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Old Sep 30, 2009, 01:11 AM
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Off topic, but very cool

Im assuming similar construction to the hyperion warbirds? fibreglass fuselages and built up wings? and suitably scaled up mechanical retracts?

Hyperion seem to be on a serious roll with releasing awesome new stuff.

Next thing you'll say is that hyperion are releasing competively priced composite pylon racers to compete with the european brands
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Old Oct 03, 2009, 11:09 PM
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Bearing Replacement 'Z' series.

Dave or anyone that has the knowledge:
How does one replace the "Bell Support" bearing (the very large diameter one) in the old Z series motor. basically how do I get the wire wound stator off the central hub to get access to said bearing. The stator appears to be an interference fit and glued to the central hub? Has anyone successfully replaced one of these without sending back to the factory or destroying the motor in the process?

All help appreciated. thanks
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Old Oct 05, 2009, 12:05 AM
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I am starting to really look into a new motor for my TRex 600. I am using the stock original motor (600L) and the helical cut gears. The Align pinions only come in 6mm shaft sizes and the Hyperion HS4025 only has 5mm shafts. I noticed that Scorpion offers 6mm shafts for their 4025 motors, any chance they will work or will Hyperion be offering the 6mm shaft in the future?

Thanks,
Mike
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Old Oct 05, 2009, 02:07 PM
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OK, I'm way interested in this Hyperion ZS motor line. My question is: do the prop shafts come out easily if they need to be replaced? After two issues with bent prop shafts from Scorpion motors (3014 series) I'm sick of trying to get these things out. On top of that, they bend too easily in the first place. so, if they're going to bend, I at least want to be able to replace them easily. Tell me they just slip right out and I'll buy one today!
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Old Oct 05, 2009, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smash McCrash
I didn't realize the HS series was out. Now I have replacements for the heli motors when I finally fry them. Been trying for a while, but they are still holding on!

Mike
Not out yet, still showing out of stock at aircraft-world:

http://aircraft-world.com/shopexd.asp?id=6795

And no response to the questions in this thread as to when they will be in or whether these differ in any way from the Scorpion series. I was waiting on them for a few weeks, but then picked up a good deal on a MA X-Cell branded motor of identical pedigree, but in black.

- David
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Old Oct 05, 2009, 06:47 PM
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They've been in stock and available at www.allerc.com for weeks now.
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Old Oct 05, 2009, 08:09 PM
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Tick Tock,

It is not possible to build a precision motor that has the shaft "Just Slip Out" for changing it. In order to maintain the tight tolerances between the magnets and stator, the shaft has to be a press fit to maintain alignment.

Scorpion could make the shafts harder, but then the entire front housing of the motor would get bent in a crash and the motor would be ruined, so there would be no sense in having it be replaceable. The shafts are designed to be "sacrificial" so they absorb the impact of a crash. Then you just have to replace a $5.00 shaft and you can run the motor again instead of having to replace the entire motor.

Lucien Miller

Innov8tive Designs
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Old Oct 05, 2009, 08:48 PM
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Thanks Lucien for the reply.

I understand the sacrificial concept, and i respect and appreciate it, however, i would prefer that they be sacrificial AND easily changeable - without having to buy a 1 ton arbor press or drill press. This is why I am specifically asking if Hyperion, which seem to be similar motors, have shafts that do indeed slip out without special equipment. The shafts in Scorpion motors are to hard to change out - believe me I've tried and failed. Please understand - the performance of Scorpion motors is awesome - love the motors. But after problems with shafts on two different 30 series motors (not SII) I'm fed up. The last one never even nosed over, never mind crash. I've tried doing it with a vice and wooden supporting block to protect bell housing and get nothing but a headache, and need to buy a new motor.

Again, if the shaft is going to bend that easily, it should be more eaily repairable.

BUT my question is still about Hyperion. I love Scorpion motors (I've had three) but the shaft is a deal breaker. Especially with the change in price for the SII series - it makes them very close to other top brands. To have an easily replaceable shaft, I'd pay an extra twelve bucks.

If the prop shaft were easily replaceable by me, and did not require sending it away for repair, I would most certainly stick with Scorpion.

