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Old May 01, 2009, 11:23 AM
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Got my motor and servos ordered. Took a few minutes to look at all the pieces and was pleasantly surprised on how well everything looks and goes together. Looks like a strong little plane. I'm going to build a new battery tray (longer) and maybe replaced the pushrods...but that's about it. Can't wait to get crackin' on it!

-Lee
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Old May 02, 2009, 01:29 PM
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Wings in, flaps cut

Hobby Services sent me replacement wings yesterday. Super fast delivery.

Instead of cutting the ailerons in half, I decided to cut to 8" 3/8ths so that the flaps and ailerons would 'split' one of the CA hinges. This way I have more aileron control, ample flap control surface, and hopefully no flutter. (see photo)

The linkage for the flaps is still up in the air. I "think" I'm going to secure one pushrod from the left flap over to the servo arm and attach the right flap pushrod onto the left pushrod (wrap and solder). The key to keeping both flaps at the same angle will be in the servo arm. Honestly, I'm probably worrying about it more than necessary.

I've got a Hobby City HXT 42-60 600Kv ordered which will run off a 5S 4000mAh LiPo. From the reviews, a 12x8" APC E should do nicely. I considered an AXI 4120/14 but felt like it was overkill (and expensive). Anyone else using this motor...or have an opinion?

I'll be using Futaba 3004's for ailerons and flaps. However, I've got some sweet JR MN-48's for the rudder and elevator. Tiny servos, lots of torque. Not sure if I'm going to use a BEC or separate 5v receiver battery. My Spektrum receivers have given me problems in the past with sensitive voltage issues from BECs (both internal and external). A 5v battery has never been a problem. Weight will be a deciding issue.

Loving the build so far. Hopefully will have it in the air this month! More pics to come.

-Lee
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Old May 02, 2009, 02:01 PM
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Maybe you could use two mini servos for the flaps that could be modified to fit in the standard servo bay so that they could be mixed so that they can be used as flaperons so you can still have full-span ailerons and inboard flaps! I might try that with mine if it ever comes in (due early may now) becuase im putting flaots on mine, so flaps would be very usefull to make landings slower an takeoffs in shorter distances, but I would still need full-span ailerons for a good roll rate.
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Old May 02, 2009, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mchone, Jake
...full-span ailerons and inboard flaps!...
I did think about that but felt it was overkill. Flaps are more of an 'extra' than any necessity (for me). With the shorter wing span vs. my 4*40, I expect the roll rate will be adequate with the amount of ailerons I have left. Worst case scenario...I swap out the one servo for two if I feel I need the flaps/ailerons mixed.

Time to go out to the garage and glue on the rudder & elevator!

-Lee
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Old May 02, 2009, 10:34 PM
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Got the tail on...no problems. Some fellas flying the glow version on RCU recommended replacing the stock tail-wheel with a Sullivan brand. I did this but wasn't too happy with the bends. The wheel spring seemed bent at a side angle and the rudder spring did not line up with the wheel. I ended up bending the rudder spring a bit to get it to line up properly but felt like $8 wasn't worth the effort.

I'll be installing the elevator & rudders servos tomorrow and carving out a new battery tray. More to come.

-Lee
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Old May 03, 2009, 12:58 AM
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I've leared that any tailwheel system with springs just isnt worth it unless its a large scale scale'd ship. Not worth the time or money and in some cases the springs can cause lots of weird and intermitant glitches when the engine is running and the springs are vibrating.
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Old May 03, 2009, 06:05 PM
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Build update 05/03/09

Got some work done today on the flaps. Here are some pics of the build so far.

Created a template for a new battery tray. Once that's done I'll start working on the servo trays for the MN-48's.

-Lee
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Old May 04, 2009, 02:30 AM
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Looking good!
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Old May 04, 2009, 10:57 PM
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My 3004's arrived today. Just got back from installing one of them in a wing. The instructions recommend a 6" extension but that was clearly not long enough. I opted for a heavy-duty 12" extension. Of all my years building I've never used a swivel connector. Saw some at my LHS last week so I picked up a pair. Looks kinda bulky on the control horn but the movement sure is smmoooooooth.

