The instrument panel for the 35e size is too wide to move back to the correct position. Just have to settle for the way it is - not a true scale version anyway.

Just got mine today, ordered Hyperion ZS4025-16. Anybody able to find prop performance data on the -16 motor with 5S? All I can find is the -14 data.

Originally Posted by mandoman

Just got mine today, ordered Hyperion ZS4025-16. Anybody able to find prop performance data on the -16 motor with 5S? All I can find is the -14 data.

Our website has the prop chart but it only has 6S, 7S, 8S data. 5S is really way too low for the 4025-16 unless you are going to run a huge prop like a 22x10. That's why 5S isn't even on the chart. The 4025-16 is usually used in 8S setups.
http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-18...ushless/Detail

A word of caution for Samson builders: carefully check the security of the ball link ends on the inter-wing pushrods. I was hooking mine up when I thought I felt one move. I gave a slight tug on the plastic ball link and the whole rod slid right out of the carbon tube. I checked the other three ends and two more slid apart with only a slight tug. The fourth seemed secure. These are not a good design, the steel rod has no grooves in it to trap glue where it fits inside the carbon tube so there is no mechanical locking, just the shear of whatever glue they used, or maybe forgot to use in my case. I've not seen any other posts about a problem, so maybe it's just mine, but I'm glad I caught it during assembly, it was a sure crash waiting to happen.

I'd also advise removing the paint from the base of the threaded tabs for the interplane struts before epoxying then into the slots in the wings, and rough them up a bit before gluing them in, otherwise it's the adhesion of the paint that's holding your airplane together, not the glue. The hole in the tab will help, but I wouldn't count on that alone.

Other than that, I think this is a great ARF, everything is spectacularly well made and the fit and finish are the best I've ever seen.

Now, can anyone tell me how the heck to get those two top cowl screws installed? I can get them into the firewall holes no problem, but can't get on them with any kind of hex driver, at least without a u-joint.

Originally Posted by mandoman

A word of caution for Samson builders: carefully check the security of the ball link ends on the inter-wing pushrods. I was hooking mine up when I thought I felt one move. I gave a slight tug on the plastic ball link and the whole rod slid right out of the carbon tube. I checked the other three ends and two more slid apart with only a slight tug. The fourth seemed secure. These are not a good design, the steel rod has no grooves in it to trap glue where it fits inside the carbon tube so there is no mechanical locking, just the shear of whatever glue they used, or maybe forgot to use in my case. I've not seen any other posts about a problem, so maybe it's just mine, but I'm glad I caught it during assembly, it was a sure crash waiting to happen.

I'd also advise removing the paint from the base of the threaded tabs for the interplane struts before epoxying then into the slots in the wings, and rough them up a bit before gluing them in, otherwise it's the adhesion of the paint that's holding your airplane together, not the glue. The hole in the tab will help, but I wouldn't count on that alone.

Other than that, I think this is a great ARF, everything is spectacularly well made and the fit and finish are the best I've ever seen.

Now, can anyone tell me how the heck to get those two top cowl screws installed? I can get them into the firewall holes no problem, but can't get on them with any kind of hex driver, at least without a u-joint.

All of the issues you listed are already known.

For the rods, I used these carbon fiber rods and titanium rod ends available from Central Hobbies, who by the way also sells a great set of JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) Philips screwdrivers which everybody that flies ARFs or Japanese made helicopter should have.

And yes, remove the paint on the tabs.... (heck, the original instructions never even said anything about epoxying them into the wings...)

As to the cowl screws, all four are inserted from the inside, but not easily. I just stuck some strong magnets on a ball hex driver, and with a bit of squinting, was able to install the screws.

And last but not least, balance your plane at least 1/4" to 3/8" forward of the called for CG. On the first flight with mine balanced as called for it was definitely tail heavy.

SteveT

Thanks for the CG info, I had it balanced at the spec location so I'll move it forward a bit. Did you go with the recommended throws?

That cowl installation is something Dante couldn't have dreamed up in his worst nightmare. I'm going to have to go buy a U-jointed driver for the top 2 screws. Bottom ones were no problem.

Just got my ZS4025-16 today and spent the night getting it installed. Thought it was DOA because I could not get it to run. After chasing the problem all night, trying different ESC/motor combinations, finally turned out my brand new AR6200 Rx has a dead throttle channel. All the other channels work, but throttle is no go. Swapped out the Rx and everything is good to go.

The recommended throws are the full throws, cut them down for low rates....

As to the cowl screws.... I really don't know why you are having so much of a problem, as I put all four of them in with a long ball hex driver... Stand the plane on it's nose, and put all four in...

There is a discussion right now on another thread about AR6200s. They are actually just AR600s that a satellite receiver has been added to, and many people are having problems with them.