If someone knows of an easy, relatively inexpensive and quick way to change these Scorpion shafts, please let me know. I do NOT at all mean to put down Scorpion motors, I'm just looking for worthy alternatives.

Thanks
Dino
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Old Oct 05, 2009, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Innov8tive
Tick Tock,

It is not possible to build a precision motor that has the shaft "Just Slip Out" for changing it. In order to maintain the tight tolerances between the magnets and stator, the shaft has to be a press fit to maintain alignment.

Scorpion could make the shafts harder, but then the entire front housing of the motor would get bent in a crash and the motor would be ruined, so there would be no sense in having it be replaceable. The shafts are designed to be "sacrificial" so they absorb the impact of a crash. Then you just have to replace a $5.00 shaft and you can run the motor again instead of having to replace the entire motor.

Lucien Miller


Innov8tive Designs
So what's the best way to replace a shaft without damaging the motor?
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Old Oct 05, 2009, 09:21 PM
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LOL - in a few words, Buzzkill, you say more than I can say in a bunch of paragraphs! Well put. And I second this question.
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Old Oct 05, 2009, 10:28 PM
c/f
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Hyperion motor shafts are an extremely tight fit and you need to pressthem out.

I would suggest however that you buy a nice drill vise from Harbor Freight it doubles as a vise and a press, works for me.

As for the bearing in the back, I did make a split collar to grip the 30mm stator and was able to remove it but its tough, I cut the rear housing slot band to allow wires to pass versus getting it to slide through slot without damage.

There is also a small pin that slide in to key it to the center support.

I have aprox 10 hours flight time on a Hz 3020 8 at 2100watts and 20K+ rpms and have had no issues with bearings or lubrication, looks like I may be getting near the 50 flights PM pitstop...........
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Old Oct 05, 2009, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c/f
Hyperion motor shafts are an extremely tight fit and you need to pressthem out.

I would suggest however that you buy a nice drill vise from Harbor Freight it doubles as a vise and a press, works for me.

As for the bearing in the back, I did make a split collar to grip the 30mm stator and was able to remove it but its tough, I cut the rear housing slot band to allow wires to pass versus getting it to slide through slot without damage.

There is also a small pin that slide in to key it to the center support.

I have aprox 10 hours flight time on a Hz 3020 8 at 2100watts and 20K+ rpms and have had no issues with bearings or lubrication, looks like I may be getting near the 50 flights PM pitstop...........
I have 7 of the new motors now, both the Hs and Zs. Absolutely the best motors I personally have ever used. Love them. Two more to go and all my models will have the Hyperion motors in them.
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Old Oct 05, 2009, 11:36 PM
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c/f Thx for the input. Is it this? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=30999 But aren't you left with a little bit still stuck in the housing. Do you tap it out with a nail? I don't believe that Scorpion covers this process in enough depth - and Hyperion not at all. I've read, I believe all the threads regarding this issue. Does anyone know of a link that explains this more thoughly?

Dino
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Old Oct 05, 2009, 11:53 PM
c/f
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More like this, http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=544

You need a little taller jaw. mine is closer to this machinist one with a tilt and aprox same width.

You end up using various cut to lenght pieces of tubing to support or copper bits from plumbing section, I use a metric allen head bolt to get last bit pressed out.

Very important to support bell on inside or else it will distort.

Buzz,

I too find the new Z/s Hyperion lineup awesome, they have the best watts to weight ratings of any motor line up, with a fair market value, with german engineering in my mind.
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Old Oct 06, 2009, 12:52 AM
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Just removed the shaft from a ZS3008-20 and as with every other out runner I've disassembled, the shaft is an interference fit. (read tight fit) I use a large bench vise, a thick block of hardwood with several holes of different diameter drilled though. I also cut up a 6" nail (mild steel) to use as a drift to squeeze the last bit of the shaft out of the bell.

Interesting to note the ZS shaft only had a single milled flat in the end, but two grub screws? I find this odd as I'm about to send a scorpion motor back to the factory as the two threads for the grub screws have become stripped in the bell. I take responsibility for that, as I reversed the shaft, but didn't file two new flats into the shaft, on close inspection after the fact, it seemed that without the flats the grub screw were only biting against a portion of the threaded holes in the bell and striped.
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