|Mar 30, 2009, 12:48 PM|
Really enjoyed your video and plane. AWESOME performance and a beautiful model.
I'm very intersted in how you set up your motors to provide differential steering. I would like to set up my PBY to function that way but I've been told I need a transmitter that can do three C-Mix capability.
Please explain just how you did yours,
I would greatly appreciate knowing what Transmitter model you use and how the mix is performed.
|Mar 30, 2009, 05:07 PM|
Joined Dec 2007
I have a ? about the UBEC, Align BEC, etc... you mentioned earlier.
I was planing on running a similar set up on my plane. Using the Castle ESC hooked up to the receiver on separate channels for differential steering, I was relying on the ESC w/ BEC to power the planes servos. So I was confused while reading your post why you have separate power? As i right this im wonder if you do this b/c your NOT using the Low Volt Cutoff so potentially running down your batts 100% would be bad...real bad. Is that it?
Thanks for your time
|Mar 30, 2009, 06:55 PM|
Rudderman and donjiskra
I’m using a JR 9303 2.4Ghz radio – makes it really easy as its designed with a twin engine feature in the setup. This is the setup in my radio.
Right CC Phoenix60 speed controller plugged into Throttle channel
Left CC Phoenix60 Speed controller plugged into AUX3 channel
Both red power/bec lines unplugged from the SC connector and heatshrink tubing isolated.
In the SYSTEM section:
set AUX2,AUX3 and AUX4 to INH to inhibit their function.
Under Wing TYPE menu:
..........In the TWIN E. section
..........Set Mate to AUX3 and Trim to ACT , I left the AUXT at INH
In the Model Function List:
Servro Reverse: RTHR and LTHR set to normal
Sub Trim: RTHR and LTHR set to 0
Travel Adjust: RTHR set to H100% & L100% and LTHR set to +100% & -100%
RUDDer > LTHR - set POS1 0%
set GER(gear switch) to POS1 in the switch menu at the bottom of the screen
RUDDer > RTHR -set POS1 +39%
Set GER(gear switch) to POS1 in the switch menu at the bottom of the screen
With this setup when you pull the gear switch toward the front of the transmitter the function is activated. When left rudder is commanded the right throttle is advanced and when right rudder, the left throttle is advanced
When I get out on the water, I advance the throttle trim to keep the motors turning when the throttle stick is at the low position.
Aileron > Rudder mix has no effect on the throttle mixi
|Mar 30, 2009, 09:12 PM|
Absolutely great video of a beautiful plane. Thanks for posting it.
Those yellow and red 215s are a very regular sight in these parts and are one of my favourite planes. I even have a limited edition print (called Bull's Eye) of a 215 making a drop on one my walls.
I'm very interested to see how these nitroplanes models fly and if the reports are even half favourable, I'll be ordering one for sure!
|Mar 30, 2009, 09:17 PM|
Even though I don't have a 9303, I do have a Multiplex Evo 12 and it is fully programmable. Just have to translate your inputs to mine.
|Mar 31, 2009, 07:01 AM|
Much appreciated on your differential thrust set-up.
I don't have a JR9303, just a JRXP642 and a recent AirtronicsRDS8000,
neither have such programmability. Too bad :-(
BTW:I sure enjoy your postings, many thanks for keeping us updated.
|Apr 02, 2009, 07:19 PM|
Water in wing tip pontoons
Great Idea filling the wing tip pontoons with foam. After flying this past weekend, I turned my wing over and about 2 tablespoons of water ran out.
|Apr 03, 2009, 11:55 AM|
A word of caution when using the expanding foam. Only use a SMALL amount at first in the bottom of the floats- and let it dry overnight. What happened to mine, is the open part (top) of the tip float dried first, and this stuff has more pressure than I thought while drying!! The inside then began to expand, and caused one float to distort and made it blow out and warp the fiberglass. i was able to carve out some foam and mostly press the float back into shape. I still have a buuble in the glass where it was weak and the foam pushed it out..so be careful, use just a quick burst of the foam in each corner of the bottom, let it dry overnight, then add a little more, then again the next day. Don't try to fill it all at once.
Also, I will be using some clear silicone sealant (from auto parts store) to seal the float to the wing.
|Apr 03, 2009, 12:05 PM|
Plus, if you have an ESC failure you will lose control. Add to that the fact we are flying off of water !!
A separate battery for the servos is good insurance. If you have an ESC failure, because of water damage, overheating, defective motor, etc, or even a bad wiring connection to your battery, or a solder tab on your lipo that cracks- you lose the plane.
You can of course just run a standard NIMH or NICD flight pack and switch, but I prefer Lithium batteries..and the ALign setup is inexpensive and comes with a built in voltmeter, plus the built in "soft-switch" which has minimum voltage traveling through it.
You can also run a separate BEC of the flight batteries to power your servos, but on a plane this big and heavy, plus the water factor, I think the completely separate flight battery is best, and it's not expensive either.
|Apr 03, 2009, 03:45 PM|
Joined Feb 2004
Sealing Wingtip Floats
That was my idea about using the expanding foam. Sorry about that Brad!
A couple more suggestions:
1. Same procedure for sealing wing to wing saddle. Lay down a thin bead of silicone sealer around the edge of the tip float, then lay down plastic wrap on top of silicone and attach float to wing. Let set for 24 hours, disassemble float from wing, remove plastic wrap, watertight silicone bead will run perimeter of tip float and float can be removed from wing for future maintenance.
2. Cut a thin piece of styrene, .015 or .020 to fit top of tip float. Glue styrene to top of tip float. Should seal up tip float nicely.
|Apr 03, 2009, 11:53 PM|
OK Freddy, we'll compromise...I thought about filling the floats and you came up with the solution.
I like your idea about making a "gasket" with clear silicone but I got lazy and just put some on there to seal it.
|Apr 03, 2009, 11:56 PM|
One thing I have to say, is that the pictures do not do this plane justice. It really looks much nicer in person, it has a presence unlike any of my other airplanes.
I have the airframe completed, with all servos installed and pushrods connected. looks like about 11.5 lbs as shown, that includes only the complete airframe with servos, motors, esc's, and props.
I replaced the included nylon wing bolts with some SAE hardware, because it is difficult to find replacement metric nylon bolts, and I don't trust the Chinese plastic ones..they are sometimes too brittle. I also added a nylon spacer glued into the wing so the bolts seat at the proper angle.
Another important note- The instructions for the rudder servo horn are wrong. The pushrod needs to go towards the bottom of the plane, or else the horn has no material in the rudder to grab on to. Another builder on RCU did this as per instructions and crushed the rudder. See picture.
Servo control arm screws not installed yet until I get all the servos centered.
After much searching, I did find some Corrosion-X locally and sprayed the ESC's with it. First time trying this, as per recommendations from other seaplane flyers
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