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Old Mar 01, 2012, 10:44 AM
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Joined Apr 2007
315 Posts
Hi Rich, Thanks for the congrats. It has been a challenge. I did some more flying today, and figured out that I needed some more aft tilt on the rotor. It climbs much better now and requires less throttle. The single rotor autogyro is a bit more difficult to keep oriented properly, but practice makes perfect and I hope to spend some more time in the air tomorrow. Happy Landings !!! Charlie
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 03:55 PM
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Joined Apr 2007
315 Posts
Hi Gang, More fun flying today and more fine tuning of the three-channel autogyro. I started last night by adding more rudder area while lowering the overall profile of the vertical stabilizer for better rotor clearance. I also bent the landing gear 3 inches rearward. The improvements resulted in easier control, better climb and the ability to use low rate for rudder/elevator control. There is good stability in the turns. I must say that it feels good to fly a gyro again. I hope that more of you will try a RET version of the AG3-2-40. Save the extra servo for a single-channel project !!! Who else is still flying one of these floaters ?? Let's hear from you guys (and gals) !!! Charlie
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 05:50 AM
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Joined Mar 2012
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My first monotwirl!

Hello, I saw this thread and I decided that I had to build Garys amazing gyro.
It is my first autogyro and it was so fast to build! Mine took just 3 days and about 12 hours of active work to complete (the result may not be beautiful but Im confident it will fly well)

Maiden will hopefully be later today.

Heres what it look like.
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 12:22 AM
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Joined Apr 2007
315 Posts
Hi Ostberg, I was wondering how you fared with your maiden flights. I've been having fun with my 3-channel version of the AG3-2-40. I am building another similar copter, while incorporating more "theoretical improvements" The original fuselage was getting a bit "Swiss cheesed" and banged up after several battery relocations and pilot miscalculations . Let's hear of your successes !!! Charlie
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 09:01 AM
Wyatt Earp
USA, AZ, Kingman
Joined Jun 2008
24 Posts
Newbie to Autogyros

