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Old Mar 31, 2009, 04:44 PM
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I have to agree with you about no two being alike. I looked at the 36' Corvette in the brochure today, and it is not even the same as the 36' Corvette in "The Essential Guide." The Corvette in the brochure has the same bow treatment as the Sterling Model. Maybe they were early prototypes and there were changes in the production run.

As for your avatar -- being in Southern California, we have frequent "oldies" shows and I get the pleasure of seeing quite a few rods around town from time to time. My first "custom" was an AMT 1:25 scale 32 Ford roadster and the front fenders tapered back to the body just in front of the doors, no running boards, and motorcycle fenders over the rear wheels. Still have that model boxed away. One more kid to get out of the house before I get a "ME" room to display my toys...

Pete G.
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Old Apr 02, 2009, 02:08 PM
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42' Express Cruiser Pic

42Corvette -- I had my 1955 Sales Brochure out at home, so I could scan in the 42' Express Cruiser picture. You can see the similarity to the 42' Corvette and the similarity of the treatment of the bow to the Sterling plan.

Pete G.
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Old Apr 03, 2009, 08:18 AM
Chris Craft Corvette
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United States, SC, Charleston
Joined Mar 2006
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[As for your avatar -- being in Southern California, we have frequent "oldies" shows and I get the pleasure of seeing quite a few rods around town from time to time. My first "custom" was an AMT 1:25 scale 32 Ford roadster and the front fenders tapered back to the body just in front of the doors, no running boards, and motorcycle fenders over the rear wheels. Still have that model boxed away. One more kid to get out of the house before I get a "ME" room to display my toys...

Pete G.[/QUOTE]
My avatar was a hot rod in California in the 40's and came to the midwest in the late 50's. I bought it in 1976 and finished it in 1989.

Thanks for sending the photo of the express cruiser-the hull looks the same as the Corvette.
Dick
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Old Apr 14, 2009, 03:32 PM
Chris Craft Corvette
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United States, SC, Charleston
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For running gear I decided on Mack Products propeller shafts and rudders and the stuffing boxes that Rick sells for them. Actually he has an entire drivetrain kit specifically engineered for the Sterling Corvette. I was very impressed with the quality. He also sends thorough instructions with the kit. The drive train should be ordered early [before sheeting the hull ] because of the deviation from the Sterling plans. The stuffing boxes have permanently lubricated bearings and O-ring seals installed, and the driveshafts and rudders are stainless steel. The drive shafts are ground. Really nice stuff. They are a nice contrast to the early technology of the Sterling kit.
I offset the rudder stuffing boxes about 3/16" from the centerline of the driveshafts so that I can remove the props and them remove the driveshaft without going to all the trouble of removing the rudders. I don't think this will adversely effect the steering very much.
Also, I filled around the rudder stufifing boxes with polyester resin up to the top of the stuffing boxes. The should add considerable strength to the rudder stuffing boxes. The hope is that if I hit something this will prevent or minimize any damage to the hull. I also put alot of fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin all around the driveshaft stuffing boxes for the same reason. This is not pretty fiberglass work. It will be permanently covered up with the floor boards. I plan on fiberglassing the floorboards in place to make a sealed compartment. The plan is that this will be an air pocket for floatatiion and water will not get in there to cause trouble. Here are some progress pictures
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Old Apr 18, 2009, 08:23 PM
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One for sale on eBay... CHRIS CRAFT 42' CORVETTE by STERLING MODELS


