop adapter ring fits perfect on the motors GWS SF hub.
Man, that's A LOT of stator heads

Lance

Lance, you should stop by Harbor Freight and treat yourself to a DMM:

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=multimeter&Submit=Go

That $4 Cen-Tech is good enough for a dremel/drill test, but the $10 one can do 10A current in case you ever needed it. There are several Harbor Freight stores in the LA area. A multimeter is one of the most valuable tools to have in your toolbox, especially once you learn how to use it... it's a must have.

Cheers,
Kev

3$ diy Wattmeter
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=949923

Prettig weekend Ron

Thanks Kev, I'll get one. I think a friend made an amp meter with the same meter. Really simple and "cheap" (my favorite word ).

Ramped the 12T 24AWG (#2) and it runs Sweet!!! One click and it ramps without a hiccup. Mounted it in the plane for this weekend to see how it compares. Throttle response is right where I like it...Crisp and Zippy. Can't wait to try it out.

Here's pics of the Komodo adapter for GWS DD props. Fits the DD's perfect.

Julez, I think I understand how you mount a DD prop. My thought is how did you use the modified DD prop on the 3020? Did extend the 3020's 3mm motor shaft?

Lance

Yes.
remove the grub screws first.
Drill a 10mm hole in a block of aluminium, or through steel not thinner than 5mm. Camfer the edge well.
You will see, that center of the bell will fit in quite snugly, as does the bell of the blue/silver wonder.
Carefully, but with force, drive the shaft out with a hammer. The last part needs to be done with a drift punch.
I took a 3mm slider rod from a CD drive, which I sanded to 2,9mm in the end, so that it does not get stuck in return after the shaft is driven out.

These rods are ecellently suited as shafts themselves, I never use anything different.

Well, after the shaft is removed, you will notice thet the fitting of the bell is to tight to accept a 3mm shaft without considerable force.

Make a reamer from a 3mm CD drive slider shaft: Grind the front side in a way that it resembles a half sphere. Then, at 5mm length, grind away the top half of the shaft.

Use this reamer and a drill press to bring the hole of the bell to the right diameter.

Now you can slide in a longer 3mm shaft without problems, and fix it with the grub screw.