Wow, that's rather shocking. Are you sure those were "brand new"? At this point, it might be wise to go through the whole helicopter and check all fasteners.

Yes they were brand new and sealed, im only working on one and keeping the other one as a reference, They look like most other helis when naked :-) I am going over them with a fine tooth comb and checking everything thoroughly. It could have been worse it could have come off in full flight !

They say what happens does so for the best, while working on it I have discovered a work around for the problem "run-time error 13" when trying to access the alarm tab.

Power the heli with its battery, then plug the lead into the computer then run the software and bingo you can get to the alarm screen without getting a runtime error.

Happy days

You may find this helpful if you're going to be doing a bit of work on this heli.

http://www.innovator-rc.com/m_play.p...assembly-MD530

Brilliant, thanks

Hiya Folks

I have recently found out how to setup Innovator controller for FMS and as I could not find any help anywhere figured I would help others out as My Brother Ritchie has recieved a lot of help on this for for our MD 530, please see attached pictures to setup the controller on Vista and XP.

Larry

Originally Posted by Larryuk

Hiya Folks

I have recently found out how to setup Innovator controller for FMS and as I could not find any help anywhere figured I would help others out as My Brother Ritchie has recieved a lot of help on this for for our MD 530, please see attached pictures to setup the controller on Vista and XP.

Larry

Thanks for that! Be aware that FMS is a very old, free online sim and it's about the worst, outdated sim you can use. The heli physics are not realistic at all, so don't get used to the way things feel on the sim as they will not transfer to real life very well.

The best sims for helis are Phoenix and Real Flight. They cost, but are much more like reality.

Originally Posted by Xrayted

Thanks for that! Be aware that FMS is a very old, free online sim and it's about the worst, outdated sim you can use. The heli physics are not realistic at all, so don't get used to the way things feel on the sim as they will not transfer to real life very well.

The best sims for helis are Phoenix and Real Flight. They cost, but are much more like reality.

Thanks for the info, being a novice and only attempting to fly for about 3 weeks now, I need all the help I can get,
When money funds improve I intend to get a dx6i and phoenix

Wondering if anyone is familiar with this setup, I'm flying the Innovator with a Futaba 10C with the ACE Rc module. It was flying fine before, but it always annoyed me I could never get a seperate auto rotation switch to kill engine programmed in. Recently I've been having the engine cutout on me in hover and when I switch back the the stock transmitted I had no issue, so I'm pretty sure it's related to the radio programming. Between checking the Radio Servo status screen and the helicopter status when plugged in I think Channel 6 is assigned to the auto rotation switch, but on my radio channel 3 and 6 go up and down together. I have have Swash type H-1 selected, checking with the Heli plugged in when i push the throttle up the CP status goes up and auto rotation turns off. Can make the auto rotation switch channel 6 seperate from the CP on channel 3?

Originally Posted by docinfrance

"I dont quite understand how do do it without hacking into the battery like I did" I think it is possible just to power up the heli without the ID and temp data connections.
Have a look at Xviper's hack.




Regards this battery, well I first saw one on e-bay, but didn't keep the link.
Why? because it was listed as a battery for Soft Air guns.
This inspired me to take a trip to my local armurerie who hold a huge stock of paintball gear and I was able to match the size to the battery case in person.
That way I was able to ensure that is a genuine 103mm x 15mm x 34mm battery.
Last time I bought a battery on e-bay that claimed it was inside the 21mm x 40mm limits of the Inno case it turned out to be 3mm too fat.

Hello. I've been trying to sell my MD on another site. No one wants these, so I think I'll hang on to it while the parts last and try your battery mod. How do you approach opening the battery case without cutting the battery inside? Did you use a rotory tool? After you remove the battery, how do you keep it safe until you dispose of it properly?

Thank you.

Originally Posted by CM_HeliPilot

Hello. I've been trying to sell my MD on another site. No one wants these, so I think I'll hang on to it while the parts last and try your battery mod. How do you approach opening the battery case without cutting the battery inside? Did you use a rotory tool? After you remove the battery, how do you keep it safe until you dispose of it properly?

Thank you.

Yes, I used a Dremel tool with a cutting disc. Cut along the edges where there's already a seam. Don't go too deep. I keep all my batteries in one of those fireproof document boxes. Also, once you cut any wires or contact points, wrap it up in electrical tape so you don't accidentally short them out. All you need is that Innovator battery module. If you can find a battery that will fit inside the stock casing, then you can seal it all back up, but I found the re-soldering of all the contacts to be too daunting.
I've posted these before but I'll post them all in one place so they're handy. I made a "battery box" that is slung from underneath the original holder. This allows the stock battery tray to be pushed up into its "flying" position and the Turnigy battery can be tucked mostly inside the helicopter. After connecting up the battery leads, those wires can by pushed up and inside the cockpit.
I have a feeling these helis won't have much of a market anywhere. I bought another one used just for spares.

