Sapac L39 test flight and build pictures - Page 2

EDDIEGIGOWATTS · Mar 17, 2009, 07:47 PM

I rudder Mod both L39s one with CA hinges and the other with robart hinges

lashmett75 · Mar 17, 2009, 10:11 PM

Guys,

I got mine in today and will start building. Here is the first mod I did. I got the idea from someone on the other L-39 thread.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=929931

EDDIEGIGOWATTS · Mar 17, 2009, 11:33 PM

here is my wing Mod to increase speed and flying time

EDDIEGIGOWATTS · Mar 17, 2009, 11:35 PM

those are nice think I,ll get a pair

Quote:

Originally Posted by lashmett75

Guys,

I got mine in today and will start building. Here is the first mod I did. I got the idea from someone on the other L-39 thread.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=929931

lashmett75 · Mar 18, 2009, 10:34 AM

Hey Eddie,

Once I open up the wing for the retracts is there any building needed? Or any recommendations for sturdying them up? And lastly, what replacement wheels would you suggest. I dont want to use the stock ones.

Thanks for any help.

James

PS...Any one have pictures of were they are putting batteries. Are you going to use 1 large battery pack 3700 mah or higher, or 2 2200-2500 packs?? I am also going to run a A123 rcvr pack about 1100-1500mah. But just wanted to get some idea for battery placement. Thanks guys.

EDDIEGIGOWATTS · Mar 18, 2009, 05:54 PM

[quote=lashmett75]Hey Eddie,

Once I open up the wing for the retracts is there any building needed? Or any recommendations for sturdying them up? And lastly, what replacement wheels would you suggest. I dont want to use the stock ones.

James go over it with thin CA and thick CA all over the retracts mounts and ribs ,I,m using parkzone TYPHOON 3D wheels for the mains and the stock wheel for the front ,,one of my favorite fields has a grass runway,,for the Lipo I used Velcro stuck to inside of the nose with two glued acros
will post pics when I get home

lashmett75 · Mar 18, 2009, 07:12 PM

[quote=EDDIEGIGOWATTS]

Quote:

Originally Posted by lashmett75

Hey Eddie,

Once I open up the wing for the retracts is there any building needed? Or any recommendations for sturdying them up? And lastly, what replacement wheels would you suggest. I dont want to use the stock ones.

James go over it with thin CA and thick CA all over the retracts mounts and ribs ,I,m using parkzone TYPHOON 3D wheels for the mains and the stock wheel for the front ,,one of my favorite fields has a grass runway,,for the Lipo I used Velcro stuck to inside of the nose with two glued acros
will post pics when I get home

Thanks for the info. I look forward to the pictures. tonight I am going to tackle the elevator setup, and edf unit install.

James

lastresort · Mar 18, 2009, 10:29 PM

Hey, Eddie I hate to ask but do you have any pictures of the front retract install. I'm guessing the center of the braced area in front of the rib. Did that work well on the prototype?

EDDIEGIGOWATTS · Mar 18, 2009, 10:51 PM

here is some pics of the prototype and Lipo velcro set up,,
give a minute to post pics of the new set up

lastresort · Mar 18, 2009, 11:03 PM

Thanks, Eddie what size front wheel is that? I need to use as tall as possible. I was thinkin one of the stock backs on the front and typhoons on the back is that what you did?

EDDIEGIGOWATTS · Mar 19, 2009, 12:11 AM

that's a MPI wheel 1.5" very fragile ,,I have a another set for the front
I am not sure what they are let Me post pics of them will like to get the same set for the rear they are nicer ,,the TYPHOONS have to be turn down with a dremel with a sanding drum to fit the wheel wells,, also you have to CA them
or they will fly off,,they are very light

EDDIEGIGOWATTS · Mar 19, 2009, 01:09 AM

here is how I balance my fans if they are out of balance,,
I used a 3 cell LIPO for the test,
take maskin tape ,,stick it to a glass table make it thick as a match book cut it in to small squares
then you take your fan flip the rotor over to a pusher configuration
mark it ,hold the fan and run it till you feel vibrate take a piece of square put it on one of the slots run it again, if it vibrates move the square in to another slot,,
by moving it around you will feel the vibration increase or decrease,you can add more or take off till it runs smooth, once you're are satisfied flip the rotor over and run it again if it vibrates twist the rotor or the spinner
you can also do this with out flipping the rotor over by adding a piece to the spinner and moving the spinner around NEVER RUN THE FAN FULL THROTLE unless is installed bench or fuse
I can balance 10 rotors in less the 15 minutes perfectly like this
for Me the balancers are a waste of time especially with small rotors
I got the idea when I watch my friend balance race car tires on a lift

EDDIEGIGOWATTS · Mar 19, 2009, 09:33 PM

when looking from top ,,both of the L39s 3500 4 cells sit almost in the middle of the canopy opening ,,also here is a pic of the front gear cut out

EDDIEGIGOWATTS · Mar 20, 2009, 08:23 AM

the blue L39 sits up too high ,,cut the gear opening that matches the belly pan
my guess is that the lower one is for scale gears,the plane was too wobbly I didn't use the wire springs on the rear

Zman39 · Mar 20, 2009, 02:30 PM

First off, thanks Eddie for putting up these pics, helpful.