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Old May 01, 2009, 01:56 PM
Chris Craft Corvette
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Thanks Woody Bob. I think that the building aspect is the part of this hobby that I find the most enjoyable and besides I have a Sterling Century Sea Maid waiting on me and another Sterling 30" Chris Craft cabin cruiser that will probably wind up on E-bay.
The first picture is the drive train installed and ready to be fiberglassed in place. Sorry about the blurriness-I am still learning with the camera.
The second picture is the new floor for the motor compartment which is fiberglassed in place and sealed with a little foam under it. You can see the foam installed under the forward section of the main cabin and in the entire under deck front cabin area. This stuff is a little spooky and great care needs to be exercised when using it. [You might want to opt for the low expanding foam, it would be safer.] If you get it in a tight area it can acually push your hull apart. Put a very small amount in and let it expand overnight. You'll be surprised how much it expands. It dries hard and can be shaped. It will make the boat stronger and acts as floatation. It also will cancel the drumming resonance from the hollow hull so that the boat is quieter.
In the third picture you get a better view of the forward cabin full of foam.
This is as full as I was comfortable installing the expanding foam. The brass tube I'm using as conduit for the wire for the bow light. Since this compartment will be sealed, I won't be able to get into it to replace the wire if the need ever arises, so the conduit will allow a new wire to be installed if that becomes necessary.
The fourth picture is a photo of a photo album. [deja-vu all over again ] I am keeping a photo record of the build along with written work descriptions beside each photo and a record of the hours spent to that point. If this model gets handed down from generation to generation, each one should know that it wasn't just bought at the store, but was built with a great deal of time and care involved, and I think the photo journal will help them understand the work involved and be as interesting probably as the boat itself.
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Old May 01, 2009, 02:47 PM
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I think you are doing a great job on this one. I have to agree regarding the building being a great phase of the hobby. Plus you get to choose the level of detail and the materials you will use from the start, not trying to improve on someone else's work.

I was particularly interested in the Mt Washington (renamed on the model for sale) on that site, as there is one in the loft of my garage. A look at the interior looks like the builder has "cheated" with a prop shaft an dmain propulsion motor and a smaller motor/gear drive propelling the paddles for show.

Pete G.
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Old May 01, 2009, 04:10 PM
Chris Craft Corvette
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United States, SC, Charleston
Joined Mar 2006
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Hi Pete,
Speaking of names--since I live in Michigan and since I love these old mahogany boats, I've named my Chris Craft-----"Cabin Fever". What do you think?
Dick
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Old May 01, 2009, 04:28 PM
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Valencia, CA
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Sounds great to me!!! Have some friends in Oregon who felt the same way about the rain the first year they lived there. After that, they just learned to send the kids outside to play in their raincoats.

I lived near Buffalo, so I appreciate the snow refrence. The spring rains were the big fun though, because they would flood our back yard and I could run my boats without being confined to the bathtub!

Pete G.
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Old May 06, 2009, 08:23 PM
Chris Craft Corvette
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United States, SC, Charleston
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I selected my motors. I'm going to have counter-rotating props with the top of each prop turning outboard. I think this is correct. I saw it on someone else's thread. I have lived near Ed Hughey, the famous and extremely competitive electric boat racer [ over 40 world records in a 3 year period ] so I called him and we talked. I told him what I was doing and that I would like the props maximum rotation to be about the same as the full size boat. I have no idea why I wanted to do this other than it seemed like a good idea.
Ed suggested a 2 1/2 to one gear reduction unit with s 24 turn motor. I think it is a 500 size. His gear reduction unit puts the u-joint connection down low which is good because the Mack drive shaft is low. Ed was extremely helpful and very easy to work with.
I had to reverse my positive and negative leads on the counter-rotating motor and change the timing per Ed's instruction on that motor.
The next step will be motor moounts
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Old May 14, 2009, 04:07 PM
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color matching...42'Corvette

Don Guggemos here...I'm ready to paint my 53yr. old Corvette "Odyssey" ( I thought that would be a good name for a boat it has taken me this long to finish) I went to a friend (an auto/body guy) to get the "white" for the hull and the "bronze" for the bottom. He ask what shade of white or can you get me a mfg code # for both colors?...Help...

donhelen@tds.net
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Old May 14, 2009, 04:13 PM
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color matching...42'Corvette