I think I'll skip installing the JR MN-48's and just run with the 3004's for the elevator and rudder. The plane is built for them so why mess up a good thing?. I'm going to use an S-148 servo for flaps. Should have all the servos in by tomorrow. Things are moving along nicely.

Cheers - Lee
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Old May 07, 2009, 04:11 PM
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Hey Lee, I was waiting for someone else to raise this question, but since no one has, I will. You have mentioned several times your concern with 'flutter' from the ailerons. It was my understanding that if some were present, it would be from a looseness in the linkage, and or in the servo gears. Why would it originate in the aileron itself? Is there some force at work thatI should know about? Just trying to learn, not to be critical.
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Old May 07, 2009, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arniebud
...You have mentioned several times your concern with 'flutter' from the ailerons...
Arnie, I'm concerned with flutter stemming from the CUT in the ailerons. You mentioned yours at 11". On my wing there is no hinge at that mark. With the cut made there I felt that there might be too much gap between hinges. The ailerons might flutter between the cut and flaps.

Placing the cut at 8" and into a hinge provides two benefits: 1) 8" of flap should be more than enough and allows for longer ailerons, and 2) Less chance of flutter since both control surfaces are attached to a hinge where they split. You may not run into any problems at all. This was simply a decision I made to play it safe.

As for linkage flutter...my Futaba 3004 servos rattle a bit but not too terribly. Heck, my Hitec HS-55s feel stronger! However, the swivel links are SOLID. They stick out a bit (drag) but certainly seem to be the way to go on larger (.40+) aircraft. I don't expect to have any problems with flutter with my wing configuration but will keep you posted.

Still no electric motor. My stuff is literally on a SLOW BOAT FROM CHINA.

-Lee
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Old May 07, 2009, 09:44 PM
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Lee, I hear you about the slow boat from China, been there, done that. Is it your practice, with new construction, to cut your hinges very, very close to the aileron edge, as you have done here, or is that only with flap hinge location? All of my planes have hinges located 11/2 to 2" from edges. I have not, to my knowledge, experienced flutter. BYW, my hinge locations are probably the same as yours. The cut, at 11", is almost exactly midway between 2 hinges, which is why I made the cut at that point. I felt that there was sufficient aileron left to provide the type of flying I do. I hope I was right.
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Old May 07, 2009, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arniebud
Hey Lee, I was waiting for someone else to raise this question, but since no one has, I will. You have mentioned several times your concern with 'flutter' from the ailerons. It was my understanding that if some were present, it would be from a looseness in the linkage, and or in the servo gears. Why would it originate in the aileron itself? Is there some force at work thatI should know about? Just trying to learn, not to be critical.
Control surface flutter can come from loose linkages or gears or even loose control horns, but most commonly come from either too few hinges on a surface, and/or a large gap (more than 3mm) between the TE of the stabe or wing and the LE of teh surface. This can be easly fixed filling the gap. This is done by adding a 1/2" wide strip of tape or covering over the hing area so that air cannot come between the gap and cause sloppy control and flutter by turbulant air coming from under the stabe/wing to the top of the surface.

Complex thing with a very easy fix.
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Old May 13, 2009, 03:15 PM
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Well...two weeks have gone by since I ordered the motor from Hobby City. Still no package. Can't do anything else until it arrives. Well, I "could" put on the decals.

Met a fella last Saturday who has built a couple of Escapades. He's been putting .55 sized glow engines in 'em and tearing them apart down the runway. It seems he and his friends like to run them like pylon racers. So far, it sounds like all of them have seen the trash can. He likes them a lot but has experienced elevator failure like a few others have discussed on RCU. It's been noted that the torque rod in the elevator is not glued in very well (or at all) from the factory. I checked all my CA hinges and the torque rod and all appears fine on mine. Just something to consider if you're building a new one.

Hopefully I'll have a "real" update for you all in a few days.

Cheers, -Lee
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Old May 13, 2009, 09:32 PM
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Hobby City usually takes atleast 3 weeks, upto 6 in my last order from them!
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