Question, I am outfitting my L-39 for maximum speed (Hoffman Wild Beast, wemotec fan, CC 125 esc). Do you think the stock control clevis is sturdy enough or do you know of a better one? I know I need to get everything as slop free as possible.

Thanks
Z

Mar 17, 2009, 07:47 PM	#16
EDDIEGIGOWATTS 1.21 gigawatts Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Fort.lauderdale Florida Posts: 634	I rudder Mod both L39s one with CA hinges and the other with robart hinges Attached Thumbnails I use a dremel cutting wheel on both sides of the hinge line ,,always cut againts the blade,then I sanded the area smooth with a sanding block 69.3 KB · Views: 550 the wider post goes on the rudder and thin post on the stab,they both taper to the thicknes of the rudder 63.8 KB · Views: 460 here you can see how I sanded them to match the top to bottom the stab post is wider then the rudder post 39.7 KB · Views: 425 wider post CA,ed to the leading edge and bevel it 39.4 KB · Views: 485 hinges intalled I glued them from the inside of the rudder openings 38.4 KB · Views: 481 all CA,ed up 39.1 KB · Views: 429 depending on what servo you use is where the spar gets cut ,,I put mine upside down, sanded both sides of the servo,, cut the horn opening and spar slid servo in upside down with the horn side ways,, 72.0 KB · Views: 492 center the horn with the radio and glue servo in place with CA,, install rudder assembly make sure it moves free and CA in place ,CA horn and intall linkage,I used .62 wire with sullivan micro EZ links and thin ply horns like the ones that it comes in the 71.1 KB · Views: 452 CA hinged 75.5 KB · Views: 580 robart hinged 38.1 KB · Views: 521

Mar 17, 2009, 10:11 PM	#17
lashmett75 TEAM EJF Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Chandler, AZ Posts: 1,610	I got Mine!!! Guys, I got mine in today and will start building. Here is the first mod I did. I got the idea from someone on the other L-39 thread. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=929931 Attached Thumbnails Pilots getting ready for takeoff!!! 40.8 KB · Views: 559

Mar 17, 2009, 11:33 PM	#18
EDDIEGIGOWATTS 1.21 gigawatts Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Fort.lauderdale Florida Posts: 634	here is my wing Mod to increase speed and flying time Attached Thumbnails I cut a piece of FLITESKIN with scisors bigger then the control surface,sanded it with 180 grit paper you can also use LEXAN,, PVC ,, 60.2 KB · Views: 379 CA around the edges and horn hard point,put the FLITESKIN on ,,flip over it over on top of wax paper and add pressure to it ,,spray with kicker if you want to do it fast 63.0 KB · Views: 372 ready for sanding 66.3 KB · Views: 390 I used a block to sand the outer edges ,,then sanded the top till the trailing edge made contact with FLITESKIN with out affecting the leading edge, 57.9 KB · Views: 392 here you can see how sharp it turmed out,open up all the horn hard points , them recover them with decal ULTRACOTE or you can use the regular heating covering, took a exacto knife and rehinge them 51.2 KB · Views: 469 sharp trailing edges, this should increase performance by 15% 34.4 KB · Views: 469

Mar 18, 2009, 10:34 AM	#20
lashmett75 TEAM EJF Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Chandler, AZ Posts: 1,610	Hey Eddie, Once I open up the wing for the retracts is there any building needed? Or any recommendations for sturdying them up? And lastly, what replacement wheels would you suggest. I dont want to use the stock ones. Thanks for any help. James PS...Any one have pictures of were they are putting batteries. Are you going to use 1 large battery pack 3700 mah or higher, or 2 2200-2500 packs?? I am also going to run a A123 rcvr pack about 1100-1500mah. But just wanted to get some idea for battery placement. Thanks guys. Last edited by lashmett75; Mar 18, 2009 at 11:55 AM.

Mar 18, 2009, 10:29 PM	#23
lastresort Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 67	Front retracts. Hey, Eddie I hate to ask but do you have any pictures of the front retract install. I'm guessing the center of the braced area in front of the rib. Did that work well on the prototype?

