Connector tutorial?

carlsoti · Mar 23, 2009, 06:59 PM

I tried looking around, but I couldn't find one definitive source. Could somebody put together a conncector tutorial with good, close-up pictures and the names of all the different types, and what each type is suitable, or typically used for? (I know what SOME of them are, deans and bullet, for example, but there's a lot of different types of lipo balance plugs, and I have NO idea what the names of any of those are. I thought a tutorial might be good for the beginners section.) Also, there's a bunch of "newer" radios that have different types of connectors for the RXs.

NoFlyZone · Mar 23, 2009, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carlsoti

Could somebody put together a conncector tutorial with good, close-up pictures and the names of all the different types, and what each type is suitable, or typically used for?

Hi Carl,

Putting together good tutorials takes quite a bit of time, and dedication, and love of the hobby. Maybe this can be something you might want to do, and then contribitute it to RC Groups. I'm positive it will be useful to many beginners. And it'll give you a good feeling inside to know you helped other people.

I say go for it!

Chuck

woodsy · Mar 23, 2009, 08:53 PM

Well here's a start.

this is a Deans clone, the clones are also refered to as T conectors.
Some of the clones are crap and tend to be hard to get apart, the ones in the pic are great as they have the ribs to help you grip them.

These are Micro deans or if clones Micro T conectors, so far i have never had a problem with any of clones.

This is a 2 pin (male) JST generally just a JST mostly used on low power brushed set ups and some OEM (GWS is one) motors, ESC's, etc.

This is a Gold, gold bullet, gold spring conector the ones we use in RC are generaly Gold and the ones used in Automotive are a silvery colour.
the gold ones have a better current rating for there diameter.
Various lengths and diameters are available
solder on 3.5mm

Crimp on 2.5mm

This is an Alligator

This is an Aligator clip, if you put one on your nose you will know how they got the name. they come in various sizes and various plastic colour coatings.

This is a Banana

this is a Banana plug, the diference is the one above is full of vatamins and good stuff the one bellow will break your teeth if you bite it. generaly in RC you will find them on chargers.

Xpress.. · Mar 23, 2009, 09:39 PM

^LOL

That made my day.

Shpook · Mar 23, 2009, 10:30 PM

LOL that was great...didn't expect that as I scrolled down...

rcpilot214 · Mar 23, 2009, 10:32 PM

I use ec3 for all my batteries. You can also use them for various electronic's that require connectors. I found they are good quality and stay together really nicely, though they are sometimes a little tough to pull apart.
To put them on you simply solder the banana plugs onto the correct wires, and pop them into the blue ec3 connector in their correct spots.

_OZ_ · Mar 23, 2009, 11:06 PM

I've used all the connectors above. For small, low power aircraft I like the JSTs.

For larger aircraft I really like Anderson Power Poles. I used Deans for a while and didn't like soldering and I didn't like how difficult they could be to pull apart. Power Poles positively click together but are easy to pull apart. They do not require soldering, although you can do that if you like. For R/C modeling purposes there are 3 ratings/sizes which are 15, 30 & 45 amp contacts that all use the same housing. Therefore, they all plug into each other. The only difference between the 15, 30 & 45 amp contacts is the size of the receiving barrel that holds the wire and the 45 amp is a beefier contact.

This is the best price I have found for Powerpoles are from Powerwerx
http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-po...b-series-sets/

For the best results at the least cost use the PowerWerx TRIcrimp
http://www.powerwerx.com/product.asp?ProdID=3324&CtgID
I don't recommend the $12 pliar type crimper. The results are inconsistent and will not work on the 45amp connector. I know this because I tried to get by with it for a few months.

If you are going to convert please use the diagram below as the standard.
Viewing from the contact side (opposite the wire side), tongue down, hood up, RED on the LEFT, BLACK on the RIGHT. Use a 3/32-inch-diameter roll pin, 1/4 inch long, or a drop of super-glue, to keep the housings from sliding apart. (My PPs were tight and didn't slide apart so I haven't used the pin or the super glue. Plus I like the option of being able to slide them apart)

Here is a must read article about Power Poles .

If you are switching your batteries from other connectors to PP, cut off the connector one wire at a time, and leave around an inch of wire. That way you can use the old connector ends to make PP adapters so you can still share batteries with your buds and use their charging equipment too.