SteveT

Finally got those top cowl screws in. I made paper template of the holes in the firewall and laid it over the matching (sic!) holes in the cowl mounts and they didn't line up. one of the bottom holes was off about 1/8" so when I put the bottom ones in first, both top holes were off far enough to prevent the screws from threading in. Opening up the bad hole fixed it.

Pilot appears to have the right attitude for his maiden flight.

Originally Posted by mandoman

Finally got those top cowl screws in. I made paper template of the holes in the firewall and laid it over the matching (sic!) holes in the cowl mounts and they didn't line up. one of the bottom holes was off about 1/8" so when I put the bottom ones in first, both top holes were off far enough to prevent the screws from threading in. Opening up the bad hole fixed it.

Pilot appears to have the right attitude for his maiden flight.

Yeah, I did forget about them being slightly off. I had opened up all four of mine and then they went in.

And yes, cool pilot....

Oh...and count the number of valve cover clearance "bumps" in the cowl. I'll give you a hint....there should be eighteen.. I.E. two per cylinder of a nine cylinder radial. When I went to install my "fake engine" (not the one included in the kit), they would not line up....two short!!

Check out... my Samson....

SteveT

Going a bit nuts here guys. All ready to maiden, but I'm having trouble with the collet adapter refusing to hold. I've got the Hyperion ZS4025-16 with an 18-12 prop on 6S and am using the collet that came with it, but it just doesn't have enough grip to hold. On every run-up it lets go at about 3/4 throttle and the prop and spinner sail off into the sunset. I've got it fully engaged on the shaft and reefed down as tight as an 8" wrench will get it but no go. Tried another identical collet with the same results. Also tried a bit of blue loctite on the shaft with no improvement.

Any ideas, I've used dozens of these and never had a problem before. Should I switch to the setscrew type? There's no flat on the shaft, so that's likely to be problematic too.

Need some help so I can fly it this weekend!

Originally Posted by mandoman

Going a bit nuts here guys. All ready to maiden, but I'm having trouble with the collet adapter refusing to hold. I've got the Hyperion ZS4025-16 with an 18-12 prop on 6S and am using the collet that came with it, but it just doesn't have enough grip to hold. On every run-up it lets go at about 3/4 throttle and the prop and spinner sail off into the sunset. I've got it fully engaged on the shaft and reefed down as tight as an 8" wrench will get it but no go. Tried another identical collet with the same results. Also tried a bit of blue loctite on the shaft with no improvement.

Any ideas, I've used dozens of these and never had a problem before. Should I switch to the setscrew type? There's no flat on the shaft, so that's likely to be problematic too.

Need some help so I can fly it this weekend!

Roughen the shaft with some 100 grit emery cloth.....go around the shaft, not inline, and also make sure you close the openings in the motor off with some tape.

SteveT

I'll give that a try. Yeah, I learned about taping off the openings in the motor once when I ground a flat on a motor shaft and it would no longer run, all the magnets were shorted by filings!

Got the maiden done, and a couple of subsequent flights. Everything went fine, but I'm not overly impressed with the performance. With the ZS4025-16, 18x12E prop, 6S-4400 40C and a 100amp ESC, it seemed anemic even though the wattmeter said it was pulling 90 amps and over 2000W static. I didn't have to add any weight to get the CG, so it's as light as I can get it. It was fine for tooting around the field and doing mild aerobatics, but it's got virtually no vertical capability. At 250W/lb, it should do better than that. Think I'll try a 19x10 prop and see if it helps.

I ordered the Samson 35e about a month ago but it is on backorder. About half of Hyperion's planes are on backorder. I wander why so many?

Originally Posted by mandoman

Got the maiden done, and a couple of subsequent flights. Everything went fine, but I'm not overly impressed with the performance. With the ZS4025-16, 18x12E prop, 6S-4400 40C and a 100amp ESC, it seemed anemic even though the wattmeter said it was pulling 90 amps and over 2000W static. I didn't have to add any weight to get the CG, so it's as light as I can get it. It was fine for tooting around the field and doing mild aerobatics, but it's got virtually no vertical capability. At 250W/lb, it should do better than that. Think I'll try a 19x10 prop and see if it helps.

Just watch your wattage!

I'm using a different motor and an 18 in prop. I would agree that my performance is also anemic... when compared to most of todays 3d planes.

It is in fact right in line with most gassers of that size and well.. RL planes as well. I get just enough verticality to so a nice upline to a stall turn, looks very nice. But no 3d with it as recommended that's for sure.

It's "weaker" than any of my other planes but I think it actually falls right in line with what a plane like that "should" to be close to scale performance and scale stunts.