Mar 18, 2009, 05:54 PM	#21
EDDIEGIGOWATTS 1.21 gigawatts Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Fort.lauderdale Florida Posts: 634	[quote=lashmett75]Hey Eddie, Once I open up the wing for the retracts is there any building needed? Or any recommendations for sturdying them up? And lastly, what replacement wheels would you suggest. I dont want to use the stock ones. James go over it with thin CA and thick CA all over the retracts mounts and ribs ,I,m using parkzone TYPHOON 3D wheels for the mains and the stock wheel for the front ,,one of my favorite fields has a grass runway,,for the Lipo I used Velcro stuck to inside of the nose with two glued acros will post pics when I get home

Mar 18, 2009, 10:51 PM	#24
EDDIEGIGOWATTS 1.21 gigawatts Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Fort.lauderdale Florida Posts: 634	here is some pics of the prototype and Lipo velcro set up,, give a minute to post pics of the new set up Attached Thumbnails the servo is glued to a brace going acros soak this area with thin CA followed by thick Ca 37.2 KB · Views: 592 I did the steering set up outside 23.5 KB · Views: 462 I sanded the inside and epoxy the felt side of the velcro 56.0 KB · Views: 435 the fan is also held with velcro easy to remove I did my tube in Mylar 61.2 KB · Views: 543

Mar 18, 2009, 11:03 PM	#25
lastresort Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 67	Thanks, Eddie what size front wheel is that? I need to use as tall as possible. I was thinkin one of the stock backs on the front and typhoons on the back is that what you did?

Mar 19, 2009, 12:11 AM	#26
EDDIEGIGOWATTS 1.21 gigawatts Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Fort.lauderdale Florida Posts: 634	that's a MPI wheel 1.5" very fragile ,,I have a another set for the front I am not sure what they are let Me post pics of them will like to get the same set for the rear they are nicer ,,the TYPHOONS have to be turn down with a dremel with a sanding drum to fit the wheel wells,, also you have to CA them or they will fly off,,they are very light Attached Thumbnails I ran the wire thru the servo holes around the head of the screw , then installed it ,ran the wires underneath the steering holes this way I know which wire to pull on before I crimp it,then silicone on on the steering arm holes so the wires dont slide ar 44.7 KB · Views: 594 if the whires are too loose,,you can adjust the tension by adding a shim underneath one side of the servo 51.1 KB · Views: 519 49.6 KB · Views: 504 45.1 KB · Views: 348

Mar 19, 2009, 01:09 AM	#27
EDDIEGIGOWATTS 1.21 gigawatts Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Fort.lauderdale Florida Posts: 634	here is how I balance my fans if they are out of balance,, I used a 3 cell LIPO for the test, take maskin tape ,,stick it to a glass table make it thick as a match book cut it in to small squares then you take your fan flip the rotor over to a pusher configuration mark it ,hold the fan and run it till you feel vibrate take a piece of square put it on one of the slots run it again, if it vibrates move the square in to another slot,, by moving it around you will feel the vibration increase or decrease,you can add more or take off till it runs smooth, once you're are satisfied flip the rotor over and run it again if it vibrates twist the rotor or the spinner you can also do this with out flipping the rotor over by adding a piece to the spinner and moving the spinner around NEVER RUN THE FAN FULL THROTLE unless is installed bench or fuse I can balance 10 rotors in less the 15 minutes perfectly like this for Me the balancers are a waste of time especially with small rotors I got the idea when I watch my friend balance race car tires on a lift Attached Thumbnails 40.9 KB · Views: 661 make sure the sticky side faces the blades 30.8 KB · Views: 644 Last edited by EDDIEGIGOWATTS; Mar 19, 2009 at 09:08 PM.

Mar 19, 2009, 09:33 PM	#28
EDDIEGIGOWATTS 1.21 gigawatts Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Fort.lauderdale Florida Posts: 634	when looking from top ,,both of the L39s 3500 4 cells sit almost in the middle of the canopy opening ,,also here is a pic of the front gear cut out Attached Thumbnails 3500 4 cell 86.8 KB · Views: 531 3500 4 cell 87.4 KB · Views: 478 from the hole to the first edge is 10mm to the next edge 138mm 74.6 KB · Views: 417 25mm wide I used a dremel cut off wheel. start with a smaller hole first ,then sand bigger 66.4 KB · Views: 377

Mar 20, 2009, 08:23 AM	#29
EDDIEGIGOWATTS 1.21 gigawatts Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Fort.lauderdale Florida Posts: 634	the blue L39 sits up too high ,,cut the gear opening that matches the belly pan my guess is that the lower one is for scale gears,the plane was too wobbly I didn't use the wire springs on the rear Attached Thumbnails 57.1 KB · Views: 440 here you can see the difference on location 47.4 KB · Views: 552

Mar 20, 2009, 02:30 PM	#30
Zman39 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 52	First off, thanks Eddie for putting up these pics, helpful. Question, I am outfitting my L-39 for maximum speed (Hoffman Wild Beast, wemotec fan, CC 125 esc). Do you think the stock control clevis is sturdy enough or do you know of a better one? I know I need to get everything as slop free as possible. Thanks Z

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