[QUOTE=Flying By;23899078]

Originally Posted by Herman Munster

Yup, that's what I mean. Thanks again. I am sure I will have lots of questions as I start my build.

What did you use to mount the motor? I saw the PEX pipe/threaded rod set up earlier in the thread. Is the motor really that far away from the mounting wall?

It's approx. 3 3/8" from the fire wall to the end of the nacelle. I used 1/2" long standoffs on mine. I use nylon standoffs on my motors. They are about 1/2" diameter with hollow center and come in various lengths, most hardware stores carry them, I get mine at Ace Hardware. I just mount the supplied X mount to the motor and then use either 6-32 or 8-32 socket head cap screws to bolt it to blind nuts mounted in the firewall. I usually use fender washers between the nylon standoffs and the firewall to keep the standoffs from digging into the firewall.

HM,
My friend who had one of these porpoised his in.
Have you had any porpoise problems? Any pointers for making smooth takeoffs?

(Two power 46's, 13x6.5 props and 5s 5000's.)
Thanks, Walter

Originally Posted by TripleW

HM,
My friend who had one of these porpoised his in.
Have you had any porpoise problems? Any pointers for making smooth takeoffs?

(Two power 46's, 13x6.5 props and 5s 5000's.)
Thanks, Walter

I haven't had any problems with porpoising at all Is it possible that he had his CG off and it was a little tail heavy? The correct CG for this plane is 75mm not the 90mm that's stated in the instructions.
On takeoff I just slowly bring up the power until it's up on plane and once it's reached flying speed a little up elevator and she's airborne.

That might of been his problem. Thanks, Walter

Mine arrived today. Was a bit too large to sneak past the wife (also had to try to sneak in a Dynam Catalina at the same time). The bolt kit bag had come open in the box so I hope that I managed to collect all the parts.

This is one thing that I did and I'm not saying it has to be done, it's just my opinion. I took the nuts, bolts etc and threw them out. In the Chinese made kits I've found that the quality of the nuts, bolts etc. to be very hit and miss. Some are good while others I've had bolt heads snap off if you look at them sideways. I figure the cost to replace these accessories isn't that much especially when you consider what the cost would be should a critical one fail in flight.

Originally Posted by Herman Munster

This is one thing that I did and I'm not saying it has to be done, it's just my opinion. I took the nuts, bolts etc and threw them out. In the Chinese made kits I've found that the quality of the nuts, bolts etc. to be very hit and miss. Some are good while others I've had bolt heads snap off if you look at them sideways. I figure the cost to replace these accessories isn't that much especially when you consider what the cost would be should a critical one fail in flight.

Not a bad idea. You are right that it wouldn't be much to replace the hardware. Just a matter of finding the right sized replacements - without a reference guide on what you are actually replacing. That would be the toughest part.

What power (kg per cm) of standard servo is recommended all around?

5 amp ubec enough to power them all?

Originally Posted by Flying By

What power (kg per cm) of standard servo is recommended all around?

5 amp ubec enough to power them all?

A 5 amp BEC will be more than enough. I use the Dimension Engineering Sport BEC on mine and it is only 3.5 amp. http://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/sportbec. I like it because it allows you to operate your servos at 6 volts if they are capable of it.
I run Hitec HS 645MG servos on my plane. They are rated at 106 oz of torque @ 4.8 volts and 133 oz. of torque @ 6 volt. I think you could do just fine with the Hitec HS 485HB (or something similar), they are rated at 66.6 oz. torque @ 4.8volts and 83.3 oz. torque @ 6 volts.
I would highly recommend using a metal gear servo in the rudder as it's taking a lot of abuse with the water rudder.

I am doing a few calculations and need the approximate top speed of the plane. Anyone have any ideas?

Will be running 11x7x3 props on 5s batteries with 46 size 670kv motors.

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, never mind

5s vs 6s
Flying By why did you go with 5s??? Just curious?

I had to put my build on hold due to other projects and now im back at it and ill be ordering motors today and im going with 60 size, 50mm dia, in the range of 500-700kv. Whats the main benefit of KV at this point if anything? I plan on using 11x6x3 or 12x6x3 props for a mix of scale size and effeciency.

Originally Posted by KTL13

5s vs 6s
Flying By why did you go with 5s??? Just curious?

I had to put my build on hold due to other projects and now im back at it and ill be ordering motors today and im going with 60 size, 50mm dia, in the range of 500-700kv. Whats the main benefit of KV at this point if anything? I plan on using 11x6x3 or 12x6x3 props for a mix of scale size and effeciency.

The KV has to do with your prop speed. KV x Volts = RPM

I know what KVs are, just wondering if ill see a difference in that range. Like maybe a bit more top speed at 700kv??

Originally Posted by KTL13

5s vs 6s
Flying By why did you go with 5s??? Just curious?

I had to put my build on hold due to other projects and now im back at it and ill be ordering motors today and im going with 60 size, 50mm dia, in the range of 500-700kv. Whats the main benefit of KV at this point if anything? I plan on using 11x6x3 or 12x6x3 props for a mix of scale size and effeciency.

When I did the calculations, 5S with 11x7x3 blades with 670kv motor I will get the thrust I want/need with good flying times on 2 5000mah 5S packs.

I could have gone with a lower KV motor and 6S but I didn't find a motor that was in the price range and KV range that I wanted.

Additionally, I have an EDF that I can use the 5S batteries in...and it wouldn't take 6S.