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Old Dec 16, 2012, 10:23 PM
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United States, CA, Cameron Park
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They have to be glued into place. Before you do so make sure that the paint on the aluminum tabs are sanded away to assure a better glue bonding. I jigged my Wolf to make sure that all is square and the incidences are right and used JB weld to glue the tabs into place. Take your time with this part as it will influence a lot as to how your Wolf will fly.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 10:30 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
San Jose, CA
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chopper62 View Post
I'm going over the manual before assembling. In Step 13, Wing Struts, the manual shown 3M bolts are used to hold the wing struts onto the aluminium tabs. However, the manual does not indicate whether the aluminium tabs are to be CA'd or epoxy onto the wings. Are these aluminium tabs "free flowing in the wings? Thanks.
Epoxy after roughing the part of the sides that go into the slots up with course grit sand paper...

SteveT
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highfly! View Post
They have to be glued into place. Before you do so make sure that the paint on the aluminum tabs are sanded away to assure a better glue bonding. I jigged my Wolf to make sure that all is square and the incidences are right and used JB weld to glue the tabs into place. Take your time with this part as it will influence a lot as to how your Wolf will fly.
Thanks. My first bipe plane. Btw, I don't have an incidence meter. Short of getting one or two, any way to check for proper incidences on this plane as the manual is "weak."
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 11:01 PM
Use the 4S Luke
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USA, TX, Euless
Joined Aug 2003
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I did not check the incidence on the review plane. It flies great. I would not worry. It's very difficult to change anyway.
FWIW, test fit the aluminum tabs. The threaded hole and rounded end stick out of the wing.
When fully seated, the strut (there ARE left and right and up and down) should be against the wing surface when bolted to the tab.
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 11:04 AM
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Tucson
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By the way, you can find the 2 Hyperion Pitts 58 inch planes on sale for about $175. Such a deal.

Has anyone tried a 4035 in these? I could not get a 4025?

And, will these guys carry 10,000 mAh of 6S batteries. The have tons of wing.
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 12:04 PM
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The tabs were installed and checked for "eveness" of the wings per the manual and they are good.

The blind nuts for the motor were removed. The old holes were covered with wood dowel and new motor mount holes were drilled for the Motrolfly 4325-380. I'm using nylon nuts instead of blind-nuts for the motor bolts. Using 1/2 inch off-set, I'm getting approximately 1/8 inch clearance between the cowl and the prop. I'm planning to use spinner so add may be another 1/16 inch clearance.

At the pace of assembling, she will be ready for first flight in the spring of 2013.
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:48 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
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I assume and hope that by nylon nuts, you mean "Nylock" nuts, not actual nylon nuts, as that would be a recipe for disaster.....

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Old Jan 21, 2013, 12:13 AM
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Tucson
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After 6 flights of the Wolf Samson Pitts, the flight is a bit different than I expected.

The plane likes to be nose heavy, and a CG near to the leading edge of the bottom wing flies well. I cannot fit 10,000 mAh of 6S batteries on it, as there is not quite enough room in the battery compartment. But using only 6,000 mAh of batteries leaves the nose very light, and the plane tends to go dangerously high alpha.

I am using a 4035 and 17 x 10" prop. It will fly about 8 minutes on 8,000 mAh 6S. And the motor will heat up with this prop. On low power, high alpha, the plane will fall off a wingtip. The plane will slow down to land, and ailerons work well at low speed. Rudder at low speed is not advisable, as it will tend to snap roll. But rudder while taking off does steer the plane nicely.

My evaluation of the flying characteristics are that the Wolf Samson is a rather stable flier compared to the heavier glow/gas Pitts versions. But the Hyperion Pitts still holds some of the bad habits of the full sized plane. If you are looking for an agile aerobatic plane with good high alpha behavior, I would prefer the Steinbach over the Pitts, by far.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 07:09 AM
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United States, IL, West Dundee
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I also have the 4035-10 on mine with APC 17x8 and 2 1/2" Tru-Turn lite spinner. I keep the rear of my 6S-4000mAh pack about 8 1/2" behind the motor mount and 1/2" behind that is my 5cell 2/3A rx pack (1500mAh). I can't say where the cg is located now but it flies just a hair forward of neutral pitch. My bingo timer is set for 7 minutes. It's pretty docile - doesn't display the high alpha tendencies you describe. Easy to land. Stalls are usually not a surprise. I'm very happy with the 4035. The recommended 4025 would have left it tail heavy indeed. My motor gets pretty warm, too. I sent the first one back thinking it got hotter than a heavy "high end" motor should. It's been running strong for 3 flying seasons now. I like the 17x8 on this setup.
Pete
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 04:29 PM
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Anyone know of a place that has this in stock?
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 05:33 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
San Jose, CA
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Nope....except possibly one place in Europe..and it would cast you lots of money to have it shipped to the US....

SteveT.
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Old Mar 11, 2013, 06:12 PM
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A quick update. Was able to get a flight in last week on the Sampson. I'm using a Hacker
A60-6XS, Castle Ice 100 ESC with a Castle Pro BEC and a Thunder Power 6 Cell 25C battery and an APC 20 X 11 2 Blade Prop. This was a trimming flight so except for take off I did not push the plane at all.
Max Volts were 25, Max Amps were 82.8, Max Watts were 1727, Max RPMs 5764 and Max Temp was 145 degrees F.
It still flies nose heavy, I had to add in a bit of "up" elevator trim and still noticed I was uising back pressure on the stick. I started orginally with the battery up against the front bulkhead for the first flight. Waaayyy nose heavy! Next I moved the battery back about 1" still Very Nose heavy. I moved the battery back another 1/2" for a total of 1-3/4" (accounting for velcro in between balsa block spacers) to where it is at now and still nose heavy. Next outing I will move the battery back to 2" back from the front and see how it goes. Also will try a Thunder Power 6 Cell 65C and see if there is a difference in proformance.

al
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Old Mar 11, 2013, 06:21 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
San Jose, CA
Joined Jan 2008
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One thing to remember about the A60-6XS when looking at the watts is that trying to compare the watts of a 28 pole motor and a 14 pole motor is not applicable, as it is like apples and oranges...the lower wattage of a 28 pole motor still equates to as high or higher power than a 14 pole of the same size. And...try a Xoar 21X10, as the A60 likes that prop..

SteveT.
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Old Mar 11, 2013, 08:04 PM
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Thanks for the tip on the Prop Steve I'll give it a try. Can you explain in simple terms (because I am almost up to simple so it will be a reach for me to understand) why measured watts is not meaningful? Or is it a matter of comparing the performance between two different motors?
Thanks,
al
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Old Mar 11, 2013, 08:10 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
San Jose, CA
Joined Jan 2008
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A 28 pole motor is more efficient than a 14 pole motor, other than that, I really don't know... Mike or Kyle at Aeromodel could explain it, but I have never actually taken the time to ask them. And it's not that measuring the watts is not meaningful, it's just that you can't compare them to a 14 pole motor of the same size. The 14 pole might be showing 2200 watts, and the 28 pole only 18 watts, but on the same prop etc, the 28 pole is putting out more thrust...and drawing less amps.

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