Hi all,

I have the Hyperion ZS3020-10 in my Apprentice. It's long overdue to be oiled. But, how do you oil that motor (the bearings, I assume)?

Mine is back-mounted, so I have the backmount kit, and when I take the front piece off, there is just the front of the motor, with the shaft firmly attached to the front. No bearing there, that I can see. At the rear, there is a stop collar around the shaft. There is a slight gap between that collar and the back of the motor. Is the bearing back there? Is there one bearing, or two? If there is a front bearing, how do I oil it?

http://innov8tivedesigns.com/rcgroups/MotorOil00001.jpg

http://innov8tivedesigns.com/rcgroups/MotorOil00002.jpg

Thanks Dylwad, but my motor doesn't look like that, much.

The front, especially, if there's a bearing in there someplace, I can't see it, or anywhere near it.

There are two bearings, one inside the bell end of the stator, and the other where the shaft comes out of the mounting plate. So, if you flood the little gap between the stator and the bell (through one of the cooling holes), you will probably get some in the bell-end bearing, and at the other end flood the gap under the shaft collar. Or, you could take the collar off, disassemble the motor by pulling the bell off, and just oil them directly... but be very careful putting it back together, the bell will snap on and bite fingers, and if that collar slips on the shaft, the whole bell will part company with the airplane, so make sure it's secure.

99% of all outrunner motors look like that Only differences are in shaft protrusions and cooling hole placement, the bearings will always be in the same place.

On a side note, I wasnt aware that the Hyperion motor bearings ever needed to be oiled. I thought they used superior bearings to what Scorpions use, and even Scorpions now say they use permanently lubricated bearings.

Thanks guys. I'm pretty sure I read in this thread at some point that the Hyperion motors should be oiled periodically. It seems like that front area is going to have lots of oil in it, and I hope some actually gets to the bearing. :-)

Thanks again.

From post 202 by Dave:

No. Like the most recent Scorpion HK and S2 series motors, the ZS are using very good Japanese high speed bearings. I haven't seen any trouble with any of these, nor expect it. Note that the need for bearing lubrication scales with rpm, so for the Hs heli motors it is a good idea to oil the bearings every 50 flights or so if you want the motor to last some years, and it certainly doesn't hurt to oil the bearings in any motor from time to time.

And post 343:

I don't speak for Scorpion, but assume that the 6-flight recommendation was from 18 months back, or more, before they began using their current brand of Japanese high-speed bearings. Hyperion Zs, Hs, and coming Gs all use the same JP bearings.

For Hyperion motors, we recommend as maximum service interval:

Zs22, Zs30, Gs22, Gs30 - Oil every 70~100 flights
Zs40, Gs3032 - Oil rear (roller) bearing every 40~50 flights, others every 100

Hs motors - Oil every 40~50 flights

And it certainly doesn't hurt to give the bearings a drop of oil more often, expecially for setups where they are easy to reach...

You'd have to check with Scorpion reps directly on their oiling intervals per their various motor types.

However, if it is good permanent lubricated bearings then the seal on these bearings should be good as well, that will keep the bearing grease inside the bearing. How will the oil get inside that good quality sealed bearing? – Dave?

Also, I don't know about Hyperion, but the Scorpion 3026 have two bearings at the front end. Say that the seal is after all not that good and the oil can reach the inside of the bearing, if you don't take the motor apart, how will the oil get to the inner bearing? – Dave?

I also have a cheap motor with not so good bearings. It was running OK and the grease stayed inside the bearing, but when I oiled those bearings, the oil actually washed out the grease and it had to be oiled every few flights after that first oil.

I have some Axi motors running for more than 6 years on a regular base now and I never oiled its bearings. Up to now the bearings is still doing good.

Oil has a lower viscosity and surface tension than grease and therefore will get through a smaller gap. Whether or not that's a good idea is another matter.

I have a couple of heli motors with hundreds of flights on them, and no bearing issues without any lubrication. As soon as the bearings start to get a bit noisy, start lubricating them, but be aware that the end is in sight and you should be starting to source replacements... or at least that's my experience with heli mainshaft bearings, which while they turn a lot slower, are under vastly more load.

Well, here's an odd question: With the Hyperion back-mount kit, there is a three-screw fixture that goes onto the motor, (onto what was the back) and it has a threaded (partially) shaft on to which you mount the prop. So, when I try to tighten the nut down to fix the prop, the whole motor turns. Can't get the prop nut tight, because the motor turns.

Any body have a method, or tool, or something that holds the motor still, while tightening down the prop nut? I have about a 3 mm gap between the front of the cowl, and the back of the spinner backplate, into which I could slip a real thin open end wrench, or something.

Originally Posted by tlr-boise

Well, here's an odd question: With the Hyperion back-mount kit, there is a three-screw fixture that goes onto the motor, (onto what was the back) and it has a threaded (partially) shaft on to which you mount the prop. So, when I try to tighten the nut down to fix the prop, the whole motor turns. Can't get the prop nut tight, because the motor turns.

Any body have a method, or tool, or something that holds the motor still, while tightening down the prop nut? I have about a 3 mm gap between the front of the cowl, and the back of the spinner backplate, into which I could slip a real thin open end wrench, or something.

I've had the same problem on occasion. On one model I can get my finger into the cowl enough to hold the can until it bites enough to hold the prop ad tighten it. On another model with these motors I have to remove the battery hatch and get a finger in there to hold the motor can.

Best solution I've found for me is to hold the can (if possible) until I can get enough pressure on the prop to keep it from turning while I tighten it.

It hasn't been a big deal but, it is a PITA sometimes.

I've always wondered why they included standard screw heads (straight slot) for the three screws that attach the back-mount adapter. Sure would be nice if they were phillips or socket head screws.

First thing I do is pull the cowl back. Then use needle nose pliars to hold the adaptor. Couple weeks ago I made a spanner wrench that works great. Good luck!

I have a prop adaptor that fits on a 3.17mm shaft with flat sides to accept a 13mm spanner. How many times have I whished I had more of those, especially in bigger sizes?

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/prop_shaf...t_507_prd1.htm

Thanks, now I know where to get. Would be nice to get it in 6mm size as well.

Hi David,

Can you confirm the GS3032 motors are in stock please? Also, when will the GS3025/6 be available?

Thanks,
Al