Originally Posted by xviper

Yes, I used a Dremel tool with a cutting disc. Cut along the edges where there's already a seam. Don't go too deep. I keep all my batteries in one of those fireproof document boxes. Also, once you cut any wires or contact points, wrap it up in electrical tape so you don't accidentally short them out. All you need is that Innovator battery module. If you can find a battery that will fit inside the stock casing, then you can seal it all back up, but I found the re-soldering of all the contacts to be too daunting.
I've posted these before but I'll post them all in one place so they're handy. I made a "battery box" that is slung from underneath the original holder. This allows the stock battery tray to be pushed up into its "flying" position and the Turnigy battery can be tucked mostly inside the helicopter. After connecting up the battery leads, those wires can by pushed up and inside the cockpit.
I have a feeling these helis won't have much of a market anywhere. I bought another one used just for spares.

i hear you! my fleet is like an auto race team. i have a primary (really good heli), a back up (pretty good heli), and enough parts to construct a third. i can approach this two ways;
1. fly 'em until they fly no more. or,
2. fly them once and awhile to prolong their lifespan and have something else to fly all the time. i think i'll go with number 2. (my esky honey bee modified now finally flys and parts are cheap for it. test flight posted in my profile, or blog.)
i like like my md530s and i bought mine right at the end of the hype. the great part is that my md530's fly, and fly well at that. it has been a fantastic heli for me.

I live in Minnesota and My Innovator batteries sit in storage for about 4 months, is it good to store them at 100% charge ? thanks

Originally Posted by helimayham

I live in Minnesota and My Innovator batteries sit in storage for about 4 months, is it good to store them at 100% charge ? thanks

No lipo should be stored fully charged for very long periods. 3.85V is the suggested storage voltage for lipos.

BEEN A WHILE SINCE I WROTE but had to solve many problems , spent a month in the middle of Brazil visiting my Mother, got a Power Chair and a ramp for the car since my "mobility" is going down the drain, so just NOW tried ONE MORE TIME to make my second MD530 fly.
ALAS....! to no avail !!!

This heli was purchased from our friend SIMAGES about 12 or 13 months ago, and the defect has been ongoing since then.

It seems that EVERYTHING is right on, the battery is charged, the start up cycle goes through normally, the motor reacts OK to the lifting of the trim button, the switch on the top right side is put FWD and BCKWD but even as the blades are turning at the usual speed : THE HELI DOES NOT LIFT OFF THE GROUND,,,,,,,everthing else is responding correctly, blade plate is seen to tilt with AIL and ELE inputs, RPM sound as they always do in flight ..... ???????

Our friend FABIO had promised way back some help by using SKYPE and reversing the screens so he can plan the necessary inputs in the software, but he is so busy that the help hasn't arrived at all .

IS THERE ANYBODY OUT THERE ( XRAYTED ???? where are you ???) that knows what to do ?

This HELI is the one that I purchased from one of our old time users who gave up the sport, .....and the heli has NOT flown since it was received....... My original MD530 is a sweetheart of a toy and it gets flown all the time.

RICK HELP ME !!!!

I tend to believe that the ANSWER to this puzzle will be in : HOW IS THE PITCH OF THE BLADES CONTROLLED OR MODIFIED, USING THE SOFTWARE ......

am I right ?

Originally Posted by BARRRICK

BEEN A WHILE SINCE I WROTE but had to solve many problems , spent a month in the middle of Brazil visiting my Mother, got a Power Chair and a ramp for the car since my "mobility" is going down the drain, so just NOW tried ONE MORE TIME to make my second MD530 fly.
ALAS....! to no avail !!!

This heli was purchased from our friend SIMAGES about 12 or 13 months ago, and the defect has been ongoing since then.

It seems that EVERYTHING is right on, the battery is charged, the start up cycle goes through normally, the motor reacts OK to the lifting of the trim button, the switch on the top right side is put FWD and BCKWD but even as the blades are turning at the usual speed : THE HELI DOES NOT LIFT OFF THE GROUND,,,,,,,everthing else is responding correctly, blade plate is seen to tilt with AIL and ELE inputs, RPM sound as they always do in flight ..... ???????

Our friend FABIO had promised way back some help by using SKYPE and reversing the screens so he can plan the necessary inputs in the software, but he is so busy that the help hasn't arrived at all .

IS THERE ANYBODY OUT THERE ( XRAYTED ???? where are you ???) that knows what to do ?

This HELI is the one that I purchased from one of our old time users who gave up the sport, .....and the heli has NOT flown since it was received....... My original MD530 is a sweetheart of a toy and it gets flown all the time.

RICK HELP ME !!!!

I tend to believe that the ANSWER to this puzzle will be in : HOW IS THE PITCH OF THE BLADES CONTROLLED OR MODIFIED, USING THE SOFTWARE ......

am I right ?

Hi Barrick. Assuming you have the required RPM, the only other factor to get it in the air is your pitch curve.

You are going to need to verify what pitch you have at your various stick positions and yes, there is a standard 5 point pitch curve setup within the PC software that works just like setting up a pitch curve in any traditional computer TX. I know you have many helis and assume you also have TXs with them and have programmed pitch curves on them. It's just as simple within the PC software and if I remember correctly you will find the pitch curve tab, called CP curve under the Control tab within the software. Post # 97 of this thread has some of my old screen captures from the software to show you where the primary functions, pitch curves, expo, dual rates, etc are and what they look like within the software.