Soldered Vs. Crimped
I'll tell you this about crimp vs solder contacts. I worked in the aircraft industry for over 19 years. 12 of that was direct hands on repair over avionics systems. During that time I was a wiring specialist and I am certified by the USAF, Northrop Grumman and Boeing in all kinds of wiring repair and fabrication. Crimping on contacts is the preferred method because, with the proper tools, it is easily taught, consistently reproducible, environmentally seals wire and does not damaged the wire, contact or insulation. I guarantee you that anyone can strip, crimp and insert and complete set of power poles before a soldering iron is warm enough to use. This is also an advantage in the field when you need to install a new connector. With soldering you can't always be sure how well it will hold up. Many people think they solder well. Too many times I see cold solder joints, melted shielding, improper wire preparation and over heated wire. All of which leads to corrosion and joint failure.

carlsoti · Mar 24, 2009, 01:08 PM

.

_OZ_ · Mar 24, 2009, 07:21 PM

please delete

woodsy · Mar 24, 2009, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crosborne

I don't get it.

A roach clip was used for holding a joint (the smoking type) so you didn't burn your fingers when it got realy short.

NoFlyZone · Mar 24, 2009, 09:09 PM

...

carlsoti · Mar 24, 2009, 09:12 PM

.

_OZ_ · Mar 24, 2009, 10:12 PM

please delete

NoFlyZone · Mar 24, 2009, 10:19 PM

...

andersot · Mar 25, 2009, 12:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoFlyZone

Mea culpa, mea culpa, mea maxima culpa

Oh Well Chuck I enjoyed your very clear explanation and think it was very on topic as some folks don't know about "roach clips" and such.

As for connectors just ask about the specific one you are wanting to know about and some one will share their research and knowledge.

Have A Great Day
Terry

Mar 23, 2009, 06:59 PM	#1
carlsoti Tim, The Lift Killer. Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Chandler, AZ Posts: 1,300	Connector tutorial? I tried looking around, but I couldn't find one definitive source. Could somebody put together a conncector tutorial with good, close-up pictures and the names of all the different types, and what each type is suitable, or typically used for? (I know what SOME of them are, deans and bullet, for example, but there's a lot of different types of lipo balance plugs, and I have NO idea what the names of any of those are. I thought a tutorial might be good for the beginners section.) Also, there's a bunch of "newer" radios that have different types of connectors for the RXs.

Mar 23, 2009, 08:53 PM	#3
woodsy Woodsy Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Drouin, Australia Posts: 1,523	Well here's a start. this is a Deans clone, the clones are also refered to as T conectors. Some of the clones are crap and tend to be hard to get apart, the ones in the pic are great as they have the ribs to help you grip them. These are Micro deans or if clones Micro T conectors, so far i have never had a problem with any of clones. This is a 2 pin (male) JST generally just a JST mostly used on low power brushed set ups and some OEM (GWS is one) motors, ESC's, etc. This is a Gold, gold bullet, gold spring conector the ones we use in RC are generaly Gold and the ones used in Automotive are a silvery colour. the gold ones have a better current rating for there diameter. Various lengths and diameters are available solder on 3.5mm Crimp on 2.5mm This is an Alligator This is an Aligator clip, if you put one on your nose you will know how they got the name. they come in various sizes and various plastic colour coatings. This is a Banana this is a Banana plug, the diference is the one above is full of vatamins and good stuff the one bellow will break your teeth if you bite it. generaly in RC you will find them on chargers. Last edited by woodsy; Mar 23, 2009 at 09:05 PM.

Mar 23, 2009, 10:32 PM	#6
rcpilot214 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 81	I use ec3 for all my batteries. You can also use them for various electronic's that require connectors. I found they are good quality and stay together really nicely, though they are sometimes a little tough to pull apart. To put them on you simply solder the banana plugs onto the correct wires, and pop them into the blue ec3 connector in their correct spots. Attached Thumbnails e-flite ec3 connector (female on left, male on right) 63.7 KB · Views: 70