I've always been fascinated with autogyros but have never had any success flying one. This design has piqued my interest once again and the build is underway! I have read this thread several times and only have one question. I only have 6mm EPP at hand for constructing the hub and rotor blades. I do have 2mm carbon fiber rod ordered and on the way for use as leading edge material. I do realize the thicker material will need to be shaved down to maintain the angle for the rotor shims. Should I just wait and order some 3mm stock before proceeding any further on the build?
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 09:34 AM
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Joined Apr 2007
315 Posts
Hi Branded, I have a feeling that the 6mm would be too rigid......but it would be an interesting experiment. The 3mm is flexible, but also rather fragile and easily damaged or distorted. A more durable material would be a plus. I try not to land on my rotor but it happens Keep in mind that the (proposed) heavier (6mm) blades may affect thrust line requirements, especially on a lightweight model such as this. Happy Landings !!! Charlie
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 11:41 AM
Wyatt Earp
USA, AZ, Kingman
Joined Jun 2008
24 Posts
First of all, thank you very much for the quick reply Otto. I think I'll follow your advice. After all, they were designed and tested to plans specifications. Why toss in more unknowns at a first-time AG flyer! I'm just impatient at times. I'll get some 3mm stock on the way. In the mean time, I think I'll try and devise a way to shave my 6mm material down to 3mm. I'm sure I'll be landing on my rotor more once! Maybe I can kill two birds with one stone by conducting my first test flights in the back yard (got a few weeds starting to crop up on me!) Thanks again for all your help.
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 08:18 PM
Wyatt Earp
USA, AZ, Kingman
Joined Jun 2008
24 Posts
Well, got my 3mm EPP in a couple of days ago and constructed a set of 2-bladed rotors. All went well until I taped the 2mm CF rod to the leading edges of the blades. The blades now look like they have washout at the tips, along with a few whoop-de-doos in the center sections! I'm using Scotch brand Extreme tape. Real pliable, sticky stuff with a filament weave. I weighted the blade down first (with a 48" aluminum ruler) to make sure it was perfectly flat and edges were straight, then applied the tape to one side. I then removed the ruler, and carefully worked the tape over to the other side of the blade. Anybody have any idea what I'm doing wrong?
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 11:07 PM
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Hi Branded, Hard to say what went wrong, but I can let you know how I did my blades. First of all, I had a helper on hand to assist. I placed the depron blades on a flat surface (on wax paper) and tack glued the carbon rods in place at six spots. Then (keeping the blade flat) the helper and I carefully applied clear packing tape to one side, an inch or so short of the inner edge to leave room for hub assembly. If you have to redo a blade, the cheap Dollar Store clear packing tape can be lifted and repositioned with some care and effort. We carefully folded it over and the excess was trimmed off the tip. The plan calls for a 3mm shim block to be glued to one side of the blade, but I glued a block to each side of the blade, opposite from each other. This allows the hub plates to sit properly and more squarely than one block per blade would have. The blades were assembled to the hub after the carbon rods were taped in place. I also used 6mm hub plates (more or less square) for extra strength. I hope this information helps. I have upgraded to a Park 340 (1700KV), 20 amp ESC and a 2S 850mah Lipo, so my ship is now weighing in @ 9 oz. Flight duration should be increased. I hope to test fly this new power combo first thing in the morning. I will post the results tomorrow. Good luck with the blade/hub construction, Branded !!! Charlie
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Old Apr 13, 2012, 08:29 AM
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United States, UT, Marysvale
Joined Aug 2004
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I wonder how this design would adapt to micro size?
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Old Apr 13, 2012, 09:55 AM
Wyatt Earp
USA, AZ, Kingman
Joined Jun 2008
24 Posts
Thanks Charlie, I think I'll disassemble the 2-rotor hub and try the cellophane tape. Good idea with the dual shims! That method not only gives you more positive positioning, but gives you more glue area under the upper hub. Anxious to hear how the 6mm hub plates work for you. I still have the 3-bladed rotor ready for the maiden as soon as the weather cooperates. Steady winds at 25-30 mph, with gusts to 60! I've set the gyro up with a 1200Kv BW, 3S 460 mah battery and a GWS 9040 prop. Esc is a 20-amp Power Up from Heads Up RC. Thanks again for the advice and looking forward to your flight report with your new setup! - Wyatt
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Old Apr 13, 2012, 10:04 AM
Wyatt Earp
USA, AZ, Kingman
Joined Jun 2008
24 Posts
Had one more question that I forgot to add in my previous post. Has anyone ever tried applying a KFM airfoil to autogyro blades? Just wondering ...
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Old Apr 13, 2012, 10:50 AM
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Joined Apr 2007
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Hi Wyatt, I have used flat non-airfoiled blades on all my successful gyrocopters, R/C, free-flight, and control-line. The airfoil is not that important on models under 2 lbs. This model floats nicely with the flat blades, especially at 40" rotor span. You may want to use a 8 x 4.3 Slow Fly with the 3S. I was flying my 1380KV Park 300 on a 3S battery with an 8 x 4.3 prop, and decided to try a 9 x 4.7. Within two minutes the motor burned out. It operated fairly hot but reasonable with the smaller prop. This is my first real electric project, and I am amazed how fast the burnout occured. My flights this morning were a success. The Park 340 barely got warm after a five minute flight using the 8 x 4.3 GWS Slow Fly. The 3-channel control is working great. There is a slight tendency to fall out of a right-hand turn if sufficient up-elevator is not used. Very manageable. I have no rotor side tilt on this model, and a small amount of right thrust or right rudder trim will easily compensate for the motor torque. This is a fun model, easy to build and flies great. I highly recommend this model. The 6mm hub plates give more support to the rotor bearing, and the extra weight is negligible. I am having fun !!! Charlie
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 09:30 PM
Wyatt Earp
USA, AZ, Kingman
Joined Jun 2008
24 Posts
Well, finally had a chance today to fly this little autogyro. Despite all my doubts, things went fairly well! I mostly used rudder, making shallow turns. Toward the end of the flight, I cautiously used aileron (head tilt) to try and get a feel for it. You were right Charlie, very manageable. I flew with the 6mm thick rotors (3-bladed hub) and it seemed to do fine. I did notice some coning, but am sure the 3mm blades would flex more. Another thing I noticed was it didn't seem to pick up much speed between half and full throttle. Maybe the thicker blades are creating more drag. A second attempt ended by trying to pull it off the ground with insufficient rotor speed. After some minor repairs and a couple of mods she'll be ready to go again. Will build a 3-bladed hub using 3mm blade stock and see if it makes much difference. Can't wait to get some more stick time with this neat little autogyro!
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 07:57 PM
Wyatt Earp
USA, AZ, Kingman
Joined Jun 2008
24 Posts
Mods are all done and she's ready for another test flight tomorrow morning. Mods included an additional layer of blue-cor on each side of the tower, extending all the way to mid-fuselage. Plenty stiff and eliminated the need for carbon fiber reinforcement. The Tyvek hinge has been replaced with 3 sections of 1/8" brass tubing. I used a 1-inch piece of tubing for the upper section and split the difference on the ends for the lower section. All tubing was overlayed with fiberglass cloth and epoxy. A piece of music wire serves as the pin, which is bent to the same rake as the leading edge of the tower. A piece of tape holds in place once it's inserted through the tubing. Bit of overkill and a little added weight, but gives me more peace of mind! Will post flight results tomorrow.
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