Sorry, I posted this 2X
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Old May 14, 2009, 05:14 PM
Chris Craft Corvette
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United States, SC, Charleston
Joined Mar 2006
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I'm not sure what the correct way of designing and building motor mounts is, but this is how I did it. First of all I decided to use maple for the mounts. It is one of the most dense woods commonly available. That's why it's used on bowling alleys and gym floors. Also, I happen to have some. I ripped it to 1/2" thick. The next step was to find the angle of the driveshaft to the floor of the motor compartment. To do this I made two wedges out of balsa. Each of them is cut on an angle less than the angle of the driveshaft to the floor of the motor compartment. Slide them under the driveshaft and using your fingers hold them together and slide them to fill the angle and space between he driveshaft and the floor. Carefully put a drop of CA glue on the joint to hold them together. When the glue has cured [seconds ] remove the glued together pieces. This is your pattern for the angle of the motor mounts. You can approximate the location of the motor by a trial fitting and trim excess material. Leave yourself enough material on the mounts to slide the motor up or down to fit the u-joints properly. Repeat this operation for the other driveline. It should be the same or extremely close.
For the next step, I used a short section [ 1" to 1 1/2" ] of brass tubing that fits tightly over the driveshaft and the shaft of the motor. These two are connected with the brass tube and the wedges of maple that I cut are slid under the motor mounts until the motor is resting completely on the mounts and not being supported by the brass tube. This is where the mounts are to be glued. Accuracy here is important. The less horsepower that goes into friction means longer run times, higher speeds, and longer life for the drivetrain.
I used CA and baking soda to glue the mounts. I then screwed them using one small screw in each mount. Then when fiberglassing the floor into the hull, I used some fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin to make sure they were not going to come loose. This is a little extra work, but it's still easier than doing it twice. Repairs never look as good as the original work.
In the next installment, I will go over installation of the propeller, strut and motor itself.
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Old May 14, 2009, 05:59 PM
Chris Craft Corvette
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United States, SC, Charleston
Joined Mar 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Guggemos
Don Guggemos here...I'm ready to paint my 53yr. old Corvette "Odyssey" ( I thought that would be a good name for a boat it has taken me this long to finish) I went to a friend (an auto/body guy) to get the "white" for the hull and the "bronze" for the bottom. He ask what shade of white or can you get me a mfg code # for both colors?...Help...

donhelen@tds.net
Hi Don,
I don't know what colors Chris Craft used. I picked colors that looked
"right" to me. Pure white is a little blue in some lights, which I don't care for myself. In homebuilding when we want a "pure" white that doesn't come off blueish, we add a shot of umber tint. Umber is a dark brown that when added in very small quantities to pure white eliminates the blue tint, but it still looks like its a pure white. This was my goal. A white color chart would help and then get a sample of your choice and put it on something to see if you like it. For the bottom, I can give you what I used to get the color that looks right to me. I mixed several of Tamiya's acrylic enamels [ bronze, dark bronze, copper and a flattening agent and thinner for spraying ] until it was what looked like bottom paint that I have seen frequently on full size boats.
I hope this helps. Dick
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Old May 25, 2009, 02:03 PM
Chris Craft Corvette
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United States, SC, Charleston
Joined Mar 2006
211 Posts
Now that the stuffing boxes for the driveshafts are installed per Mack Products instructions, it's time to install the struts and the motors. I think some of the thrust generated by the propellers pushes against the struts, so I'm going to try to make them as strong as possible. The hull was marked earlier for the strut locations and the struts were used to help locate the driveshaft stuffing box location and installation. I mixed up some bondo and put it on the hull under where the struts would be mounted. I then greased the bottom of the struts, slid them down the driveshaft until they compressed most of the bondo out and aligned the strut with the marked location. When dry, small pilot holes were drilled for each of the 4 mounting holes for the struts and 4 screws installed in each. Now I installed a nylon washer over the driveshaft and against the rear of the strut. This should act as a sacrifical thrust washer. The drive dog, propeller and lock nut are now installed. With the driveshaft assembly pushed against the strut, we now know how far the driveshaft sticks out of the stuffing box in the motor compartment. With that information and the U-joints we can locate the motors.
The U-joints have 2 set screws on each end and I had already ground 2 corresponding flat spots on the driveshaft and on the gear box output shaft.
Install the U-joint on the driveshaft and the output shaft of the gear box. Leave a very small space for movement and expansion. The motor can now be screwed to the mounts.http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newre...=1&p=12243658#
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