Mar 23, 2009, 11:06 PM	#7
_OZ_ Proud to be an American!! Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Earth Posts: 794	I've used all the connectors above. For small, low power aircraft I like the JSTs. For larger aircraft I really like Anderson Power Poles. I used Deans for a while and didn't like soldering and I didn't like how difficult they could be to pull apart. Power Poles positively click together but are easy to pull apart. They do not require soldering, although you can do that if you like. For R/C modeling purposes there are 3 ratings/sizes which are 15, 30 & 45 amp contacts that all use the same housing. Therefore, they all plug into each other. The only difference between the 15, 30 & 45 amp contacts is the size of the receiving barrel that holds the wire and the 45 amp is a beefier contact. This is the best price I have found for Powerpoles are from Powerwerx http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-po...b-series-sets/ For the best results at the least cost use the PowerWerx TRIcrimp http://www.powerwerx.com/product.asp?ProdID=3324&CtgID I don't recommend the $12 pliar type crimper. The results are inconsistent and will not work on the 45amp connector. I know this because I tried to get by with it for a few months. If you are going to convert please use the diagram below as the standard. Viewing from the contact side (opposite the wire side), tongue down, hood up, RED on the LEFT, BLACK on the RIGHT. Use a 3/32-inch-diameter roll pin, 1/4 inch long, or a drop of super-glue, to keep the housings from sliding apart. (My PPs were tight and didn't slide apart so I haven't used the pin or the super glue. Plus I like the option of being able to slide them apart) Here is a must read article about Power Poles . If you are switching your batteries from other connectors to PP, cut off the connector one wire at a time, and leave around an inch of wire. That way you can use the old connector ends to make PP adapters so you can still share batteries with your buds and use their charging equipment too. Soldered Vs. Crimped I'll tell you this about crimp vs solder contacts. I worked in the aircraft industry for over 19 years. 12 of that was direct hands on repair over avionics systems. During that time I was a wiring specialist and I am certified by the USAF, Northrop Grumman and Boeing in all kinds of wiring repair and fabrication. Crimping on contacts is the preferred method because, with the proper tools, it is easily taught, consistently reproducible, environmentally seals wire and does not damaged the wire, contact or insulation. I guarantee you that anyone can strip, crimp and insert and complete set of power poles before a soldering iron is warm enough to use. This is also an advantage in the field when you need to install a new connector. With soldering you can't always be sure how well it will hold up. Many people think they solder well. Too many times I see cold solder joints, melted shielding, improper wire preparation and over heated wire. All of which leads to corrosion and joint failure. Attached Thumbnails 6.4 KB · Views: 50 9.3 KB · Views: 40 21.3 KB · Views: 32 Last edited by _OZ_; Mar 25, 2009 at 04:57 PM.

Mar 24, 2009, 01:08 PM	#8
carlsoti Tim, The Lift Killer. Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Chandler, AZ Posts: 1,300	. Last edited by carlsoti; Mar 25, 2009 at 10:06 AM. Reason: dumb joke=threadkiller

Mar 23, 2009, 09:39 PM	#4
Xpress.. Low and slow- how I roll Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Crest Mexifornia Posts: 13,177	^LOL That made my day.

Mar 23, 2009, 10:30 PM	#5
Shpook What's that button do? Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Hollywood, FL Posts: 1,034	LOL that was great...didn't expect that as I scrolled down...

Mar 24, 2009, 07:21 PM	#9
_OZ_ Proud to be an American!! Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Earth Posts: 794	please delete Last edited by _OZ_; Mar 25, 2009 at 04:54 PM. Reason: ...

Mar 24, 2009, 09:09 PM	#11
NoFlyZone Chuck Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Milford, Michigan Posts: 12,404	... Last edited by NoFlyZone; Mar 25, 2009 at 10:42 AM. Reason: Thread cleanup

Mar 24, 2009, 09:12 PM	#12
carlsoti Tim, The Lift Killer. Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Chandler, AZ Posts: 1,300	. Last edited by carlsoti; Mar 25, 2009 at 10:05 AM. Reason: lack of hilarity

Mar 24, 2009, 10:12 PM	#13
_OZ_ Proud to be an American!! Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Earth Posts: 794	please delete Last edited by _OZ_; Mar 25, 2009 at 04:54 PM.

Mar 24, 2009, 10:19 PM	#14
NoFlyZone Chuck Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Milford, Michigan Posts: 12,404	... Last edited by NoFlyZone; Mar 25, 2009 at 10:42 AM. Reason: Thread Cleanup