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Old Mar 21, 2009, 08:26 PM
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moreno valley california
Joined Jun 2008
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Give me more! Cermark 50" Edge 540 and Extra 260

I thought I would share my build and flight experiences with my two cermark "30e" airplanes, an extra 260 and edge 540. I have been flying cermark airplanes for many years, although these two were my first electrics. After building and flying the 260, I thought it would be fun to do a build thread for the edge. both have the same set-up - a 15-900 Neu motor and Thunderbird ESC, driven by a lipo 2100 3s, leftovers from my 450 helicopter. servos are Hitec 65s, and an HS 81 on the rudder. If you use the 81 use the mg, as the nylon gears don't do so well. I also used a Cermark collet, but will use eventually change to an E Flite spinner.

these little airplanes are perfect for anyone who wants to move up from a "foamie" and try something that looks like an airplane. for you bigger guys, these things are just the ticket when you need fast stick time with something that looks and flies like an airplane. these models look good and fly well...

Both airplanes build the same. The "builder", if I can use that term, should study the planes and parts carefully before assembly, as the instructions are written generically for all the cermark models, and some steps or pictures don't fit. for example, the extra does not come with phenolic servo arms, the edge does. packaging is well done. but there are small parts, so dump everything into a small container when you start.

the motor box is straightforward and mounting is idiot proof. I did have to run the local hardware store to get motor screws long enough to penetrate the firewall, and while i was there I picked up what I needed to replace the axles - just my prefence

A few tips:

1. Be very careful when threading the wing retainers into the wing blind nuts. the extra worked fine but on the edge i snapped the plastic bolt by overtightening. getting it out was out of the question (i tried) so I glued the wing rod into the wing, then glue the wing rod into the fuse. if you need to take the wing off this won't workl, otherwise, i found that i can get the airplane in and out of my backseat without taking off the wings.

2. Add some structure to the front end. the front ply former has been lightened extensively, so much so that it has little strength. add some balsa stiffeners, like 1/4 or 3/8 square stock, to the front top and sides of the former to put back some rigidity. the weight penalty is next to nothing. there's a thin balsa cross member that will crunch the first time you touch it, so it's best just to tear it out and forget about it.

3. Run some thick CA all around the notches for the motor mount to ensure that the glue joints are tight. on the edge I had to add a small piece of balsa to tie the bottom of the motor mount into the fuse.

4. When installing the hinges, I like to glue them into the moveable surface first, and the the fix surface. the reason is that I can move them a bit to properly position them before gluing.

5. When installing the horizontal stab, you MUST put the elevator joiner in first, otherwise, you will never get it in. I think that same point was made by another reviewer.

6. The wing retention pins might need a little wiggling at first, but once they are seated, they're good.

7. I cut the tailwheel wire to about half it length, making it easier to feed into the rudder. why the rudder doesn't have a hole in it is beyond me, because every other hole is cut..oh well, gotta complain about something! once it was cut, i round the end to make it easier to push into the rudder

8. When trying to find the control arm slots in the movable surfaces, look at the surface under a bright light. the slots are laser cut, but they can be a little tough to locate under the covering. gently press around the area and they will eventually reveal themselves. use a no. 11 to open them up, and thin CA to mount the horns.


9. The Edge and Extra share the same wing - sort of. Because the Edge has straight leading edge, the wing tube is farther forwrd, and while the taper is the same, the ant rotation pins kept me from trying both wings.
ailerons are oversized and work well for smooth or 3D.

10. Both airplane use magnets to retain the canopy. make sure you cut a slot in the rear bottom to allow flow of air, otherwise the canopy may blow off.

11. to keep the distance short and the pushrod from bending, orient the servo so that the arm is closer to the movable surface.

12. Next post: flying....
koppterX is offline Find More Posts by koppterX
Last edited by koppterX; Mar 22, 2009 at 06:51 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2009, 04:04 PM
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United States, FL, Brandon
Joined Dec 2007
45 Posts
What motor are you using, with what prop and are you having any cooling problems??

thanks ................... Dennis
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Old May 27, 2009, 02:48 PM
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Joined Apr 2004
667 Posts
I think he is using NEO-10 or NEO-15 electric motor.

Peace,
Steven Chao,
CERMARK
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Old May 27, 2009, 03:17 PM
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Joined Feb 2008
1,321 Posts
It is
"a 15-900 Neu motor"
so a 15 size motor.
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Old May 27, 2009, 05:17 PM
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Joined Apr 2004
667 Posts
Hmmm... I still think he is using NEO-10 or NEO-15. I could be wrong. Here is the site to Neodym motors that I was thinking, http://www.neodymmotors.com/. I don't think those are Steve Neu's Neu motors (www.neumotors.com), becuase there are hints of red color around the motor. Neu motors are usually all black.


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Steven Chao,
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